jonescg's eCRX build thread

[coulomb]

I suspect the AVC2 relay will not handle enough current for the "ignition" switch. They look way too small to house a beefy relay. So I think you'll need an external beefy relay there.

[jonescg]

Yeah the inverter on circuit is itself another 12 V relay, but I will also try to fire up pumps and fans, so there will need to be some additional switching power.

As for the CC/CP control, I think the charge point will override the CAN signal. But I need the CAN signal to define the maximum charge voltage.

[jonescg]

Slightly more detailed wiring diagram where I make use of the AVC2 to ensure I can't drive off while I'm on charge AND still run the coolant fans and pumps while it's on charge. That clever little OR gate.

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[jonescg]

Tidied up the PWM controller for the fan speed control, and the fan has a tick It's internal to the motor it seems.

Still, one of hundreds of little jobs done with a little bit of available time.

[coulomb]

the fan has a tick

I don't think you'll notice it from inside the car.

But you'll know it's there

[jonescg]

It will be noticeable from outside the car when it's on charge in the carport though... Hopefully it corrects itself eventually.

[brendon_m]

Does it tick in both directions? Some of those motors aren't meant to turn backwards

[jonescg]

I'll have to check, but blowing probably isn't the worst outcome since most of the time its only running when its stationary.

[jonescg]

Thanks to @Scotty T the inverter has arrived! I've got some spare Tyco AMP connectors for the signal wiring but I might need to find some new nickel plated cable glands.

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[jonescg]

Since nothing was open today, I spent much of it in the yard working on garden beds. But when I ran out of 120 mm bolts I had to turn to the CRX project...

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Decided to start working on a subframe to mount all the hardware on. The triple stack of chargers will take up a lot of room, so I need to put them at the back and as low as pratical. However I'm also at risk of making other parts inaccessible, particularly the diff/reduction oil filler. So the stack will have to go to the middle a bit to leave space.
I found the DC/DC converter can probably mount low on the RHS chassis, next to where I've mounted the PWM controller. Not super elegant, but well out of the way.

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[jonescg]

Silicone hose reducers arrived from the UK. These drop 32 mm to 19 mm. If I'd known you could get them in black it wouldn't look so naff...

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[jonescg]

Tell you what, these Bosch electric water pumps have to be the most awkward things to mount anywhere. They have a specific orientation (in and out) so they're not symmetrical, neither do they have a useful flange or mounting hole. You need to use a large hose clamp and a metal L-bracket, and even then it's not always in the right spot...

[T1 Terry]

But think of the extra performance and street creed the blue ones will add to the build
I went with the blue ones to make up the reducers for the 6.8ltr V10 air intake because the original was NLA, it goes great now I only got one of them in blue because the performance upgrade might have been too much ..... to give an idea of the intake diameter, the radiator hoses are 40mm inside diameter

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T1 Terry

[jonescg]

I decided to put the output of a single EWP into the bottom of the radiator, which calls for the 90 degree reducer. It means I need another 90 degree reducer which I didn't buy... sigh. Trying to avoid too many fittings and hoseclamps but it's a bit tough with custom jobs.

[jonescg]

New hose fittings are on their way. Looking neat is a big deal with this conversion I think.
I tried to find some M25 cable glands made from nickel plated brass, but had no luck. So I just used the nylon ones and they look OK.

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On the weekend I'll build a rectangular frame that goes around the whole motor assembly, as low as practical and mounted by the bushings visible where the original left and right engine mounts were. This should provide enough vibration damping to be a bit kinder to the parts mounted on it too. The whole shelf needs to be as low as possible, because the charger stack coolant will be higher than the cap of the radiator otherwise. I guess I can always mount the overflow tube and reservoir a bit higher too, but that's a bit of a bandaid solution.

[jonescg]

Another fun project is the blower fan speed control. I wanted a potentiometer (aka knob) which had an on-off switch at the far left hand end of its rotation. Turning it clockwise would click the switch on, and turning it would cause the fan to speed up to full speed. The intention is to ensure that the AC compressor and the heater core cannot be activated unless the fan is in motion - lest the evaporator unit freeze up or melt down, respectively.
The trouble is, the only potentiometer I found with a switch was a log pot. After turning on, the fan will not spin unless it gets to half way, and from half way to 3/4, it does all it's range to full speed. So, yes, it's adjustable, just not very adjustable. I can't really 'linearaise' the pot so it's more or less going to remain as a switch.

[Godoh]

There are some linear pots around with switches.
try this link
https://littlebirdelectronics.com.au/co ... r-w-switch

good luck
Pete

[jonescg]

Thanks mate, order placed . I think I'd seen them before but held off until I had a larger order to make it worthwhile.

Actually I can use the double gang pot to adjust the compressor speed too!

[Godoh]

Another supplier that I used to get a lot of gear from when I was doing repair work is WES components in Sydney. They are also known as Wagner Electronics.
They want you to make and account usually but they have a huge range of parts.
I had a look they have linear switch pots too.
Pete

[jonescg]

That's where I got my log pots .
I probably didn't look as hard as I could have.
Meanwhile today I got some essential 12 V wiring done; headlights and blinkers, windshield wash pumps and grounds.

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