Anyone using a synkromotive controller?

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AirAg
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Anyone using a synkromotive controller?

Post by AirAg »

From what everyone is saying the range of motot controllers available is not huge at the moment. Most seem to complain about the noise and the price of the Curtis and the The zilla is even more expensive and not in production at the moment.
I am looking at a Synkromotive controller sold by EVcomponents. It is priced right and has a good 650amp limit. I have been in touch with the guys at EV components and they say it will do what I want.
I have a 1988 Toyota Corolla, a Netgain Impulse9 motor and Thundersky batteries. I want to try and run it in one gear if possible so probably need a controller with a high current rating.
Other than that I know nothing about controllers
HEre is the link
http://www.evcomponents.com/ProductDeta ... ode=SYNKRO
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Johny
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Post by Johny »

It looks pretty good to me.
This blog
indicates that even the beta controller was well supported and performed well except for some temperature sensing problems that were ironed out.
Google "synkromotive controller" and just browse through some hits.

I am not sure about an Impulse 9 in direct drive though. That's a reasonably big ask for a 9 inch motor.
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Post by antiscab »

I doubt an implulse 9 would do direct drive all that well either (from a continuous power point of view)

Peter - what performance do you want out of your EV?
top speed?
0-60 time
0-100 time

what will be your final gear ratio?
how heavy do you expect the conversion to be?
what pack voltage are you intending on running?

for direct drive, the controller will speed most of its time at high current on the motor-side and at low duty cycle.
This means the freewheel diodes will be stressed more, and will require
greater cooling.

The cooling capacity on the free wheel diodes varies from controller to controller (usually depending on quality of the controller, curtis being poor, zilla being terrific.)

continuous current capacity while at low duty cycle is limited by how effective the cooling is on the freewheel diodes (as opposed to high duty cycle where the limit is more on the gates)

some controllers monitor temperature and have effective cooling on the gates, caps and freewheel diodes (zilla).

Cheaper controllers assume the user will run at high duty cycles continuously (and will use a gearbox religiously). This means that only the gates are properly heatsinked, cooled and monitored. This means that when the freewheels diodes (or caps) overheat, and fail, the only indication you get is loss of power (or even worse full power) and smoke.

I can't say how good the synkromotive controller will be, but with direct drive you do need a more powerful controller (with alot more margin)
650A direct drive will be a bit marginal.

before buying, check/ask how effective the cooling is on *all* the power-stage components.

i do know the adc-9 (similar continuous rating to a warp 9) works really well for direct drive in a certain beemer with a zilla 1k.

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Post by AirAg »

Thanks for the replies.
I do not intend to run direct drive, the car is FWD. I have the gearbox but no clutch and want to try and keep to one gear without too many changes. 2nd gear is 5.5:1 and 3rd is 4:1 and 4th is 2.75:
I initially calculated using 4500rpm motor speed but reading some of the discussions I think that may be a bit fast.
Lachlanmac has a similiar car to me and says that he uses 3rd and 4th and can start in 4th but it is a bit steady.
I will read up more on the synkromotor controller and probably go with that.
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Post by Squiggles »

antiscab wrote: I doubt an implulse 9 would do direct drive all that well either (from a continuous power point of view)

what will be your final gear ratio?

Matt

Doesn't direct drive imply a ratio of 1:1?
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Post by coulomb »

"Direct drive" is a bit of a misnomer; it usually means "direct to diff", i.e. no transmission or clutch. So there's usually a ratio of some 4:1 from the motor to the wheels.
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Post by Squiggles »

OK so what are we going to call it when we use multiple motors with no differential? Inconsequential differential drive (IDD)?
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Post by antiscab »

when someone does a "true" direct drive conversion, then we can make a name :)

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Post by woody »

I think AirAg is keeping the gearbox, but keeping it in one gear.

I reckon if you have the gearbox, you may as well use it to keep the motor in its efficiency and/or power range.

I don't know how big a deal it is to keep the clutch or beef up the syncros...
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Post by antiscab »

ah, somehow missed the "keeping gearbox and staying in one gear" bit.

an impulse 9 at 650A only has around 170Nm (and will maintain it right out to around 3700rpm if your batteries can supply 650A@120v, 2.5vpc*48cells)

might cause problems with a slipping clutch, though you wont know until you floor it when the conversions done.

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Post by electricvw »

Just wanted to let you know I am beta testing a Synkromotive in my Electric Ghia. I have had some updates already installed and since then I have had some real good results. They are selling controllers but there are still betas being tested for a final version. Many bugs are out but testing is still ongoing. I took my vehicle out today and found that it performed well at 60 mph and actually had less amp draw than from my previous controller. My other controller is an older Golftech 72 volt 550 amp controller. That controller is an excellent controller for an older model. High amps and silent. Better than the curtis of the same volt range. I am currently running the Synkro in 72 volt mode and will be bumping the voltage to 96 this week. I am not going higher on the voltage right now because I am using 6 volt batteries and sadly the Ghia has limited space for much more than 96 volts. We now also have a 67 VW Squareback and will be installing the Synkro in that. When that happens we will bump the voltage to either 144 or 156 volts. 156 is our goal with the Squareback.

Check my site out and you will see the progress if you have not seen it already. I am a member of EVDL and DIY. I just wanted to let you know I am using the Synkro and so far I am pleased. I also have a Kelly and it is OK. I use the Kelly on a different style system.

I use run a GE 9" Series motor in the Ghia.

Pete :)

I will post results as soon as I get the OK from Synkro. It is a beta so I need permission from Syknro first. When they give the go ahead I will post my findings. I will be honest and fair and if there are issues I will let it be known. They want honest feedback and real on road log files. I like that feature. Live on the road monitoring. Sweet.

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Post by electricvw »

You will want to use more than one gear. If you can go with a clutch you should. You will be glad you did. :)
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Post by AirAg »

Thanks for that Pete
I'm afraid the clutch is already gone. I really want the golf cart experience.
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