I have a Zilla 1K with a hairball2. I got it because I ordered a Synkro controller from EVcomponents in the US and when they could not deliver they sent a Zilla intstead.
I cannot get it to work and the factory and Evcomponents are not responding to emails. The manual and FAQ site are not very helpful. I am hoping there may be an 'expert' somewhere else.
Here is the problem.
I have it wired up as per the simple diagram in the manual except no speed sensor.
When I put power to the key input the error light comes on together with the check engine and check battery lights
When I put power to the start the precharge light comes on for a while then the error light, and check engine light come back on. After a few seconds the battery light comes back on.
I have hooked my laptop to it and get the state as 1312 - waiting for start
There are 2 errors
1141 - main contactor high resistance
1241 - not shown in the manual
I changed the main contactor for a new one - no change
I have checked the wires to the contactor a hundred times
Any help out there???
Error Codes for the Zilla
Error Codes for the Zilla
Hi AirAg,
Ok, let's take the errors one at a time:
1141 main contactor high resistance
The Zilla thinks that the contactor is not contacting.
Do you have the sensor wires connected to each of the high voltage terminals on your contactor?
Do you have 12v signal out of the Zilla connected to the 12v part of the contactor?
Does the contactor go "clunk" when you turn the key?
Does the contactor go "clunk" when you wire it direct to a 12v battery?
Ok, let's take the errors one at a time:
1141 main contactor high resistance
The Zilla thinks that the contactor is not contacting.
Do you have the sensor wires connected to each of the high voltage terminals on your contactor?
Do you have 12v signal out of the Zilla connected to the 12v part of the contactor?
Does the contactor go "clunk" when you turn the key?
Does the contactor go "clunk" when you wire it direct to a 12v battery?
- AirAg
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Error Codes for the Zilla
EClubman wrote: Do you have the sensor wires connected to each of the high voltage terminals on your contactor??
Yes and I also changed this to shielded cable in case it was a signal thing
Yes. I check this when going through the start sequence and no voltage ever goes through this wireEClubman wrote: Do you have 12v signal out of the Zilla connected to the 12v part of the contactor?
No.EClubman wrote: Does the contactor go "clunk" when you turn the key?
YesEClubman wrote: Does the contactor go "clunk" when you wire it direct to a 12v battery
I googled the error code and I have also received an email from Otmar. It seemd that it is either the signal wire from the main contactor or the contactor driver in the hairball is shot. I suspect the second. The snubber diode was always on the contactor coil so not sure what has happened.
Can this be repaired in Australia? Does someone do an exchange service or supply parts?
Peter
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Error Codes for the Zilla
Otmar from Cafe Electric has been on to me again and he diagnosed a blown main contactor driver in the hairball.
He gave me instruction how to fix it and when I pulled the cover off I could see he was right. It has a big hole in the side of it. He says a missing snubber diode ( I have one on there) or a short to the main contactor coil. (more likely)
Thanks for the reply Eclubman
He gave me instruction how to fix it and when I pulled the cover off I could see he was right. It has a big hole in the side of it. He says a missing snubber diode ( I have one on there) or a short to the main contactor coil. (more likely)
Thanks for the reply Eclubman
Peter
Error Codes for the Zilla
If anyone knows what goes on inside a Zilla, it is Otmar
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Error Codes for the Zilla
The snubber diode could be backwards. Wires across a battery will demonstrate this with a release of smoke. Also, if you see a big spark when disconnecting the contactor, there is a problem with the diode.
The DC resistance of the coil should be several (maybe dozens of) ohms.
Cheers
The DC resistance of the coil should be several (maybe dozens of) ohms.
Cheers
Last edited by bga on Sun, 10 Oct 2010, 13:47, edited 1 time in total.
It's not the end of the world, but I can see it from here.
- AirAg
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Error Codes for the Zilla
The snubber diode you get with the kit is supposed to be not polarity specific. My local techo has verified this.
I fail to see how it is the snubber diode because this has all happened on initial startup. The contactor has not yet been pulled in or released by the hairball. It is still a virgin! I have tested it of course but removed the wire from the hairball to do so.
The only thing is Otmar said it could be a shorted wire to the contactor coil which is possible but I am pretty sure everything was wired in place before I first applied power. I rekon I might have got it from the supplier in this condition.
I fail to see how it is the snubber diode because this has all happened on initial startup. The contactor has not yet been pulled in or released by the hairball. It is still a virgin! I have tested it of course but removed the wire from the hairball to do so.
The only thing is Otmar said it could be a shorted wire to the contactor coil which is possible but I am pretty sure everything was wired in place before I first applied power. I rekon I might have got it from the supplier in this condition.
Peter
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Error Codes for the Zilla
Have you fixed it yet Peter?
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Error Codes for the Zilla
I burnt out my contactor driver once because the path between dc-dc and 12v battery had lower resistance than the direct connection.
so the contactor driver saw the full 35A output from the dc-dc, until long past it smoked.
just another way to burn them out.
Matt
so the contactor driver saw the full 35A output from the dc-dc, until long past it smoked.
just another way to burn them out.
Matt
Matt
2023 BYD Atto 3 - 21k km
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2023 BYD Atto 3 - 21k km
2017 Renault zoe - 147'000km
2012 Leaf - 101'000km - soon to be trialing a booster battery
2007 Vectrix - 197'000km (retired)
2007 Vectrix - 50k km