I've recently noticed that the "key" icon on the dash flashes for a while before detecting my key, however today it failed completely. I fortunately had read somewhere that you can remove the ignition switch cover and insert the physical key once the key is removed from the key fob. PHEW the car is still drivable!
So its time to replace the CR-2032 button battery, any tips eg will I need to get the key re-coded?? I couldn't find the info I previously read about the 2010 iMiEV keyless system.
i-MiEV 2010 Keyless battery dead
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Last edited by zzcoopej on Tue, 18 Oct 2016, 10:55, edited 1 time in total.
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No just replace the battery. It will work fine...
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reecho wrote: No just replace the battery. It will work fine...
Cool, thanks. I'm really surprised the physical key alone works, as it implies there is no immobilizer which I thought was standard on all cars in the past 10yrs or so?
Last edited by zzcoopej on Wed, 19 Oct 2016, 01:07, edited 1 time in total.
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> I'm really surprised the physical key alone works, as it implies there is no immobilizer which I thought was standard on all cars in the past 10yrs or so?
What good would a key be if it didn't work? I though immobilizers either worked via keys that have built-in circuitry, or - well I'm not sure how else they'd work.
I do know that proximity keys like the iMiev's work differently than the usual remote/keyless entry systems. This makes them more functional and also more expensive to reprogram.
But any battery-operated unlocker needs a backup that works unconditionally.
What good would a key be if it didn't work? I though immobilizers either worked via keys that have built-in circuitry, or - well I'm not sure how else they'd work.
I do know that proximity keys like the iMiev's work differently than the usual remote/keyless entry systems. This makes them more functional and also more expensive to reprogram.
But any battery-operated unlocker needs a backup that works unconditionally.
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This is similar to a thread back in 2014 - here.
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bmscott wrote:What good would a key be if it didn't work? I though immobilizers either worked via keys that have built-in circuitry, or - well I'm not sure how else they'd work.
I once had a Daewoo with an immobiliser built into a lump on the key, it used a close proximity energiser coil to run the onkey chip (a bit like Tap n Go credit cards). We had 2 keys and only 1 immobiliser, so I broke the "chip" off the key and stuck it to the steering column so both keys would work. The car was crap so it wasn't getting stolen anytime.
The key in the Mitsu Outlander PHEV is identical in appearance to the iMiEV one, however it must have an immobiliser chip as there is a place in the dash you insert the key if the key battery is flat.
Last edited by zzcoopej on Wed, 19 Oct 2016, 07:49, edited 1 time in total.
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Johny wrote: This is similar to a thread back in 2014 - here.
Thanks for that, I'd missed that thread. That confirms there is no immobiliser in the 2010 iMiEV so any "locksmith" can steal it.
Last edited by zzcoopej on Wed, 19 Oct 2016, 07:50, edited 1 time in total.
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My understanding is the Australian ones had to be fitted with an immobiliser to be registered, but it is separate to the keyless entry system. That blue flashing led is associated with it. It seems like it isn't activated unless you lock the doors with the button on the remote key.
I have a 2007 delica with apparently the same keyless entry system. That will start with the physical key if the remote battery is flat, but the remote needs to be physically there attached to the key, so presumably a proximity type system.
I have a 2007 delica with apparently the same keyless entry system. That will start with the physical key if the remote battery is flat, but the remote needs to be physically there attached to the key, so presumably a proximity type system.
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mikedufty wrote: That blue flashing led is associated with it. It seems like it isn't activated unless you lock the doors with the button on the remote key.
This is probably the answer, we leave our iMiEV unlocked in the garage so I guess I didn't need to "deactivate" the immobiliser with my dead key. PHEW!
mikedufty wrote: the remote needs to be physically there attached to the key, so presumably a proximity type system.
That's definitely not the case with the iMiEV as I've been driving it 2 days with only the physical key, the "black bit" is back home on my desk so definitely not needed.
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Got 2 replacement Maxell CR2032 for $2.49 inc postage and I've been back up and running for a week or more now. Cheap fix, if only they were all that easy & cheap.
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