Voltron, the Electric RG!

Post up a thread for your EV. Progress pics, description and assorted alliteration
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AussieJester
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Post by AussieJester »

jonescg wrote: Hi All,

Well today I finished up the fairings to the point where they are self-supporting. Everything is in place so I can make a list of things to put finishing touches. This is the bike as she stands now:

Image

This is how I'm holding the fairings on at the moment. I'll get some more correctly sized bolts later on.
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I'm most happy about the way I got the carbon mudguard to go on. I want to eventually remove the anti-dive units since they don't do anything. This would alow for the thing to be fixed with a bolt at the base.

Image

Lots of room for batteries in there. It'll be tight but I think we're OK.
Image

This is the front fairing bracket. Pretty agricultural, but it works. I need to put another bolt and strap of steel out to the fairings to steady side-to-side movement. There are also some spacers which point out from the fairings where folks would normally attach an Oggyknob. I can extend these and put a bolt in there too. Then it's not going anywhere :)
Image
I also need to find room for the cycle-analyst computer and speedo / tacho / battery management signals etc.

Yep - you can slide the bar down and tighten the crap out of the pinchbolt Image It could be a bit neater, but it worked.
Image

Looking good Image Bring on the batteries!!!!!
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Good to see things moving along buddy, i meant to ask to regarding the throttle (grips) or more the anodised alumnium ends, these came with the throttle assembly did they or were they an extra items? I recall you said they were from Movement systems? I been there a few times myself theres a pic of my trike on their picture wall haha...

KiM

p.s... cool hair, but im biased i have hair down the middle of my back to hahaa
Last edited by AussieJester on Sun, 11 Apr 2010, 20:42, edited 1 time in total.
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EV2Go
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Post by EV2Go »

Have you lowered the rear end at all? Droping the front end that much without droping the back will make it extremely twitchy.

I dropped my front about 15mm and it want's to fold the front tyre under much more, and it has unloaded the rear tyre big time.
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Post by jonescg »

I haven't lowered the front end that much, rather just moved the bars a bit lower. I can possibly raise the front end up to the top of the tripleclamp, and this combined with 50 kg worth of batteries should load the front up considerably. The rear shock is f*!@ed and a new one is about $900, so I'm still saving up for that. I'm going to be 20 kg over the original kerb weight, so I might eventually source some stiffer springs. I really need to get the batteries soon, and hopefully we can start devising a set of trays to support them.

KiM, the bar ends came from McCulloch Suzuki. I had to thread the bolts a bit further in order to get them to stay, but the throttle came from Movement Systems. I saw your pic up on the wall Image Looking good mate!
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Post by marcopolo »

That's starting to look like one seriously cool bike!
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Post by EV2Go »

I dropped mine for two reason

1) I have short legs and had to stand on tippy toes at lights
2) Dropping the front helps stop it wheelstanding.

This how far I dropped mine, only 15mm from flush with the top of forks...

Even 15mm has made a huge difference to low speed cornering, so much so I have ordered some rear lowering links to even it back up again.

Unfortunately the handlebars and the triple tree on mine can't be seperated like yours. See how you go but don't be surprised if at low speeds it want's to turn in more than usual.

Image
Last edited by EV2Go on Mon, 12 Apr 2010, 09:15, edited 1 time in total.
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jonescg
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Post by jonescg »

Battery packs are arriving this week! Here's 2:
Image

I also got my new shock absorber!
Image

The Cycle Analyst is 90% of a battery management system... Charging isn't monitored though.
Image
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Post by Thalass »

Looks great! Where are you getting the batteries from?
I'll drive an electric vehicle one day.
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Post by jonescg »

cell_man scored some A123 prismatic cells, so I snaffled up 100 of them. They should be half-way here.
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Post by procrastination inc »

wicked cells :)

that's about 6400Ah

you should get really good range at speed with those

and they'll be light too

really nice conversion
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Post by procrastination inc »

doh! 6400Wh!
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Post by aegidius »

Did you import the Agni's yourself, or is someone bringing them in? Was there any drama getting them? I'm looking to build a bike with one (I used to have an RG, so yours is nostalgia :-)
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Post by jonescg »

Hi Giles,
I ordered them directly from Agni Motors in India. Contact Hasmuck Rabadia and he can arrange a sale. Just make sure he sends them with a declared value of less than $1000, otherwise you will pay the GST on top of the 5% that customs takes :(. From memory they were 742 pound sterling each.
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Post by antiscab »

the %5 customs fee only gets charged if customs have to bill you the 10% GST. its for the service of doing the collection :p

declare total value (including shipping !!) to less than $1000, and you avoid both.
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Post by aegidius »

How big (physically) are those batteries, and how are you fitting them in? That was always the stumbling block with my earlier attempts at building an e-bike (back in the Age of Lead).

I was thinking 22 cells x 90Ah Thunderskys for 72V, or 60Ah ones if they are just too large. But remembering my RG frame layout, they will be a tight squeeze (it spent too much time with its engine out :-) Are the A123 packs significantly smaller than Thundersky or SkyEnergy for the same Ah?
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Post by Richo »

Can I ask what is the total length from the end of the first motor to the other end of the second motor with your bracket inbetween?
I'm trying to gauge what is an acceptable total motor length you can get on a bike before it sticks out too far of the fairing etc

The problem with prismatics such as thundersky on a bike is they are just too big a block to make good use of the space.
Also it is still suggested that they stand up-right which further restricts placement.
I have the headways which are cylindrical and can be placed in any position.
The smaller format means more can be squeezed into some of the more resticted spaces.
The headway cells should pack more punch than an equivelent TS/SE pack.

Of course if you want a race bike like jonescg use the A123's! Image
So the short answer is NO but the long answer is YES.
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Post by jonescg »

The inside dimensions of the motor mount are 189 mm. The plate is 8 mm thick, and the Agni motors are about 137 mm each. So you're looking at a total of 479 mm end to end.

Battery packs are ~255 mm long, 175 mm wide, 90 mm tall.
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Post by Richo »

Thanks for the info Image
In AC land this is a 100-frame motor ie ~30kW.
They are under 350mm long so would fit in ok.
Nice to know for the future!
So the short answer is NO but the long answer is YES.
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Post by Electrocycle »

except that you'd end up with the sprocket way out the side of the bike with a single motor of that length!

The agnis are facing each other with the chain drive running between them.
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Post by jonescg »

Hi Everyone,
I have been busy trying to clone genes from sandalwood in Canada, but I'm back and making progress on my electric RG.

I spent a day at EV-works getting all the cables cut to length and crimping lugs on the ends. The motor now has a mount in the middle, making it much easier to get in and out of the bike.
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Image
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The controller will get mighty hot, so I'm going to have to put a couple of 12V CPU fans on to keep the heat away. I was also thinking of a water cooling jacket to sit the unit on top of. That's for later.

I was putting the battery packs into the frame when a few sparkies reminded me that the whole top of the pack was live... So I took to it with some perspex and while I was at it, I put some BMS wires in too. These will run from each of the 8 packs and connect to a BMS board (Rod's little jiggers will do the trick) or at least two boards of 16 units each, either side of the batteries. I think they look pretty smart anyways :)

Image
ImageImage

I'm hoping to have it ready for her first test ride in a week or two. Not quite done yet ;)
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Post by EV2Go »

That battery pack looks huge until you see the next photo with your hand next to it Image
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Post by jonescg »

Finished all 8 packs. One of the boxes of packs remained unopened since it's arrival from China. WTF did they do? drop it from an aeroplane??
Image

Anyway, it still took a perspex top reasonably well. At least now I can measure them with a metal ruler and I don't get fireworks :D
Image
Image

Concerning, was the fact that I could measure a voltage of 8-9 volts from the + terminal and the aluminium case which holds the packs. The voltage drops steadily though, maybe a volt per minute or so. I don't measure a current with the ammeter, so it's not a genuine short somewhere... concerning...
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Post by jonescg »

Well she has started coming together now that most of the parts are ready Image

Image

The bolt system devised in the previous post seems to have worked, I just hope the aluminium lug can hold it's own. But Oh man was this ever a bitch to lift up into the bike! I need to get a little platform jack and some decent front and rear track stands... Still, 32 kg worth of battery in place :)

Image

Terminating these guys means taking a 50 mm2 cable lug with a 6 mm hole (the smallest available) and drilling an M4 hole in it 10 mm away so that I can screw two M4s into it. It's messy, but probably the best I can come up with. Also, I need to keep the battery +ve cable on, otherwise I'd need to train that team of hamsters to screw it in for me. This pic shows said cable, looking down between motors and battery terminals. The PVC tape stops any needless shorting out :)

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I read that contactors should really be on the positive battery terminal, but had originally planned on putting it on the negative since the wiring flowed a bit easier. But I later realised that I could fit the contactor on the battery +ve and the shunt resistor for the CA can go on the negative terminal (big ups to Justin and Adam, being CA appreciation week and all :)).
With a bit of dicking around and cutting the seat plastic away so the wires weren't crushed, I managed to get everything going back to the Kelly controller without too much trouble. The shunt will have to hang out the side since there's no room under the seat for it without being dangerously close to the battery positive. The controller needs a 20-24 volt DC supply in order to function, so rather than carry a 24 V axillary battery I decided to buy a solid-state 12V-24V step up converter. The contactor runs on 12 V, so no point carrying the extra weight.

Image

Fingers crossed I can get the motors spinning through the controller tomorrow, depending on how many beers I decide to have with AussieJester down by the river Image eFX watch out! Image Image
Last edited by jonescg on Sat, 20 Nov 2010, 16:14, edited 1 time in total.
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Post by Richo »

Electrically speaking there is no difference between the + or - for the contactor.
As long as the current flow is stopped somewhere it does the job.
Now if the High voltage wiring was grounded to the chassis at the - side then this would be a problem and the contactor would have to be on the +.
But I don't recommend that the HV wiring be connected to the chassis.
This also depends on if the controller has the 12V/24V line isolated from the HV wiring.

I see you have a gigavac there as the contactor.
Does that have mounting points for connection to the chassis.
I ask because I have kilovacs which have the bolt terminals and also holes for mounting to the chassis.

I am also concerned about the 2 nuts on the main wiring at the controller.
If one came loose during a race can it unwind and short the two terminals together - they look pretty close on the picture?
Perhaps a plastic clip that seperates them to remove this possibility.
So the short answer is NO but the long answer is YES.
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Post by Richo »

jonescg wrote: Finished all 8 packs. One of the boxes of packs remained unopened since it's arrival from China. WTF did they do? drop it from an aeroplane??


Last time I got some batteries from China I found one was cut open then taped up!
Like on-one would notice that Image
I wrote a letter to customs asking them to explain.
Seems that the package was not inspected at our end but at the China end.

I seriously would not have been standing near the person who took to a battery with a stanley.
I bet they found out the hard way that it really was a battery!
Bammo Image

Edit: blame the beer for my bad typing Image
Last edited by Richo on Sat, 20 Nov 2010, 18:30, edited 1 time in total.
So the short answer is NO but the long answer is YES.
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Post by 7circle »

Wow not much room there on the top terminals,
Looks like some washer and side2side juggling.

And the Metal MS connecctors need to fit in their too.

(I hate the Enviro MS connectors with the internal rubber gaskets.)

Do the controllers come with Multi-pin connectors and 1 meter loom wires attached?

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