Buying an i-Miev in Australia - different radios

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Buying an i-Miev in Australia - different radios

Post by bindi » Fri, 29 Nov 2013, 19:17

Hi,

I am looking at buying an I-miev over the next few days!!!!! It is a lifelong dream of mine to have an electric car and not use fossil fuel to drive (we have solar panels). Sooooo excited. The price has finally dropped to a point where I can afford them.

I am in Australia, and I have noticed that there are two different central stacks available in them. In one type it has a small LCD screen. In the other type it is a radio, CD player, USB input and call buttons.

What is the difference between the two? Is one better than the other?? Does the LCD one adversely affect battery power? Do they both have Bluetooth? Can I stream bluetooth audio? How about Bluetooth for calls??

If you had the choice which one would you go for?

Thanks guys and hope to join you guys as an I-miev owner ASAP!!! :)

Regards,
Belinda


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Post by Gabz » Fri, 29 Nov 2013, 19:49

the upgraded radio is an extra $2k the better radio has a gps built in and DVD.

I have basic one, it's very basic. bluetooth is crap compared to the lancer. (bluetooth audio is supported but it only supports 1 phone doesn't hotswap and has no voice recognition) the basic one I've seen in one of the work utes.

saying that is a standard double din so i'll probably replace mine with a non factory one.

none of the radios will affect your battery power as they run from the 12volt accessory battery not the traction battery.

you do want to get a 2012 I-miev over a 2010
Last edited by Gabz on Fri, 29 Nov 2013, 08:51, edited 1 time in total.

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Post by carnut1100 » Fri, 29 Nov 2013, 20:03

Second that on a 2012 if you can aafford the extra. I got a 2010 and although I don't regret it (it was a 2010 or nothing, budget didn't go to a 2012...) there are a lot of little things better on a 2012 that just add up.

Mine has premium stereo.
Not a bad unit for sure but a couple of little issues that saw it back in the dealer for remedial work.

GPS takes a long time to lock on a signal. Antenna is mounted on top of the head unit.
Mine has been relocated but is still slow to lock on and still drops out a bit.

There are no speakers in the back doors!!!
The speaker grilles are there but nothing inside.

Bluetooth......biggest problem I have had.
Paired up fine to start and streams music nicely although the metadata has never come through.
Problems began when I started transferring contacts from my phone.
After 5 or 6 it stopped transferring. I've tried impairing and re-pairing, tried another phone, deleted all contacts and tried again....nothing worked.
After that it kept dropping Bluetooth and refused to pair the last time I tried.

Dealer said they tries with four phones and all worked....I got it back and it paired ok to stream music but the phone side will not pair or connect at all.
He saidy phone might be incompatible but thats rubbish as it worked fine in the beginning.
So it's going back again shortly!
Ill keep hounding till it works....

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Post by bindi » Fri, 29 Nov 2013, 20:12

Thanks so much guys. What is the difference between the 2011 vs 2012 ones?? And how would I be able to tell?? I swear half the salesmen don't have a clue!! I saw standard used Prius v the other day and they had marketed it as an I tech one!

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Post by Gabz » Fri, 29 Nov 2013, 20:15

gear box the 2012 is D B C 2010 is D eco B

and the charge cable the 2012 has a lunch box between the plug and the car plug the 2010 is just a cable

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Post by Johny » Fri, 29 Nov 2013, 20:21

Gabz wrote: gear box the 2012 is D B C 2010 is D eco B

and the charge cable the 2012 has a lunch box between the plug and the car plug the 2010 is just a cable
What that means is the a 2010 will not charge on a public J1772 outlet. This may not matter to you if you don't intend to public charge but it's one of the major differences where personal taste doesn't come into it.

The year of manufacter should be on a sticker just inside a front door. Anyone with an iMiev know exactly where?

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Post by carnut1100 » Fri, 29 Nov 2013, 23:22

It's on one of the door pillars, think it's the left side.

Also 2010 has seven spoke wheels 2012 has 3 spoke

2012 has round cutouts for foglights in front bumper 2010 doesn't.

2012 has blacked out headlights 2010 all silver.

As above, 2010 shifter has Eco between D and B while 2012 has C in that position.


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Post by Monkeyboy » Sat, 30 Nov 2013, 01:53

G'day Bindi, I've a long history of big audio in my cars and i'd have to say the Eclipse touch screen (Higher of two available options) is the go.
I believe 2011 and 2012 are the model years you're after.
The eclipse requires acknowledgment for blue tooth and gps ever time the car is "Started", annoying but tolerable.
You could spend money on a flashier unit but for minimal gain.

I was about to spent $3k on some audio hardware(iMiev will tolerate 600w amplifier easy) but the doors, tailgate and dash will take a lot of work to silence. Instead I'm upgrading the front splits and installing rear full range speakers all driven nicely of the Eclipse in built amp.

You're right about the price of the car being right, enjoy!!

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Post by CometBoy » Sat, 30 Nov 2013, 03:07

I also remind people about the battery pack change that occurred in June 2011. Not sure of the exact date of change but here is a cut and paste from the wiki on it....

‘In June 2011 Mitsubishi announced the introduction of lithium titanate oxide SCiB battery technology for its two new models of electric vehicles, the i-MiEV and Minicab MiEV. The SCiB technology was developed by Toshiba, which stated that its SCiB batteries can withstand 2.5 times more charge/discharge cycles than a typical lithium-ion battery. In addition, recharging via CHAdeMO takes much less time than charging at the AC Level 2 rate used by most electric vehicle supply equipment (EVSE), allowing the SCiB battery to reach 80% capacity in 15 minutes, 50% in 10 minutes and 25% in 5 minutes. In terms of performance, the SCiB battery offers a higher effective capacity than a typical lithium-ion battery, which combined with more efficient regenerative charging during braking or coasting downhill, allows the SCiB battery to deliver 1.7 times the driving range per charge of a typical lithium-ion battery of the same size. Alternatively, the carmaker could install a smaller battery with less weight and keep the same range to contribute to lower the vehicle price as compared to lithium-ion batteries.’

I would check it out closer; certainly our 2013 run out model has amazing regen compared to earlier 2010 models I have driven. They were OK but the newer ones are better.

Bruce.

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Post by bindi » Sat, 30 Nov 2013, 03:30

You guys are amazing, thank you so much for the wealth of knowledge. I had no idea there was such a huge difference between the different models - will definitely be able to be more savy now in choosing which car to go with.

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Post by Hippie403 » Sat, 30 Nov 2013, 04:38

Pretty sure the SCIB battery is only available on Japanese domestic model i-MiEVs and I think they only offer it in a smaller capacity than the standard 16 kWh pack.

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Post by CometBoy » Sat, 30 Nov 2013, 04:53

Getting a bit off the radio topic but....

Thanks, I have never found a source clarifying that statement and would be interested in what actually is the story. Apparently there was a change here re the battery pack but unsure of details. Do you have more information?

Sure can’t ask Mitsi... A local dealer yesterday told a friend looking at one of the remaining i-MiEVs that the battery pack had a 10 year warranty! Be good to get that in writing!

Bruce

Update.....

I am wrong with the battery chemistry! A friend living in Japan has confirmed the lithium titanate oxide SCiB battery technology was only sold in Japan and the packs were a lower rating. Now I think about it, the nominal voltage of lithium titanate oxide is around 3 volts not 3.7 volts as per our lithium iron phosphate cells so the 88 cells would need to be lithium iron phosphate chemistry to give us our 330 volt packs – Strange the stuff you read and not question....

Bruce

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Post by offgridQLD » Sat, 30 Nov 2013, 16:13

If the Imiev you are looking at has the upgraded radio then great (it shouldn't make much difference to the price) That said its not a $2000 radio and purchasing a Imiev with the basic radio and then replacing it with a similar or better radio than the factory premium one would be $500 or so. Perhaps $1000 if you went for a big brand name.

As others have mentioned there isn't much point im putting to good a stereo and speakers in the Imiev as the foundation (doors,dash,interior trim) is a big weak link. The doors have zero sound deadening and very thin panels. It would take a lot of sound deadening and stiffening up to get good sound.By good sound. I'm not talking silly teenager night club sound. Just quality tight crisp solid sound. stereo with similar sound to a nice home stereo.

Bruce, is your Imiev 2013 manufactured date? I didn't think there were any 2013 (manufactured date) Imiev in Australia. Mine is Jan 2012 though purchased as new old stock first registered when I purchased it in July 2013.

Kurt
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Post by adelaide-ev » Sat, 30 Nov 2013, 16:15

Well, I have it in email about the 10 year battery warranty!
Most of my queries got the same clueless response.

But unfortunately this is the dealer well south of town who still thinks 28grand for a used iMiev is fair price.

So still looking too

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Post by offgridQLD » Sat, 30 Nov 2013, 16:23

$25,900 with 12 months rego and free factory floor mats. New old stock 2012 model full warranty as expected. Basic stereo white, QLD.

There were a few others sold for this price.

Kurt
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Post by CometBoy » Sat, 30 Nov 2013, 17:05

Kurt the dates are:

Built Jan 12 (as per passenger door sticker) – As you suggest

Australian Approval date (Compliance) 01/13 (as per driver door sticker)

Interesting thing is which dates the Dealer, SA Government and Shannon’s use.

- Dealer uses the Compliance date (01/13)
- SA Government uses 2013 as the ‘Year Manufacture’
- Shannon’s use 2013

All strange to me, I would have used the Built date but I guess that is not the system – just like you would when ordering spares etc.

Wow a 10 year written battery warranty! Never heard of that length of time and better than even the 8 years offered elsewhere in the world. Page 8 in the Warrenty Booklet clearly states 5 years or 100,000km commencing from the date of first registration.

Agree with Kurt about pricing....

Cheers
Bruce

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Post by adelaide-ev » Sat, 30 Nov 2013, 17:14



"Wow a 10 year written battery warranty! Never heard of that length of time and better than even the 8 years offered elsewhere in the world. Page 8 in the Warrenty Booklet clearly states 5 years or 100,000km commencing from the date of first registration."

Well I have queried if it's a special from that dealership. Trying to get the price down not so simple. Just because other dealers have doesn't mean they all will drop their price .
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Post by offgridQLD » Sat, 30 Nov 2013, 17:23

They were asking $30,000 for mine. It did take a week of haggling though.

I think were the 10 years is coming from isthe10 year drive train warranty. They all have that but only a 5 year 100k battery warranty.

Kurt
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Post by adelaide-ev » Sat, 30 Nov 2013, 17:34

"It did take a week of haggling though."
thanks for that - I am persisting.

"I think were the 10 years is coming from is the 10 year drive train warranty."

I'm sure it is, however when you ask a specific question ie how much remaining warranty on the traction battery?
and get a written reply - there is 10 years warranty on the battery from date of first registration.

So frustrating - most of them seem clueless about this particular car.

Be interesting if I get a response now I have asked how their dealership is providing the 10 years on the battery?

It was only an email reply - not in a contract, of course.
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Post by CometBoy » Sat, 30 Nov 2013, 19:32

The lack of knowledge about these little cars continues to amaze me. When my wife was test driving it before the final purchase, she was explaining to the salesman about why the interior finish was the way it was.... Remarking about the use of materials made of bamboo fiber and Polybutylene Succinate (PBS). And that it was one of the first to use this stuff. The poor salesman thought she had grown a second head!

He had little idea about ANY of the features but was a very nice guy and didn’t BS in anyway.

At the end he said he learnt so much about the EV and thanked us!!

Apart from the crazy original pricing, I think this might be another reason why EV’s are failing in OZ.

Bruce

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Post by bindi » Mon, 02 Dec 2013, 02:59

Yeah - the salesmen know even less now that they are the run out models!

I have one more question too. With power points - how beneficial is installing at 15V powerpoint??

I have a normal power point in my garage, and I was thinking that I would just use that as we have solar and I wanted to utilise that. If I installed a 15w off peak I am not sure that would use the solar power? Not really sure how it all works!

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Post by Gabz » Mon, 02 Dec 2013, 03:05

bindi wrote:
I have one more question too. With power points - how beneficial is installing at 15V powerpoint??

I have a normal power point in my garage, and I was thinking that I would just use that as we have solar and I wanted to utilise that. If I installed a 15w off peak I am not sure that would use the solar power? Not really sure how it all works!


Ok you mean 15Amps, it's a requirement if you buy a 2010. if you buy a 2012 it's not using one will ruin your house insurance, and not recommended but is sorta ok it has a 15amp plug but only is designed to pull 10amps so it won't melt anything.

if you want the cheaper off peak electricity in nsw at least your can't do it because your not allowed to have off peak connected to a power point. If you are allowed you just put 2 power points in 1 which is connected to normal power another which is connected to off peak. If you have to charge at night off peak if you charge during a sunny day normal power.

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Post by Monkeyboy » Mon, 02 Dec 2013, 12:15

Yeah, again 2011, 2012 are the models to consider.

If you work your way through the other topics on the forum you will find what you need and more but I think this will help.

I believe that a 15 Amp GPO (General Purpose Outlet)or domestic power socket is only available if you have three phase power and will only give you minimal gain (30% max) over your standard 10 Amp GPO.

Even from a 15 Amp GPO the iMiev is limited to approx. 13 Amps when charging.

Each hour of charge from 10 Amp GPO gives approx. 20 kms of travel, so if you use a 15 Amp GPO then approx. 26kms of travel per hour.

I'm in WA and have 1.5KW PV system that makes about 12KW each day.
I don't charge the car during the day because those 12KW earn me a good return thanks to gov. rebates. I charge at night when the 12 to 16 KW I need to fill the Kiev is a little cheaper.

If you buy an iMiev you will probably eventually buy another Charging cable for convenience and back up. At that point you can again consider your options.

Here in WA there are 15+ Amp public charging stations available (with free parking) but you have to buy another dedicated cable.

ChargeAmps from Europe sell an awesome cable that can charge at both 10 or 15 Amps from domestic GPO's depending on what you have available.

I carry two cables in the car, the original and one for Public Charging. I have two 15 Amp GPO's at home but don't normally use them as the 10 Amp GPO works just fine.

My Kiev came from Brisbane, demo model, 5000 k's with Eclipse sat nav. Less than $20k!

Practice you best smile and charming approach, Good Luck.

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Post by Gabz » Mon, 02 Dec 2013, 12:39

Monkeyboy wrote:
I believe that a 15 Amp GPO (General Purpose Outlet)or domestic power socket is only available if you have three phase power and will only give you minimal gain (30% max) over your standard 10 Amp GPO.


I rarely say this on the forum but this guy has no idea an you should ignore this post! the amount of phases as nothing to do with the a 15amp socket.

but yes you need a 15amp power point ring a sparkie. the cost is less than $500 if it's more ring another one. the AS/NZ 3000 wiring rules means they need to quote you for running a new cable from where your meter or fuse box is to your garage and if you don't already have a RCD they will have to fit one of those.

The only time I'm happy to see people bend the rules and use a 10amp socket is emergency charging when out then you should use a 15amp to 10amp convert that caravans use you can get them from jaycar and other auto stores for $70ish, they have built in protection to make sure you don't melt anything.

Last edited by Gabz on Mon, 02 Dec 2013, 01:43, edited 1 time in total.

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Post by coulomb » Mon, 02 Dec 2013, 13:49

Monkeyboy wrote: I believe that a 15 Amp GPO (General Purpose Outlet)or domestic power socket is only available if you have three phase power
No. 10, 15, 20, 25, and 32 A GPOs are all single phase, so anyone can have one of them installed, as long as they have a strong enough connection. For a 15 A outlet, this is practically certain.
and will only give you minimal gain (30% max) over your standard 10 Amp GPO.
Well, no. You can draw 150% (15/10 * 100%) of the power from a 15 A outlet than from a 10 A outlet. But the main point is, if you are going to draw more than 10 A from a GPO, you have to make it at least a 15 A outlet, because otherwise you could be overloading it.

Perhaps you are trying to say this: the outlet itself is capable of delivering 15 A; the 9 mm earth pin makes no difference to that. But it's what is implied behind the large earth pin that is important: it will likely have its own cable back to the switchboard, and have at least a 16 A circuit breaker to protect it.

In other words, while you can draw 15 A from a 10 A outlet with a suitable adapter cable, it's not a good idea because it is likely not designed to take this current continuously. You may overload the wiring to the socket, risking melting and even a fire, or you may end up with nuisance tripping of a breaker, possibly losing power to an essential load, like a computer or a sleep machine. It might appear to work fine once or even many times, but it could overload some time in the future when you happen to have a large load on other GPOs sharing the same wiring to the switchboard.
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