Aftermarket iMiEV battery upgrade project

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richi
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Re: Aftermarket iMiEV battery upgrade project

Post by richi »

francisco.shi wrote: Mon, 26 Jul 2021, 19:32It wasn't the gear lever because the display showed it to be on park so I guess that means it is reading the switches correctly.
Not necessarily. There are two position sensors—one at each end of the cable. If they disagree, it won't go into READY.
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Re: Aftermarket iMiEV battery upgrade project

Post by mikedufty »

I had something similar a few times, never worked out exactly what triggered it, but locking and unlocking the car again seemed to fix it. I suspect it is not due to your mods.
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Re: Aftermarket iMiEV battery upgrade project

Post by hooperg46 »

Francisco, Have you charged the 94 amp hours battery to 80 percent on the fast dc charger and what do you expect on the GOM. I want to drive back to Sydney and I need to know how much I need to charge the car. Your one pedal drive looks good but may be tiresome on a long drive. I would like to get up there and see how yours works but with the latest restrictions on travel it may be some time, but I still have to wait till Graeme gets in the new batteries to start the upgrades again.
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Re: Aftermarket iMiEV battery upgrade project

Post by francisco.shi »

I haven't been able to try the fast charger because the contactors to connect the battery to the DC port were damaged. I need to wait for Graeme to get a new set.
It shouldn't matter how the battery is charged (fast or slow charge) if it is at 80% the GOM will read around 190.
I am not sure why you think the one pedal driving will be any more tiresome than the original. At constant speed you need to press it less than the original. The one pedal driving is more of a torque command. So the more torque you want the more you press. So say if you are just want to roll you just hold the pedal to the neutral point regardless of the car speed. You really need to drive it to understand how it feels. It is very different to anything you have tried before.
On long drives you would use the cruise control instead.
If anyone in Brisbane wants to have a try and tell everyone how it feels let me know.
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Re: Aftermarket iMiEV battery upgrade project

Post by antiscab »

francisco.shi wrote: Tue, 03 Aug 2021, 20:49 On long drives you would use the cruise control instead.
you've implemented cruise control?
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Re: Aftermarket iMiEV battery upgrade project

Post by francisco.shi »

Not yet but soon. I already got the buttons on the steering wheel and wired to the ECU.
Cruise controls
Cruise controls
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Cruise control is not difficult.
The difficult part is what to do when you cancel it.
The problem is that the regen braking is very strong (90% of full torque) so if the driver presses the brake or cancel the cruise control with the button then what should the car do?
If it goes back to one pedal mode immediately it will slam on the brakes hard (not an option). The regen is strong enough and controllable enough with one pedal that you can drive the car fast without touching the brake pedal. The brake pedal literally is for emergency use only (and to get the car out of park).
If it just goes back to roll then you loose the regen braking and have to come up with a smooth way of re-engaging regen.
So the question is how to re-engage regen smoothly and safely. At the moment the best idea I have is to start increasing the regen slowly until it reaches full regen to give the driver enough time to either put the foot back to the accelerator pedal or come to a complete stop using the brake.
The biggest difficulty so far is how to do this smoothly and in a way that feels natural.
I am having a similar issue with emergency braking. If you come to a stop it is not a problem. The problem is if you slam on the brakes and then you quickly want to go back to accelerating.
During the time to go from the brake pedal to the accelerator neutral position the car is under very heavy braking (using regen)
I will probably do the control loop for the cruise control some time today because it is getting too annoying to hold the accelerator on the highway.

At the moment I am having a lot of trouble with the backlash of the transmission. It is so sloppy it feels like there is something wrong with the transmission.
The way they got it to work is to keep it preloaded at all times by always having torque on the motor and making the accelerator response very slow. When you stop or slow down the motor is always pushing because you are using the brake to stop the car.
The problem now is that when the car stops the computer tries to hold the car still (already got hill hold working) so if you are on a flat then there is no load on the transmission and the control loop goes unstable. If i make the gain low enough to not go unstable the hold is too sloppy. The plan is to have two gain settings and switch between them depending on the situation but I haven't worked out a good switch over condition yet.
Here is a video of how sloppy it is.

I then put solid bushes so I could keep working on it while Graeme gets stiffer bushes and found out that the half shafts twist a fair bit and the gears and CV joints have a lot more backlash than I expected. I didn't have this problem with the Pajero.

And I also need to get the traction control implemented too. So still a fair bit of work before it can be released.
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brendon_m
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Re: Aftermarket iMiEV battery upgrade project

Post by brendon_m »

The cruise control I fitted to my imiev has a speed limiter setting that you can turn on. You can turn on either the speed limiter or cruise control. You could maybe have a similar system on the one pedal driving, either cruise control or one pedal driving and you have to physically switch between the two.
PXL_20210804_000449840.jpg
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Also has 2 memory functions that recall set speeds which is a nice feature
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Re: Aftermarket iMiEV battery upgrade project

Post by francisco.shi »

Your control stalk looks much better than the one I have. I guess it is wireles to the control box?
I did want to add a speed limiter but don't have the buttons for the interface in the switches I got given.
The problem with the one pedal driving and cruise is the switchover under panic conditions.
So say you are driving on the highway and the car in front brakes the first thing to do is cancel the cruise control and switch to manual drive.
But then you either have no regen which means you now have to drive differently because you can not use the accelerator pedal to slow down or you give full regen and then you can drive as normal but the time between moving your foot from brake to accelerator will be under very heavy regen (and the car behind will probably run into you) unless you are very quick with your foot but it needs to be able to work safely for anyone that gets in the car.
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Re: Aftermarket iMiEV battery upgrade project

Post by brendon_m »

Not wireless, it's mounted to the column covers just below the wiper stalk.

Yeah, change over is going to be hard. Changing how the car drives mid trip is going to cause confusion no matter what you do. A slow ramp up to full regen (over maybe 10 seconds) is probably the best way as the car would just default to stopped if it gets no input and if you can't recover from disengaging cruise control in 10 seconds you probably shouldn't be driving. What do other EVs with one pedal driving do? I'd expect they rely on the adaptive cruise radar to help with the decision
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Re: Aftermarket iMiEV battery upgrade project

Post by francisco.shi »

The MG goes into full regen and it feels a little uncomfortable because it comes on quickly but it has nowhere near the amount of regen I have on the Imiev.
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Re: Aftermarket iMiEV battery upgrade project

Post by Timmytool »

francisco.shi wrote: Wed, 04 Aug 2021, 04:52 The difficult part is what to do when you cancel it.
The problem is that the regen braking is very strong (90% of full torque) so if the driver presses the brake or cancel the cruise control with the button then what should the car do?
If it goes back to one pedal mode immediately it will slam on the brakes hard (not an option). The regen is strong enough and controllable enough with one pedal that you can drive the car fast without touching the brake pedal. The brake pedal literally is for emergency use only (and to get the car out of park).
If it just goes back to roll then you loose the regen braking and have to come up with a smooth way of re-engaging regen.
So the question is how to re-engage regen smoothly and safely. At the moment the best idea I have is to start increasing the regen slowly until it reaches full regen to give the driver enough time to either put the foot back to the accelerator pedal or come to a complete stop using the brake.
The biggest difficulty so far is how to do this smoothly and in a way that feels natural.
I am having a similar issue with emergency braking. If you come to a stop it is not a problem. The problem is if you slam on the brakes and then you quickly want to go back to accelerating.
During the time to go from the brake pedal to the accelerator neutral position the car is under very heavy braking (using regen)
I will probably do the control loop for the cruise control some time today because it is getting too annoying to hold the accelerator on the highway.
Have 3 ways to get out of cruse control(CC).
1) braking, while the brake is being engaged proportional regen to match and your box uses the cars' chime to go off,
. A) if the car stops (or under ~5km/h)
. B) the accelerator matches the CC torque point
. then the chimes stops and normal throttle control is engaged.
2) apply throttle till your box uses the cars' chime to go off(use full throttle as the point),then the driver backs the throttle off till the chimes stop. At this point normal throttle is engaged aka CC off.
3) if the CC off button is used, your box uses the cars' chime to go off, when the accelerator matches the CC torque point turn CC and chime off

Resuming CC while chime is going off, if the CC activation is triggered while the chime is going off, resume CC at the car's current speed and turn off chime.

Just how I would do it to avoid undesired results, how you activate CC etc might change the procedures but.
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Re: Aftermarket iMiEV battery upgrade project

Post by francisco.shi »

I got the cruise control working.
What I do is when the CC is disengaged (by pressing the brake or the cancel button) I start ramping up the regen from a small value (about 10%) to full.
With a delay of about 2 sec to full regen it seems to be enough time to move your foot to the accelerator and control the braking.
If during the ramp up time you request less regen than what the ramp is doing it will terminate the ramp and go to full braking so if you back of quickly you have full regen.
I tried it and it seems pretty easy to deal with.
The end result is that the solution was a lot simpler than I thought.
I also start from 10% instead of zero so you know when the CC has been canceled. Otherwise you only know it has been canceled once the ramp has gone up enough that you start to notice the car slowing down.
In case of emergency brake it does not matter that the regen is coming up slowly because you have your foot on the brake already.
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Re: Aftermarket iMiEV battery upgrade project

Post by francisco.shi »

The next task now is to get traction control and antilock regen control working.
Now I need to find a safe place for some hooning. :twisted:
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Re: Aftermarket iMiEV battery upgrade project

Post by mikedufty »

Motorkhana is a good opportunity for testing traction, any road legal car eligible. Limited opportunity for tweaking between tests though as they run through pretty quickly.

https://www.hsccq.com/
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Re: Aftermarket iMiEV battery upgrade project

Post by francisco.shi »

I will probably just go to the state forest after it rains or find a bit of a grass strip somewhere.
I am starting from scratch with the traction control so it will be more like skid once or twice then 10min changing the code then try again until it either works or I have to have a rest and think of a better way.
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Re: Aftermarket iMiEV battery upgrade project

Post by francisco.shi »

A friend did a video of the one pedal driving at yesterday's EV meet up.
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Re: Aftermarket iMiEV battery upgrade project

Post by RADIOTECNICA »

Hi everyone I am a new member I write from Italy, I have just registered, I have been following you for some time, I have a Berlingo electric van like Fifurnio and I am collaborating with him in the realization of an extender, I congratulate you I see that you are very prepared
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Re: Aftermarket iMiEV battery upgrade project

Post by fifurnio »

PEUGEOT PARTNER BATTERY EXTENDER PROJECT UPDATE:
hello everyone, a few months have passed since I started my project, I have not yet reached the final goal of exceeding 200 km range, but I am getting closer.
I update you on some things I discovered: connecting the additional battery in parallel to the original one does not produce a range increase (as I had already written), I moved the connection then after the current sensor and I had a certain range increase expected (immediately the indication was unchanged but then on the way I realized that the number of km of remaining autonomy was slowly decreasing), so I was under the illusion of having achieved a result, even if partial.
Not immediately but only after several regular recharges, for a reason I still don't know I started having a charging stop about 30 seconds after connecting the Type1 cable.
I solved it by mounting a relay that restores the connection upstream of the current sensor only during the charging phase, so in the driving phase the additional battery is connected after the sensor, while during the charge it is connected upstream, for now it seems to go everything good.
I have the feeling that the autonomy indicator takes into account the variation of the battery voltage for the first part of the discharge: when the additional battery is connected the SOC goes down more slowly, this up to 50% and then accelerates the descent, as if it were to in any case, exhaust the nominal capacity (75 Ah).
The correct solution, however, involves the use of a can-can bridge, and in this period I am defining the SOC and autonomy calculation program with an algorithm that also takes into account the battery voltage at rest, as well as completing the sniffing of the can protocol with the latest information (hopefully tomorrow).
I would have found a ready-made hardware http://www.tritecnica.it/admin/uploads/ ... sheet_.pdf
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the extender, 24 10s 4p 18650 cells with four active 20s balancers
the extender, 24 10s 4p 18650 cells with four active 20s balancers
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brendon_m
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Re: Aftermarket iMiEV battery upgrade project

Post by brendon_m »

fifurnio wrote: Wed, 08 Sep 2021, 01:05
Not immediately but only after several regular recharges, for a reason I still don't know I started having a charging stop about 30 seconds after connecting the Type1 cable.
I solved it by mounting a relay that restores the connection upstream of the current sensor only during the charging phase, so in the driving phase the additional battery is connected after the sensor, while during the charge it is connected upstream, for now it seems to go everything good.

I built a range extender pack for my Outlander PHEV and faced a similar issue. What I found was if I drove the car at 100km/h (or up hills etc) the 2 packs (original and extender) would be out of balance with each other. If you left the ignition on the packs will slowly equalize between themselves but if you turn the power off immediately and connect the EVSE the car would power up, connect the 2 packs and detect power flowing from the original pack into the extender pack when it should be charging. The system would then shut down and display "charging system fault" on the instrument cluster. Curiously no fault/error codes are logged.
The fault is worse with my 6A EVSE compared to my 10A one so I suspect it's not checking the amount of current flowing, just that current is flowing in the right direction.

If you leave the ignition on for a few minutes after stopping to allow the 2 packs to equalize the car will charge fine. My solution was to set up a delay of about 10 seconds before the 2 packs linked together, this gives enough time for the charger to start putting power into the original pack before the extender pack is connected.
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Re: Aftermarket iMiEV battery upgrade project

Post by fifurnio »

I forgot to write that I had also connected the two systems with a delayed relay, but to be sure that the precharge phase was completed (the precharge relay of my vehicle is connected in the middle of the series of battery modules)
May be incresaing delay time I can semplify tthe plant.
The main way is to built a CAN-Bridge...
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Re: Aftermarket iMiEV battery upgrade project

Post by fifurnio »

I add two images from OEM electric diagrams: in my car battery is in two different boxes (BB00 and BB08)
It seems not whole bms inside battery module, only balancing devices and voltage-temperature cells monitoring, the wires who control power realays come from outside battery boxes, the SOC and range calculation seems to be done from 1707 "battery calculator" that I still don'y know where is (hope to solve in few days...)
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francisco.shi
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Re: Aftermarket iMiEV battery upgrade project

Post by francisco.shi »

I have been doing a bit of highway testing on the Imiev.
I went to the EV meet up at gold coast last night and camping ground this morning.
Did about 500km over the last 24hrs.
The cruise control is essential for highway.
Another weekend ruined.
Another weekend ruined.
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ABR trip
ABR trip
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Re: Aftermarket iMiEV battery upgrade project

Post by phil.shield »

Hi Francisco, I just joined the forum. Thanks for all your posts, I’m very impressed with all the upgrades you’ve made to your iMiev.
I have a 2010 iMiev, but the battery pack is badly degraded. It only has about 5.2 usable kWh, which is barely enough to get 30 km of range under normal conditions with AC operating.
I’m in Everton Park on Brisbane Northside. Would you be willing to consider doing an upgrade on my vehicle?

Thanks
Phil
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Re: Aftermarket iMiEV battery upgrade project

Post by francisco.shi »

You need to ask Graeme at suzi auto for the batteries. He has the correct cells.
I am doing the hardware for him so you should be able to get everything from him.
You can PM me if you want to have a test drive. All the mods make the car feel much better to drive. I am only up the rd from you.
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