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Posted: **Thu, 30 May 2019, 21:56**

Also put together a test battery pack using 24 x 15ah Headway cells to do some bench testing.

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Posted: **Thu, 30 May 2019, 22:18**

I struggled trying to get the controller to do the angle identification setup and control the motor but got there in the end. I did swap the positions of the hall sensor A and C wires in the connector so they matched the controller connector side. That didn't seem to fix it straight away but after running the setup step and few more times it eventually worked. Whenever the angle identification setup finishes it puts out a buzzer alarm code 3,2 which is for internal reset which isn't very intuitive. It might have been working a bit earlier as I didn't test the throttle every time it finished, thinking it hadn't worked because of the alarm!

Posted: **Thu, 30 May 2019, 22:33**

One problem I've run into is the gap between the brake rotor and the motor is pretty small so the original brake caliper doesn't fit!

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I contacted QS Motor and they recommended a few from their catalog that would work. Ended up getting this one in grey. I'll need to get a new mounting bracket made based on the original design and this new caliper.

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Posted: **Fri, 31 May 2019, 07:32**

What is the energy density of the finished battery pack? (Wh/kg)

Posted: **Fri, 31 May 2019, 09:38**

francisco.shi wrote: ↑Fri, 31 May 2019, 07:32 What is the energy density of the finished battery pack? (Wh/kg)

According to the specs, the Headway 15ah are 105 Wh/kg

Posted: **Fri, 31 May 2019, 10:50**

Is that after it is assembled with the bus bars and holder?

Posted: **Fri, 31 May 2019, 17:51**

francisco.shi wrote: ↑Fri, 31 May 2019, 10:50 Is that after it is assembled with the bus bars and holder?

No that’s just based on the specs of the cells. This is just a temporary pack that I’m using for testing. Still haven’t decided exactly what the final pack will be.

Posted: **Mon, 10 Jun 2019, 20:40**

Had some awesome help from Danny Ripperton (AEVA member) machining the swingarm blocks that hold the hub motor axle.

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The blocks are solid aluminium and weigh 344g each

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Posted: **Mon, 10 Jun 2019, 20:48**

Put the new blocks into the existing swingarm, swapped the tyre over and got it all into the bike. Next step is to work out how to mount the batteries and controller inside the frame. Decided to push the bike home from the workshop and got some interesting shots on the way

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Posted: **Tue, 20 Aug 2019, 18:47**

soyachips wrote: ↑Tue, 23 Apr 2019, 21:47

I'm a bit late to the party for this, but I'm a stickler for data so I couldn't help but mention it.

The continuous discharge for yinlong cells is rated at 10c, and the burst is 25c from memory.
I saw yinlong has 150 as continuous, which is nearly a third of whats it capable of.
I considered that it might be referencing a minimum voltage you have specified for your needs, but the others seem to be rather high for that.
Im an avid user of yinlong so i thought id just point it out.

Posted: **Wed, 21 Aug 2019, 12:37**

Richo wrote: ↑Thu, 18 Apr 2019, 13:05 https://www.aliexpress.com/item/30pcs-2 ... 69826.html

The link I provided indicated 6C/15C by the seller.
So the data soyachips used was based on that.

I understand that this is your experience but is there any actual tests or datasheets that claim 10C/25C?

In anycase I doubt that it was deciding factor for the battery used in this conversion.

Posted: **Fri, 04 Oct 2019, 20:23**

OK so it's been way too long again! Quite a lot has happened but not nearly as much as I would have liked

I decided to build the battery box using V-slot aluminium extrusion which is used on 3D printers as this would allow me to play around and adjust the size of the box easily with basic tools and no welding. It's a modular system with lots of options for brackets, etc. that just screw together. I'm also using polycarbonate sheet which slots into the extrusion as the panels to keep the water out and allows inspection of everything.

I'm using 24 x 15ah and 24 x 10ah Headways cells to make up a pack. The 15ah and 10ah cells are paired up in parallel first then put together in series to make a 76.8V pack. The lengths of the cells are different so I ended up using aluminium spacers to make up the difference. Lots of cutting, drilling and filing to make the battery connectors but it's all together now and seems like it will work. At some point I will take it all apart, label everything so I know where everything goes and reassemble using carbon grease to get good contacts between all the critical surfaces. Also still need to attach the BMS wires to each cell somehow.

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Posted: **Fri, 04 Oct 2019, 20:30**

Looking very swish

Posted: **Fri, 04 Oct 2019, 20:55**

The other major update is on the rear brake caliper. Early on I did a lot of research to find a donor bike that I could reuse the original rear brake setup with the new hub motor. Doing lots of prototyping to make sure make sure if would all line up and fit ... so everything was going really well until I tried to put the original brake caliper over the brake rotor and it didn't fit because of the size of the hub motor!!! I contacted the QS Motor and they recommended an alternative that just fits. So the next step was to work out a new bracket.

I started off with timber to get a rough design then made some 3D printed prototypes. The final design had a slot that wasn't easy to make without having the right tools (e.g. a milling machine) so I've just sent it off to get machined through 3DHubs. You can upload a 3D model to their site and get an instant quote in different materials and finishes which is very cool. I'm using Aluminum 7075-T6 which is a bit stronger and will be bead blasted then anodized black. The great thing about CNC machining and 3D printing is that complexity comes for free, the machine doesn't care what crazy design you come up with. It just has to move around a bit more! Anyway very excited to see what the final part looks like and will post some pics when it arrives.

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Posted: **Fri, 04 Oct 2019, 20:56**

I love the battery pack enclosure edges - very nice. I presume they're pretty strong?
Nice work on the brake caliper too - the rear brake and wheel alignment can take ages to get right.

Posted: **Fri, 04 Oct 2019, 21:00**

This was the final design:

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Posted: **Fri, 04 Oct 2019, 21:04**

jonescg wrote: ↑Fri, 04 Oct 2019, 20:56 I love the battery pack enclosure edges - very nice. I presume they're pretty strong?
Nice work on the brake caliper too - the rear brake and wheel alignment can take ages to get right.

I found some references on how to make the corners strong and was going to follow that but because I'm using polycarbonate on the inside I can't quite do that but I'm going to silicon the panels in, use threadlock on all the screws and put those corner bracket things everywhere I can so I'm thinking it will be strong enough.

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Posted: **Fri, 04 Oct 2019, 21:09**

Or do you mean the square corner things? They seem pretty strong too and I've got long screws going into the ends of the extrusions. Funny because I've since read that any more than 6 threads doesn't add any more strength so I did a whole lot more tapping than I needed to!

Posted: **Fri, 04 Oct 2019, 21:15**

Richo wrote: ↑Wed, 21 Aug 2019, 12:37
Richo wrote: ↑Thu, 18 Apr 2019, 13:05 https://www.aliexpress.com/item/30pcs-2 ... 69826.html
The link I provided indicated 6C/15C by the seller.
So the data soyachips used was based on that.

I understand that this is your experience but is there any actual tests or datasheets that claim 10C/25C?

In anycase I doubt that it was deciding factor for the battery used in this conversion.

Thanks for the feedback on the Yinlong cells. They look really interesting and will keep them in mind in case I need to upgrade my pack down the track.

Posted: **Sat, 05 Oct 2019, 17:55**

I much does the battery pack weigh?

Posted: **Sun, 06 Oct 2019, 14:11**

francisco.shi wrote: ↑Sat, 05 Oct 2019, 17:55 I much does the battery pack weigh?

The pack weighs 28.5kg

Posted: **Sun, 13 Oct 2019, 21:45**

OK so I think I know the answer but just want to check so I don’t buy the wrong thing ... if I use 4 x LiFePO4 cells to power my 12V system and I want to use a DC-DC converter to keep them charged, I need a converter that outputs something higher than 12V right? I’ve seen ones that output 13.8V which looks like a good balance of high enough to charge the batteries but not over charge them. Most converters output 12V which seems too low or would that work fine?

Posted: **Sun, 13 Oct 2019, 22:46**

Most dcdc converters I've seen that say they output 12v actually output around 14v. I think they just use 12v because that's the voltage that people know.
Check the datasheet/in depth specs to be sure

Posted: **Mon, 14 Oct 2019, 12:33**

4 x headway is 12.8V nominal and 14.6V charged.
So anything from 13V-14V is ok.
Most of that would be for the headlight+brake light.

So 100-150W for a DC-DC?

Posted: **Mon, 14 Oct 2019, 20:12**

brendon_m wrote: ↑Sun, 13 Oct 2019, 22:46 Most dcdc converters I've seen that say they output 12v actually output around 14v. I think they just use 12v because that's the voltage that people know.
Check the datasheet/in depth specs to be sure

Great thanks, will do

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