Richo's AC Handi Sports

Post up a thread for your EV. Progress pics, description and assorted alliteration
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Richo
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Richo's AC Handi Sports

Post by Richo » Thu, 31 Jan 2013, 01:53

No pilot bearing.
Are you referring to a bearing that the end of the gearbox shaft sits in?
There is a hole in the ICE motor coupling but that is only for initial alignment not for the gearbox shaft to slide into.
So the short answer is NO but the long answer is YES.
Help prevent road rage - get outta my way!

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Richo
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Post by Richo » Thu, 31 Jan 2013, 02:04

Looks like I'll be off to the tool shop tomorrow.

The machinists don't like my flywheel adaptor because it has a blind keyway. Image
I'm sure all the mech's are screaming out ::noob:: Image
Anyway as a result I need to split the design in two so the keyway is easier(read cheaper) to make.
Which means I now wan't to pull the flywheel apart.
And what doya know it has weirdo bolts in it I don't have a socket for.
I'm assuming they are external Torx (E-torx).
Specifically E10.

The worshop manuals are useless.
The engine chapter describes the engine.
The clutch chapter describes the clutch.
But niether mention the flywheel...
Not that I would expect them to say what the bolt is or it's size anyway.
So the short answer is NO but the long answer is YES.
Help prevent road rage - get outta my way!

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Richo
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Post by Richo » Thu, 31 Jan 2013, 03:26

Stiive wrote:why'd you choose this (DTC) over FOC? I'm thinking of porting soon.


Both a probably fine and the difference may not be noticable in an eV.
However I drive like a maniac so want the marginal extra torque response. Image
The downside of DTC will be extra noise which is usually a consideration when connecting to the grid but not in an eV.
Also since the motor will be custom and in contantly changing contitions I didn't want the algorithm too dependent on the motor parameters.
A motor grinding stuff sitting on a factory floor is not really compariable to the motor contantly changing torque and speed while in a moving vehicle.

Also using the gearbox means the poor performance of DTC at low RPM isn't as noticable than in direct drive systems.

But I'll probably change my mind while i'm writing code and repeatedly cursing Image
So the short answer is NO but the long answer is YES.
Help prevent road rage - get outta my way!

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Richo
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Richo's AC Handi Sports

Post by Richo » Tue, 05 Mar 2013, 03:42

I have put the Induction motor and Sirion box in as a mock up to see if it fits.
No Problem - even if I was using a 2" adapter plate. Image

Image

Image
So the short answer is NO but the long answer is YES.
Help prevent road rage - get outta my way!

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Richo
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Post by Richo » Tue, 16 Apr 2013, 04:19

After a lot of discussions with various machine shops - some who asked what a keyway was Image
I decided to let the pros at evworks make the clutch adaptor.

Image

I had intended to have the motor adaptor plate (motor flange to gearbox bell housing) lasered out but it seems that our local laser shops don't go bigger than about 16mm for aluminium.
So I am limited to making it by hand, having it wire cut or CNC'ed.
The plate will probably be 45-50mm thick.
So the short answer is NO but the long answer is YES.
Help prevent road rage - get outta my way!

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KDRYAN
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Richo's AC Handi Sports

Post by KDRYAN » Tue, 16 Apr 2013, 11:12

You could try water cutting.

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Post by Johny » Tue, 16 Apr 2013, 14:48

Richo wrote: I decided to let the pros at evworks make the clutch adaptor.
Good move. I wouldn't be surprised if it saved you money in the long run.

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Richo
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Post by Richo » Tue, 16 Apr 2013, 20:31

The main issue I will have with the adaptor plate is getting the dowel pins and motor shaft aligned properly.
Clutch people say it needs to be within 0.1mm or I'll have issues with excessive clutch wear and noise.
I think I need to buy or borrow some verniers that can measure the 200-300mm distances accurately enough.
My 150mm ones won't cut it!

Water cutting is an option.
But I guess the machine shops will make the call when quoting.
So the short answer is NO but the long answer is YES.
Help prevent road rage - get outta my way!

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Post by BigMouse » Tue, 16 Apr 2013, 22:04

Richo wrote: I think I need to buy or borrow some verniers that can measure the 200-300mm distances accurately enough.
My 150mm ones won't cut it!


Has anyone found (or have) a good method for taking these precise measurements with calipers? I'm curious to see. I have access to a "Romer" 3d coordinate arm at Uni that I can use, but supposedly it's not as repeatable as some would like. It's supposed to be good to 10 microns or something ridiculous like that.

I can measure the distances from the holes to the shaft well enough, but the points aren't all on the same plane, and then there's the matter of measuring the locations of the holes themselves with respect to some "datum" point. At least that's how I would guess it would be done. Any guides out there?

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Richo
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Post by Richo » Tue, 16 Apr 2013, 22:49

Calipers should good for 0.02mm
I have to measure this off the back of the engine block.
I have been told about the 3D laser systems but I doubt it's practical to put an engine block in there or cheap.
So the short answer is NO but the long answer is YES.
Help prevent road rage - get outta my way!

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