Outlander PHEV

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g4qber
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Post by g4qber » Wed, 23 Apr 2014, 03:14

http://www.myoutlanderphev.com/forum/vi ... .php?p=862

Circontrol wall box n outlander phev

Gabz did u put phev into b5 mode?
Last edited by g4qber on Tue, 22 Apr 2014, 17:30, edited 1 time in total.
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Gabz
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Post by Gabz » Wed, 23 Apr 2014, 03:39

I did put it into b5 mode and it didn't even try to thrown me through the front window once when I took my foot of the accelerator pedal fast.



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bladecar
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Post by bladecar » Wed, 23 Apr 2014, 04:49

Hi,
Maybe they want to be sure of the need for some brake repairs as time goes by. They make a lot of money by putting on the "the brake disks need to be replaced because they may be thinned to undersize" (to put it plainly) responsibility (and fear) on to the owner, if the owner questions the need to replace disks once one or two sets of pads get low on material.

The idea is that once, 30 years ago (1980, I'm talking), the brake pads used to squeak and the brake disks used to score, but you would machine the disks and they'd be good for another 100 000kms. Now, you're expected to replace the disks as a matter of course because the brakes are much better than then but the disks are supposedly made to wear more as part of the better-brake solution along with harder pad material. (please, anyone, feel free to comment on this view, one way or the other).

They said I should have replaced Camry front disks at 110 000 kms at the time that the original front disk pads had worn low (but not down to the metal - we were not hard on the brakes). There were no other symptoms such as squeaking or shudder of the brakes.   At the time, I was thinking that if the disks wore evenly enough to have no misbehaviour, then surely they had thinned very slightly and if that made them dangerous, then they were never made in a responsible way.

If made me wish that they charged more for cars and less for repairs. It make me think of computer printers where they give away the printer but charge a fortune and do their best to force you to buy more ink, and coerce you to buy that brand of ink online from them. Once again, I wish they charged more for the printer and a reasonable amount for the ink.

Of course, it could be that the significant weight of the vehicle means that a desired level of regeneraion is not being translated into really obvious deceleration of the vehicle and that they are at the limit of the amount of regen that the electrics can take.

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Post by mcudogs » Wed, 23 Apr 2014, 06:30

I have found that the regen breaking changes depending on whether you have applied the brakes or not. In B5 mode removing your foot from the throttle kicks in an amount of regen equivalent to heavy engine braking. If you lightly touch the brakes the regen braking increases greatly.

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offgridQLD
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Post by offgridQLD » Wed, 23 Apr 2014, 13:39

Yes stronger regen on brake tip in is a feature on the 2012 Imiev to. I think that works really well.

Perhaps a dissension was made to have less throttle off regen on the outlander in comparison to the Imiev for safety reasons. Having a car slow to fast without brake light warnings to cars behind.

That said I vote for the theory mentioned before. The weight of the car VS what the limitations are on regen charging a 12kwh battery could equate to the same energy being dumped into the battery but due to the weight of the car the braking / deceleration effect is less.

My view on regen is it's only a advantage if you were going to use your mechanical brakes anyhow. Best practice for most efficient driving is to coast where ever possible and maintain momentum, not always easy in traffic.

kurt
Last edited by offgridQLD on Wed, 23 Apr 2014, 04:00, edited 1 time in total.

antiscab
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Post by antiscab » Wed, 23 Apr 2014, 23:51

just checking - the B5 mode doesn't just rev up the engine to slow down?

just the prius does that in B mode, which is a waste of time, may as well just use the conventional brakes
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Post by mcudogs » Thu, 24 Apr 2014, 00:26

No, the engine is not connected to the wheels when in regen.

When driving in traffic I drive in braking mode and then adjust the level of regen between 0 when accelerating or coasting then progressively from 1-5 when stopping, lightly touching the brake when
I want to slow down faster. This also gives the driver behind some warning that I am stopping.

Like everything else with this car, it works very well.

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Post by g4qber » Thu, 24 Apr 2014, 03:48

interesting how the outlander still sticks with physical park brake.
most other EV manufacturers have gone with electronic park brake.

perhaps one can do J turns with the outlander.

was researching the pedestrian warning sound.
couldn't really hear it too well at Paceway mitsubishi which is on a main road; Scarborough Beach Rd.
The LEAF warning sound seems louder.

Shota the PHEV tech showed me how the headlights can be turned on via iphone.
the app also shows if a door has not been closed.

went down to the Auto Classic BMW dealership.
My specced i3 may cost close to 80k driveaway.
especially DC fast charging.
makes the LEAF a bargain at 40k.
The i3 has DAB+ and FM, but no AM.
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Post by Gabz » Fri, 02 May 2014, 03:08

mcudogs how many KW is the on board charger 10 amp pull or 15 ? or 30 ?

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Post by mcudogs » Fri, 02 May 2014, 03:55

just under 10 amps

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Post by Gabz » Fri, 02 May 2014, 14:20

mcudogs wrote: just under 10 amps


have you tried using a chargepoint EVSE or another brand ? which allow higher amps than the provided cable ?

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Post by mcudogs » Sat, 03 May 2014, 00:13

No I haven't tried that yet, I might try it on the weekend.

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Post by rhills » Thu, 22 May 2014, 09:48

Well, we've had our Outlander PHEV for a little over a week now and I'm being "reminded" to feed back my experiences to Mitsubishi. I thought I'd share my experiences so far here first.
Overall, I have really enjoyed the PHEV so far. A lot of this is to do with the fruit you get in a top of the line vehicle these days (we have the Aspire), but I also finally got to enjoy the fabled "ev grin" when I silently cruised out of the dealer's forecourt.
Anyway, notwithstanding the buzz, I've still accumulated a list of things I think could be improved, to turn a great vehicle into an outstanding vehicle. Here's the list:
Change default Braking LevelCruise Control accelerates too aggressivelyGear Shift back-to-frontInfo system: set preferred "home page"Default to "eco" modeFront parking sensors "auto off" in "AUX" mode

Commenting further on these:
(1) Default braking level: I've read comments about B5 being too aggressive, but I'm used to driving a manual and to using engine braking, so I actually prefer B5 and would like that to be the default setting. AFAICT there's no way to make the vehicle default to B5 (eg after starting, or after exiting cruise control).
(2)Cruise Control: we've owned a Golf Bluemotion for a couple of years and I find the cruise control on that vehicle seems to be designed for economy, ie it accelerates steadily. Our Outlander PHEV feels like a jet fighter taking off if you resume cruise control even 10km/hr below its set speed. I'd prefer it to accelerate more gently and economically.
(3) Gear Shifter: What's with shifting the gearstick forward to go backwards and back to go forwards? Maybe I'll get used to this, but it seems daft to me and I keep getting it wrong. OK, I understand that's how ICE Automatic shifters work and I've mostly driven manuals, but it still seems totally unintuitive to me. If you've come to the Outlander PHEV from an ICE Automatic, have you found the PHEV shifter works for you?
(4) Info system: It's a shame the Info system doesn't remember which screen I was on when I switched the car off. Alternatively, I'd like to be able to define my own default screen ("home page"). Most of the time I know where I'm driving to and don't need the navigator, which is the current default screen.
(5)Default to "eco" mode: I'd like to stay on battery propulsion for as long as possible so I usually engage "Eco" mode as soon as I start the vehicle. I'd prefer not to have to, ie to configure "Eco" mode as the default.
(6) We got the front parking sensors as an option on our vehicle and while I find them useful most of the time, they're quite intrusive at other times. In particular, if you leave the vehicle in "AUX" mode (eg to listen to the radio) while parked with your nose up against an obstacle, the front sensors scream at you non-stop. I know I can switch them off, but what is the point of them being operational when the car's traction motor is off?

Has anyone else compiled a similar "wish list"? Are any of the above actually fixable by a closer read of the manual? What do others think?

Cheers,
Last edited by rhills on Sun, 25 May 2014, 07:03, edited 1 time in total.
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g4qber
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Post by g4qber » Sun, 25 May 2014, 15:00

does the outlander come with a tyre repair kit?

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Post by mcudogs » Mon, 26 May 2014, 00:22

Yes, it comes with a compressor and a bottle of repair liquid.

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Post by T1 Terry » Mon, 26 May 2014, 00:42

rhills wrote: Gear Shift back-to-front

Commenting further on these:
(3) Gear Shifter: What's with shifting the gearstick forward to go backwards and back to go forwards? Maybe I'll get used to this, but it seems daft to me and I keep getting it wrong. OK, I understand that's how ICE Automatic shifters work and I've mostly driven manuals, but it still seems totally unintuitive to me. If you've come to the Outlander PHEV from an ICE Automatic, have you found the PHEV shifter works for you?
(Are any of the above actually fixable by a closer read of the manual? What do others think?

Cheers,

The auto shift selector is an aust design rule (ADR) thing to have all vehicles with similar gear positions when it came to automatic transmissions. Some of the early auto's had some different selector patterns and it resulted in a few serious accidents, so the design rule was introduced.

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Post by g4qber » Fri, 20 Jun 2014, 00:45

Image

economy sticker
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Post by g4qber » Sun, 29 Jun 2014, 05:36

I wonder how much it would cost to get a chademo outlander phev to aus?

The uk ver has chademo

http://youtu.be/-Wm_stGjr7k
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Post by EVtech » Fri, 10 Oct 2014, 05:12

I drive a Leaf & my wife has an Outlander so we can compare.

Outlander driven crefully gives 50 km before engine cuts in & takes 10 kWh max to charge. ie. 0.2 kWh / km

Leaf driven carefully for 100 km still has 60 km spare range & takes 12 kWh to charge. ie. 0.12 kWh / km

Outlander's A/C is belt driven and chews up juice. With A/C going and hilly / fast driving, electric-only range can drop to 30 km, but this is still perfectly adequate for most of my wife's trips so petrol engine hardly gets used.

On long trips, after battery guage reaches zero, the petrol engine runs for a few km then stops for a few km - all seamless - hard to tell if the engine is running unless looking at instruments. Fuel economy then around 7 litre / 100 km. About half of that used by our old Prado under similar service.

The Outlander handles dirt OK but we have not tested it like they did in the Australasian Safari!

http://www.mitsubishi-motors.com.au/abo ... ian-safari?

The regen braking paddles are good for going down steep hills - gives similar feel to low gear.

We bought ours with a spare wheel which is tied down in the back. Disappointing there is no spare as standard... Not good for a vehicle which should be able to go out-back.

Otherwise - runs well & the real surprise is the get-up-and-GO at 110 kph - great for passing. And the cruise control works efforlessly at that speed - no changing down a gear when we hit a hill!

John

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Post by BushBryony » Wed, 29 Oct 2014, 02:18

Anyone know how many watts the Outlander pulls when it's charging? I'm on a standalone solar system, wondering whether charging an EV is out of the question.

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Post by offgridQLD » Wed, 29 Oct 2014, 02:32

Hi BushBryony welcome to the forum.

I'm reasonably sure the Outlander is the same rate as the Mitsubishi Imiev. 2200w constant. Soft start (slowly ramps up) then sits at 2200w until its almost full and then slowly drops down .

I charge my Imiev (same charger) and I am offgrid. I run a selectronic PS1 6000w continuous inverter with 8200w of PV. Works well.

The out lander has a smaller battery then the Imiev so will take less Kwh to recharge it from empty back to full.

If your inverter hasn't got the output to cover 2200w and give you enough breathing space to run the house loads. You can get a charging cable (EVSE) that has a selector to tell the charger to charge at lower power . Something like 6 amp, 8amp, 10amp, 13amp . 1400w, 1920w, 2400w, 3200w user selectable on the plug handle.

If your interested I have a thread going (it's no one topic just a rant about but how i am getting on with our EV offgrid.

viewtopic.php?title=new-to-the-forum-ne ... 14&start=3

Kurt
Last edited by offgridQLD on Tue, 28 Oct 2014, 15:44, edited 1 time in total.

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Post by BushBryony » Thu, 30 Oct 2014, 15:06

Excellent, thanks for that! Glad to know that it's possible off-grid. We could definitely handle those kinds of loads on a good day. I'll check out your off-grid EV forum for sure.

Don't suppose Outlanders are old enough to be turning up second hand yet?

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Post by offgridQLD » Thu, 30 Oct 2014, 15:54

Having only been on the market this year there wouldn't be a lot of them. I guess there could be 2nd hand ones for sale but they would be under 1yr old.

Kurt

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Post by mikedufty » Thu, 30 Oct 2014, 17:11

I've got an email notification for 2nd hand ones on carsales.com.au. Cheapest so far has been $45,000 for "dealer near new", apart from one they listed at $15,000, which was obviously a mistake.

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Post by BushBryony » Fri, 31 Oct 2014, 14:33

Thanks for that, maybe in a year or so secondhand will be a real possibility.

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