Open Source DC controller
Posted: Wed, 19 May 2010, 06:42
Hello All,
I hope I can clear up a few things going on here.
The IGBT's that are being gotten on eBay, The Powerex CM400DU-12F are a trench gate design. You have to be very carefull that all 4 modules are as close together as possible. It is important to make sure that they are very close to the same temp across the group. You should also match these modules together to get them all with the closest voltage drop. This will keep them all running closer to the same temp to begin with.
As for controlling them withthe stock control board. One manor thing is they are run at lower frequency, 8kHz insted of 16kHz. This helps with the ringing caused by the low turnon voltage and the non negative turn off voltage. Also, some of the older modules just arnt capable of the higher frequencies no matter how you drive them, but the powerex modules are rated up to 20kHz IIRC.
I have been working on a design I mentioned on another thread, but cannot find it. I have created a small driver board that mounts right to the CM400DU-12F gate terminals. This boards requires 24V and uses a resistor/zener setup to create +16.3V and -7.6V for driving the IGBT.



I am currently (this week) testing them out. I have already found some small layout things that just bug me, lol, but nothing major. When I get these all tested, I will be taking orders for rev 2. (which will include all the layout changes.)
As for the contactors.... I think you guys are forgetting that the batteries will not see 1000A. The 1000A controller is talking about 1000A of motor current. The battery current is much lower, And, If your running 288V, you will never be able to pull that much at that voltage....You will have to be at 100% duty cycle which is full voltage, and current directly from the batteries...its also 288Kw or 386Hp e.
If your using lithium batteries, you will have a max current. For me, the TS cells are limited to 3C, so my 90 - 100Ah batteries are only good for 300A. I plan to use the Kilovac EV200 contactors. 2 of them, 1 on positive and 1 on negative. Negative will turn on with ignition, and positive will turn on with the controllers contactor control. This way I can disconnect the back entirely when the car is off, and can pre-charge around the positive contactor after the negative one is closed.
Well I think thats its.
-Adam
I hope I can clear up a few things going on here.
The IGBT's that are being gotten on eBay, The Powerex CM400DU-12F are a trench gate design. You have to be very carefull that all 4 modules are as close together as possible. It is important to make sure that they are very close to the same temp across the group. You should also match these modules together to get them all with the closest voltage drop. This will keep them all running closer to the same temp to begin with.
As for controlling them withthe stock control board. One manor thing is they are run at lower frequency, 8kHz insted of 16kHz. This helps with the ringing caused by the low turnon voltage and the non negative turn off voltage. Also, some of the older modules just arnt capable of the higher frequencies no matter how you drive them, but the powerex modules are rated up to 20kHz IIRC.
I have been working on a design I mentioned on another thread, but cannot find it. I have created a small driver board that mounts right to the CM400DU-12F gate terminals. This boards requires 24V and uses a resistor/zener setup to create +16.3V and -7.6V for driving the IGBT.



I am currently (this week) testing them out. I have already found some small layout things that just bug me, lol, but nothing major. When I get these all tested, I will be taking orders for rev 2. (which will include all the layout changes.)
As for the contactors.... I think you guys are forgetting that the batteries will not see 1000A. The 1000A controller is talking about 1000A of motor current. The battery current is much lower, And, If your running 288V, you will never be able to pull that much at that voltage....You will have to be at 100% duty cycle which is full voltage, and current directly from the batteries...its also 288Kw or 386Hp e.
If your using lithium batteries, you will have a max current. For me, the TS cells are limited to 3C, so my 90 - 100Ah batteries are only good for 300A. I plan to use the Kilovac EV200 contactors. 2 of them, 1 on positive and 1 on negative. Negative will turn on with ignition, and positive will turn on with the controllers contactor control. This way I can disconnect the back entirely when the car is off, and can pre-charge around the positive contactor after the negative one is closed.
Well I think thats its.
-Adam