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Post up a thread for your EV. Progress pics, description and assorted alliteration
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EV2Go
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Post by 7circle »

The battery weight can move with the rider.

But trike dynamics is much different to two-wheelers.

Yeah trike is very different to four wheeler needs for anti roll to.

Whats the best for traction, and holding on in tight corners.
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Post by 7circle »

Whats the shear strength of the materials.

Been a long long time since I have considered mechanical failure analysis.

I'd imagine there are plenty of thumb rules to make it easier. Image

Are you working out the Speedo pickup?

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Post by Johny »

Here's an argument for tilting Paul. Watch the video.
http://www.flytheroad.com/index.html
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T1 Terry
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Post by T1 Terry »

The motor mounted on top of the diff would also give you quick ratio change options and they could be mounted to the shafts using taper-locs, available from any bearing shop. The toothed gear and pawl mechanism from an auto transmission like a BW35 could be welded to the coupling used on the diff pinion, this would give you a recognised park locking mechanism and a toothed wheel for the speedo sensor in one and easily obtainable from any auto trans shop or wreckers. The BW35(Borg Warner 35) transmission was used by a lot of manufactures for many years. With the motor mounted above the diff lots of suspension systems become easier to adapt and a good area to mount the batteries.
Hows that for throwing a spanner in the works Image

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Post by T1 Terry »

I think there is tad more than 50hp being transmitted via the blower belts. Check out the width of the belts on a Harley Sturgis drive, do you think you will be able to apply more torque than that without flipping the trike over?
Centre of gravity, hmmm... the battery weight up high compared to the being mounted where the motor is now.... I guess you've crunched the numbers. The diff spun around so the motor hangs forward behind the drivers seat? That would make a very short rear end and all te weight forward. VW kombi torsion bar rear suspension with coil over shocks. Keeps the diff in place to stop axle tramp and spring whip but keeps the suspension weight low.
Just tossing around ideas Image

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Post by 7circle »

I think cars use solid brake line to reduce costs mainly. Good flex brakline that doesn't change in volume much with high brake pressure is expensive.

How do you get from the handle bars to the main frame?
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Post by Carv'n Marv'n »

...havn't read this thread for a while....

Have used Hydraulic Flex lines on my tilt'n trike - having heaps of movement is no problem....the rear brakes lines (where all the movement is) are split from the front of the frame, and run left and right.

...can I suggest, though boring as it sounds.... to complete your design work before undertaking any more construction (in every detail). It will be tedious and time consuming.... but will save you money and much frustration.

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Post by Carv'n Marv'n »

... at a minimum then, make a full size PVC tube and timber frame as your 'mock-up' prior to fabricating any of the frame. You'll be able to correct any mistakes and make changes easily and cheaply. You will also end up with templates and cut-lengths for all components of your frame.
Again, this sounds tedious, but well worth the effort.
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Post by 7circle »

The mounting of the motor to the diff needs to take car of vibration at the brushes.

If you can make the pivot point as close to this then the brushes will have minimal angular movement when the rear axle bumps over humps and pot holes.

Laminations that are used in the armature and the fill the field cores are also delicate and can vibrate apart.

I really don't think they are designed to follow the wheels with he road.
There are massive G (acceleration) forces on the unsuspended components.

Just don't want your Kostov to turn into scrap metal in 10km's down the road.
That's a bit exaggerated but it may reduce its life.

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