AEVA Forums

Hi All,

This is my first post to this forum. I stumbled across the forum looking for software to run on a Raspberry Pi to monitor my PIP 5048MG and after perusing the forums at length I have some concerns.

Firstly I am building an off grid setup to go into a bus. The system isn’t complete yet but the purchased parts are as follows:
- MPP Solars 5048MG inverter
- Canadian Solar CS3U 360w panels STC 47v Voc & 4.97a ITC
Planning on fitting 8 panels to the bus
- I also have 4 x Mastervolt 12v 225ah batteries
- planning on purchasing a Westinghouse iGen4500 4.5kva Genset

Having read through some of the posts on here I am concerned with my ignorance of this setup and how bad it may be and was hoping I could get some feedback on whether this could work and some advice on how to limit heartbreak and problems on the road.

One particular question is around the PV strings. The MG states 415v for the 80a MPPT so what configuration should I run?

Also I realise the batteries are severely lacking but funds are hurting and those batteries came with the bus. However I am now concerned about the 64v “issue” with the 5048MG. Will I need to change my batteries?

Any help and advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Ben

Shuntmunted wrote: ↑Tue, 24 Dec 2019, 12:29
One particular question is around the PV strings. The MG states 415v for the 80a MPPT so what configuration should I run?

? It's 450 V Voc max, with 430 V max MPPT range. So 8S of those panels (i.e. all 8 in a single series string) should be fine, electrically.

coulomb wrote: ↑Tue, 24 Dec 2019, 14:07 ? It's 450 V Voc max, with 430 V max MPPT range. So 8S of those panels (i.e. all 8 in a single series string) should be fine, electrically.

Thanks for the reply Coulomb. My apologies, 430v MPPT was what I meant.

With a 48v battery system will the 64v “issue” in the MG be a problem I should address? Should I reconfigure to a 52v battery bank?

Shuntmunted wrote: ↑Tue, 24 Dec 2019, 14:45
With a 48v battery system will the 64v “issue” in the MG be a problem I should address?

No, it would only affect you if you have a lead acid battery bank. Even then, just be more careful to avoid low battery voltages.

Should I reconfigure to a 52v battery bank?

I think that you should stick to a standard 48 V nominal battery. Even 15S of LFP should be fine, since he voltage range is relatively low for LFP. [ Edit: I had LFP batteries in mind, but on re-reading your first post, I see it's lead acid in 4 12 V modules. It would not be practical to change the voltage of that battery. ]

So don't go looking to reduce your battery to one whose voltage typically sits at 52 V, which is how I initially read your question. It's a pest that batteries are nearly dead flat at their nominal voltage.

Hello,
I running inverters on 20S LTO. Is there any possible to decrease a setting 12 to 40V?

Serial command is NAK below 44V

Running on firmware 71.70.

Thanks for any suggestion.

ochyst wrote: ↑Thu, 26 Dec 2019, 19:35 Running on firmware 71.70.

Usually, the firmware version would imply a specific inverter-charger model. Unfortunately, the 71.XX firmwares are quite muddled.

Is your machine a PIP-MK (Axpert King), PIP-MG (Axpert MKS II), or other?

Does your model have the ability to go to 64 V on the bulk/absorb setting (setting 26)? If so, it will have a 1:7 transformer, which seems to mean it will cause clipping of the output at relatively high battery voltages, perhaps just under 48.0 V. That would mean changing the minimum setting to be lower would be a bad idea.

coulomb wrote: ↑Thu, 26 Dec 2019, 21:48

ochyst wrote: ↑Thu, 26 Dec 2019, 19:35 Running on firmware 71.70.

Usually, the firmware version would imply a specific inverter-charger model. Unfortunately, the 71.XX firmwares are quite muddled.

Is your machine a PIP-MK (Axpert King), PIP-MG (Axpert MKS II), or other?

Does your model have the ability to go to 64 V on the bulk/absorb setting (setting 26)? If so, it will have a 1:7 transformer, which seems to mean it will cause clipping of the output at relatively high battery voltages, perhaps just under 48.0 V. That would mean changing the minimum setting to be lower would be a bad idea.

My machine is Isolar SM II 5kW.
It have ability to charge 64V, 450V MPPT, paralel

ochyst wrote: ↑Thu, 26 Dec 2019, 22:45 My machine is Isolar SM II 5kW.
It have ability to charge 64V, 450V MPPT, paralel

I do have a firmware, version 71.71, that would appear to be suitable for patching.

But with the 64 V problem, I don't think it's sensible.

Is it possible to reconfigure your battery for 22S?

coulomb wrote: ↑Fri, 27 Dec 2019, 11:11

ochyst wrote: ↑Thu, 26 Dec 2019, 22:45 My machine is Isolar SM II 5kW.
It have ability to charge 64V, 450V MPPT, paralel

I do have a firmware, version 71.71, that would appear to be suitable for patching.

But with the 64 V problem, I don't think it's sensible.

Is it possible to reconfigure your battery for 22S?

Thanks for move my post.

Battery isn't possible to reconfigure. I running machines in offline mode with cut-off voltage 40.5V (40V is a cut-off voltage of bateries) and everything seems to be OK. So, if there any possibility to change program 12 to for example 41V, my issue will be solved. And I can connect utility to machines without any external relay.

Hello folks,

I am trying to get my head around this; I have noticed that since I added 2 more panels and got 4 new batteries my instantaneous hervest in amps has never gotten above 5amps. However when I was using 6 Panels with 2 batteries, there was a day I got 8.2amps.
Today I decided to test the 2 panels to be sure they are giving out the right voltage and everything checked out.

My question is whether this is normal behaviour with 3024 GK series; does more batteries mean lesser amperage generation? I have not gotten beyond 1.2kw with a 2kw array. I am really worried about the performance as I was generating same 1.2kw when my array was 1.5kw

Hi Friends, I wanted advice on a new inverter to buy because my opti solar 5000 brilliant creates problems for me, around the web I have seen some models of the must that have new solar and grid priority functions in the sense that if the energy solar is not enough to feed the loads the network integrates the rest of the power.
Do you know if yes what would be the model?
Thank you very much

ojeysky wrote: ↑Sun, 29 Dec 2019, 21:10 My question is whether this is normal behaviour with 3024 GK series; does more batteries mean lesser amperage generation?

You should get the same current on the panel side, but with the extra 33% total panel voltage this should result in 33% more charge current into the battery. Of course, with two battery strings, each string will see only about half of that. The PV charge power should also be 33% more than before.

Are you referring to current on the PV side, or on the battery side?

I have not gotten beyond 1.2kw with a 2kw array. I am really worried about the performance as I was generating same 1.2kw when my array was 1.5kw

It could be just that you're not getting as good insolation (sunlight "power") after the upgrade.

Can you see higher PV volts now after the extra panels are added? Your inverter's MPPT range 120 - 450 V; I can't see 8 panels exceeding 450 V.

You say you've checked the new panel output, but is it possible that they're wired in anti-series and are therefore bucking the voltage of the other 6 panels?

sasa wrote: ↑Mon, 30 Dec 2019, 06:42 Hi Friends, I wanted advice on a new inverter to buy because my opti solar 5000 brilliant creates problems for me,

We might be able to offer solutions if you provide some details.

around the web I have seen some models of the must that have new solar and grid priority functions in the sense that if the energy solar is not enough to feed the loads the network integrates the rest of the power.
Do you know if yes what would be the model?

Personally, I would not touch Must Power inverters, since they obviously copied from the Voltronic Power design.

In passing, I've noted that their hybrid models (e.g. PV1800 VHM series) have settings like setting 09 "Solar or battery energy feed to grid" (enable/disable). This presumably enables mixing of grid and solar energy, without having to switch the whole load over to the grid. I'm not convinced that this is a major improvement, and brings with it a host of regulatory problems, not to mention tripping meters when export is strictly disallowed.

ojeysky wrote: ↑Sun, 29 Dec 2019, 21:10 My question is whether this is normal behaviour with 3024 GK series; does more batteries mean lesser amperage generation?

Are you referring to current on the PV side, or on the battery side?

Am referring to the current on the PV side, before I added new panels I used to get up to 8A!see attachment) but now I get way less than that.

I have not gotten beyond 1.2kw with a 2kw array. I am really worried about the performance as I was generating same 1.2kw when my array was 1.5kw

It could be just that you're not getting as good insolation (sunlight "power") after the upgrade

.

This has lingered on for a while and this is the season I should be getting high yield as the sun rays is quite heavy this time of the year.

Can you see higher PV volts now after the extra panels are added? Your inverter's MPPT range 120 - 450 V; I can't see 8 panels exceeding 450 V.

I confirm I was getting over 260v after adding the new panels. The max I got before add the panels was 200v

You say you've checked the new panel output, but is it possible that they're wired in anti-series and are therefore bucking the voltage of the other 6 panels?

It's connected properly, hence the increase in voltage. I checked some online videos which suggests that I may be having slight shading somewhere on the panel. I will take some time off today to check that out.

@coulomb
You are right for the Q3 command, it did send out an echo and I checked what I copied to notepad from realterm and it was there.

ojeysky wrote: ↑Mon, 30 Dec 2019, 13:51 Am referring to the current on the PV side, before I added new panels I used to get up to 8A!see attachment) but now I get way less than that.

Those PV current readings are so confusing. They could be panel-side or battery-side, and they could be total or net into the battery.
I've convinced myself that the current as displayed in your photo with "INPUT" and "PV" but not "BATT" is PV-side total current. Which you'd expect to reach up to about 8 A in ideal conditions, as you've seen.

This has lingered on for a while and this is the season I should be getting high yield as the sun rays is quite heavy this time of the year.

OK. Sadly, this may be part of a problem with firmwares for various models over the last year, where solar charging is not what is expected. Sometimes it shows as dips or freezes, here you seem to just have not enough charge current. This is a theory of mine, there are indications from various places, but nothing concrete.

I confirm I was getting over 260v after adding the new panels. The max I got before add the panels was 200v

60 volts seems a little on the low side for two extra panels, but it's not inconceivable.

@coulomb

More tests, I thought I will post it here then in PM, Brief info for others,I am using a VMII-5000 inverter with a 30.46 firmware. Issue is the fans speed is high and always On in Bypass mode or in utilty stand by mode, no solar connected.

So I took a couple of pieces of paper and blocked the air intakes using a couple of n52 magnet to hold them. I then noticed the left fan (the ac side) was now pulling air from the right side fan exhaust hole, so I blocked that too with a paper, with no magnets just by negative air pressure. This could only make the temperature hit 4xc 3xc 4xc ( where x is 0 to 9 degrees celcius,I failed to copy it from terminal) with assist from a hairy dryer to warm up the small room taken from the Q1 command.

Waited for close to an hour and it was still the same.

So now I switched on the hair dryer and kept it directly in the left side intake vent area for less then a min, with low to mid temperature setting, the surface temperature of intake was to hot to touch, this increased the temperature to Q1 (GGG) 52c, (HHH) 40c and (III) 51c. At this point the DC right side fan kicked in and the left AC side fan reduced its speed( with overall fan sound decreasing), not sure whether the right DC side fan is switching on due to (HHH) hitting over 40c or (III) going above 51C. After a minute or the temperature dropped slightly, and the right DC side fan switched Off and the Left AC side fan was back to its original 57 to 60db speed.

But the Q1 field which reports 030 stayed the same no matter what i do, even when fan is off.

But from cold when both fans are off, it takes Q1 (GGG) to hit 41C to switch ON the ac side fan, and it switches off I when (GGG) temperature is 34c.

Keen observation, when left AC side fans switches off at
(GGG,HHH,III) of Q1 respectively
(034,025,037), 2min later (035,031,035), few min later (040,033,036)

The moment the Fan kicks in (041,033,041), 10 seconds later(042,032,042), sec later(042,030,042)
Few min later (038,028,040), few min later(036,026,038), few min later(035,025,037)

Fan switches off taken after 2 to 3 second (034,025,037), few second later(035,026,036).

So what this tells me is that the GGG sensor is in the middle, III sensor is near the air intake, HHH is at the bottom.
Since the moment the fan switches On, HHH sensor reading jumps up by 6c because the hot air from GGG side is being drawn downwards, while III which is closes to air intake cools,( III sensor also closely matches the outside temperature sensor from my battery monitor/shunt).

It also makes sense to flip the fans, why because after the fan switches off( notice HHH sensor reading goes down within a few seconds and III reading goes up just by natural air convection in just a few seconds, its holds true until the fan kick In)

So if I do flip the fans does the inverter do temperature compensation for battery voltage based on (III) sensor reading, because (III sensor will read higher after this fan flipping).

Also what do you think of this for 3 pin https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32883724008.html
or switch to 4 pin fan and use this version https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32973504131.html

So basically you can use your own manual speed or use the included temperature sensor, will it overrule the pip inverter?

I mean the 3 pin fans are used on inverter like VM,VMii,VMiii, aka MSE/GE,GK etc, so don't believe it doing any PWM speed control because the Q1 pwn field always shows 030 even when fans are off(00 00 01 000 051 039 048 00 00 000 0030 0000

Those PV current readings are so confusing. They could be panel-side or battery-side, and they could be total or net into the battery.

Yes indeed, though I have an external monitoring system so that makes it easier for me to know which is which. I am attaching the highest I could get today from a 2kw array. 5A is PV side while the other is the battery charging current (which is not exactly proportional since I have active load)

I've convinced myself that the current as displayed in your photo with "INPUT" and "PV" but not "BATT" is PV-side total current. Which you'd expect to reach up to about 8 A in ideal conditions, as you've seen.

Yes, that screenshot was taken on a day that I reached 8A but it was before adding new panels and batteries.

OK. Sadly, this may be part of a problem with firmwares for various models over the last year, where solar charging is not what is expected. Sometimes it shows as dips or freezes, here you seem to just have not enough charge current. This is a theory of mine, there are indications from various places, but nothing concrete..

I have been hoping this is the case, do you know where I can find latest 3024 GK firmware?

60 volts seems a little on the low side for two extra panels, but it's not inconceivable.

Actually it's not exactly 260 it's about 267v. Each of the 250w panels are rated 30v with Max being 37voc. I tested each of them and got a 33.3v so I think the voltage on the panels is fine.

Today I was only able to harvest 6kwh from my 2kw array and I feel I should get more from the setup.

aim120 wrote: ↑Tue, 31 Dec 2019, 03:39 But from cold when both fans are off, it takes Q1 (GGG) to hit 41C to switch ON the ac side fan, and it switches off I when (GGG) temperature is 34c.

From reading the firmware, it looks like in this model, heatsinks are considered too hot at 40°C and this returns to normal at 35°C.

So if I do flip the fans does the inverter do temperature compensation for battery voltage based on (III) sensor reading, because (III sensor will read higher after this fan flipping).

It seems to take the highest temperature reading of all three sensors. That should eventually sort itself out.

Also what do you think of this for 3 pin https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32883724008.html
or switch to 4 pin fan and use this version https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32973504131.html

I'd start with using a 4-pin fan and see what happens. I suspect that the PWM value will shift from 30% eventually.

Those temperature controllers are plenty cheap, but one of them is 30-50 days delivery. Groan! Also, you can only monitor one temperature, and you really need to monitor three. Plus, you won't get the instant fan boost with high loads that you probably want.

So basically you can use your own manual speed or use the included temperature sensor, will it overrule the pip inverter?

Yes, I assume so.

I mean the 3 pin fans are used on inverter like VM,VMii,VMiii, aka MSE/GE,GK etc, so don't believe it doing any PWM speed control because the Q1 pwn field always shows 030 even when fans are off(00 00 01 000 051 039 048 00 00 000 0030 0000

The minimum of 30% PWM for the fans seems to be normal, and isn't a lot of noise in most situations. It's certainly a worry if it's true that they are using 3-pin fans on a lot of models. What are you basing this on? I'm hoping they just had supply problems with 4-pin fans, and let a few (?!) units through with 3-pin till they could get the 4-pin fans back in stock.

coulomb wrote: ↑Tue, 31 Dec 2019, 08:14

aim120 wrote: ↑Tue, 31 Dec 2019, 03:39 But from cold when both fans are off, it takes Q1 (GGG) to hit 41C to switch ON the ac side fan, and it switches off I when (GGG) temperature is 34c.

From reading the firmware, it looks like in this model, heatsinks are considered too hot at 40°C and this returns to normal at 35°C.

Do you know when the right DC side fans comes on, it kicked on about when the temperature was(GGG) 52c, (HHH) 40c and (III) 51c and this cause the left Ac side fan to throttle down.
But in one of your very old posts, you said the old firmware used to be loud and it was based on temperature, while the newer ones are based on the load.

coulomb wrote: ↑Tue, 31 Dec 2019, 08:14

aim120 wrote: ↑Tue, 31 Dec 2019, 03:39So if I do flip the fans does the inverter do temperature compensation for battery voltage based on (III) sensor reading, because (III sensor will read higher after this fan flipping).

It seems to take the highest temperature reading of all three sensors. That should eventually sort itself out.

My question was does the inverter have the capability to adjust the charge voltage based on the temperature of (III sensor reading). if So when you flip the fans and when it reads a higher temperature, then it would lower the charge voltage(like it says in lead acid battery manuals).

coulomb wrote: ↑Tue, 31 Dec 2019, 08:14 Those temperature controllers are plenty cheap, but one of them is 30-50 days delivery. Groan! Also, you can only monitor one temperature, and you really need to monitor three. Plus, you won't get the instant fan boost with high loads that you probably want.

The fans run even at zero load in bypass , even in stand by mode with batteries full charged, i have no solar panels yet.

coulomb wrote: ↑Tue, 31 Dec 2019, 08:14 The minimum of 30% PWM for the fans seems to be normal, and isn't a lot of noise in most situations. It's certainly a worry if it's true that they are using 3-pin fans on a lot of models. What are you basing this on? I'm hoping they just had supply problems with 4-pin fans, and let a few (?!) units through with 3-pin till they could get the 4-pin fans back in stock.

Well its noisy at 1am at 20feet away, when the loudest sound is a clock ticking.
I am basing this on the physical appearance of the machine along with sticker on the fan. Also taking into consideration on what inverter models have people complained on fan noise. Any inverter which looks like the PIP-GE,VM2,or has a narrow body depth. etc Check the below image(image is larger then what it appears) have the same fan https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000338567246.html? ,
used by GE,VMII http://www.dwph.net/pd_fs_show.asp?id=26 , used by GK,VMIII http://www.dwph.net/pd_fs_show.asp?id=27
https://imgur.com/4yrgKOU

aim120 wrote: ↑Tue, 31 Dec 2019, 18:00 Do you know when the right DC side fans comes on, it kicked on about when the temperature was(GGG) 52c, (HHH) 40c and (III) 51c and this cause the left Ac side fan to throttle down.

It looks like fan B (I assume it's the right hand one) kicks in when the battery temperature reaches 40°C, off when it falls to 35°C (both with a minimum time requirement). Your GGG, HHH and III temperatures would be inverter, battery, and transformer respectively. So that makes sense.

It seems that whenever fan B comes on, fan A is turned off, at least temporarily.

But in one of your very old posts, you said the old firmware used to be loud and it was based on temperature, while the newer ones are based on the load.

That very old post would have referred to very old firmware. The fan speed (and here the on-off control) is one of the most changed parts of the firmware.

How old is your main firmware, i.e. what version is it?

My question was does the inverter have the capability to adjust the charge voltage based on the temperature of (III sensor reading). if So when you flip the fans and when it reads a higher temperature, then it would lower the charge voltage(like it says in lead acid battery manuals).

The charge voltage should depend on the temperature of the actual battery, which is not measured by the inverter. When I mention battery temperature, I'm actually referring to the battery-side heatsink temperature. So no, it's not going to do temperature compensation for you.

Well its noisy at 1am at 20feet away, when the loudest sound is a clock ticking.

You might need to find some very quiet fans, and silicone mounts.

I am basing this on the physical appearance of the machine along with sticker on the fan.

I don't think you can use the colour or other aspects of the fan in a photo, unless you can read the actual part number. I can imagine 3- and 4- pin fans differing by just one letter in the part number, and appearing identical in photos.

coulomb wrote: ↑Tue, 31 Dec 2019, 19:49 It looks like fan B (I assume it's the right hand one) kicks in when the battery temperature reaches 40°C, off when it falls to 35°C (both with a minimum time requirement). Your GGG, HHH and III temperatures would be inverter, battery, and transformer respectively. So that makes sense.

It seems that whenever fan B comes on, fan A is turned off, at least temporarily.

So why didn't FAN A, just spin at higher rpm, it instead switched On Fan B. My theory is based on the db measured by Fan A, its spinning at max speed based on fan datasheet db. When Fan B right hand one switches On , Fan A reduces it speed. If they are really spinning at pwm 30 speed how on earth would any one sleep if it spins at PWM100.
I will use a laser tachometer and find out the rpm.

Fan B also immediately comes "ON" , when its doing a Bulk charge, has soon as it goes to float charge, it switches off ( Fan A spins slower in Bulk Charge and faster in float charge)

coulomb wrote: ↑Tue, 31 Dec 2019, 19:49 That very old post would have referred to very old firmware. The fan speed (and here the on-off control) is one of the most changed parts of the firmware.

How old is your main firmware, i.e. what version is it?

Its a 30.46, manufactured in 2018/06. Since Fan spins fast at zero load and only turns ON if "GGG hits 041" , even in zero load or if its in float charge with inverters switch in OFF position(so no bypass or any AC output).

coulomb wrote: ↑Tue, 31 Dec 2019, 19:49I don't think you can use the colour or other aspects of the fan in a photo, unless you can read the actual part number. I can imagine 3- and 4- pin fans differing by just one letter in the part number, and appearing identical in photos.

True, but I saw repair /unboxing videos of those inverters.
This person here http://forums.aeva.asn.au/viewtopic.php ... fan#p74542 has the same fan profile as mine i.e spin for 12min even no load and his model has the same form factor design as seen in my previous post images.

Below videos are at exact time frame they show the fans or pin connectors.
Repair videos of 2424LC-MSD shows a 3 pin fan https://youtu.be/Dkp2xSbyJKs?t=2957
Video of of PIP GK models however seems to show both 3 and 4 pins fans connectors ? https://youtu.be/YJGam1C0SGA?t=55
https://youtu.be/Ab6aCSiTzio?t=260

aim120 wrote: ↑Tue, 31 Dec 2019, 22:06 So why didn't FAN A, just spin at higher rpm, it instead switched On Fan B. My theory is based on the db measured by Fan A, its spinning at max speed based on fan datasheet db. When Fan B right hand one switches On , Fan A reduces it speed. If they are really spinning at pwm 30 speed how on earth would any one sleep if it spins at PWM100.

The PWM pin is the fourth pin; your fans aren't PWMing at all. They are either full on or full off. When you see fan A decreasing in speed, I think it has to be because it's powering down, or being pulsed off for 60 or 180 milliseconds (3 or 9 ticks at 50 Hz). This pulsing is by turning off the 12 V supply, not using the PWM input.

It now looks to me that these models were designed not to use the PWM pin; quite possibly the electronics driving that pin is missing. It seems the PWM code is a left over from earlier firmware that they forgot to delete, or didn't bother. By guess is that all the Value Model series (VM II and VM III) are like this, to shave off a tiny cost of production.

coulomb wrote: ↑Tue, 31 Dec 2019, 19:49 That very old post would have referred to very old firmware.

It also referred to MKS models, which use the PWM signal.

coulomb wrote: ↑Wed, 01 Jan 2020, 08:07 The PWM pin is the fourth pin; your fans aren't PWMing at all. They are either full on or full off. When you see fan A decreasing in speed, I think it has to be because it's powering down, or being pulsed off for 60 or 180 milliseconds (3 or 9 ticks at 50 Hz). This pulsing is by turning off the 12 V supply, not using the PWM input.

It now looks to me that these models were designed not to use the PWM pin; quite possibly the electronics driving that pin is missing. It seems the PWM code is a left over from earlier firmware that they forgot to delete, or didn't bother. By guess is that all the Value Model series (VM II and VM III) are like this, to shave off a tiny cost of production.

Or is it sharing the same current from a common 12v line, by switching the fan B, the speed for fan A drops?

So that VMIII, GK videos made me look inside the vent hole and just like what I saw in those videos. The fan A has a 3 pin socket on the board, Fan B has a 4 pin socket on the board and connector, but both the fans has only 3 wires. Fan A pin in order red,yellow, black and Fan B pin in order red,yellow, missing, black.

Also saw Aishi 6800μf 63v below it was written 40/105/21 capacitors, IGBT with markings 1st row GP4063d below it IR80 below it 2p eu.

Images very blurry so I wrote it down.

@coulomb So Voltronics just rate the max voltages of battery and SCC based on the capacitor voltages value, I saw a 500v capacitor in SCC board and the inverter specs says max 500v mppt, same for the battery 63v max in spec and it has a capacitor rated at 63v.

Here is the data sheet for this capacitor, its the 63v 6800µf, LH series.
https://www.capcomp.de/fileadmin/Webdat ... Series.pdf