EV parts in Adealide

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drowe67
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Post by drowe67 »

Hi,

I need to make up some high current cables to wire up my EV. Can anyone recommend a place to buy the battery terminals and welding cable? I would like terminals with insulated boots and spare wing-nut type terminals for monitoring/charging. I am also after an emergency cut-off switch and fuse.

Thanks,

David
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Post by Big Paul »

BOC Gas might be able to supply the welding cable (and perhaps some other bits), i believe that they at least used to sell welding cable. Worth the phone call anyway.
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DVR
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Post by DVR »

A Sparky I deal with at work recommended I try "Normak Cables" in Beverly. 8244 7288
I haven't contacted them personally but It's where he sources his cables.


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Post by CometBoy »

Hi David,

Another place to try is Olex Cables at 539 South Rd, Regency Park (1300 222 537); I have used them for years.

A couple of things that you most likely know already...

- Over 32 volts (from memory) you need to use orange coloured insulation (or sheath in orange conduit) on your positive leads.

- It’s also really important to choose the correct lugs to suit the cable and used the appropriate industrial crimping tool. If you don’t have or can’t rent a tool, give me a sample of the lugs you have selected and I may be able to help you, I can do a couple of sizes but don’t have the complete range.

- A few centimetres of heavy duty heat shrink tubing (the stuff with sealing compound inside) helps give a nice tidy finish to the job. You can source this from RS Components or Farnell Electronics.

Are you using batteries that require using a BMS?

Hope this might help

Cheers

Bruce
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Post by CometBoy »

Should add... If Olex will not sell you short lengths, ask them for a vendor that they supply that will!

Bruce
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Post by drowe67 »

Thanks Guys - both those places are very close to me here at Kilkenny, will check them out tomorrow.

So I guess I need to crimp the lugs to the cables, then get clamps for the battery terminals that screw onto the lugs.

Bruce - you offer of help with the crimping tool is much appreciated. Is there a particular size size lug I should aim for? I understand I need to use 50mm sq welding cable.

Yes my batteries (D31 Optima Yellow Tops) require a BMS - I am using individual 12V chargers to handle balancing. I am also connecting a Paktrakr to monitor all batteries. So I need some sort of secondary terminal on each battery connector, like a wing nut type terminal, although suggestions are welcome on other approaches.

Installed my rear battery racks today (and the pot-box at the front). Might hunt down some of this cable tomorrow and look into the vacuum tank. Can anyone please suggest a source for the PVC pressure pipe and the vacuum connectors? Stuff like the three way thingy here (from the Electric Echo site):

Image

I have a vacuum switch, but it has smaller diameter fitting to the pump.

Thanks again!

Cheers,

David
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Post by DVR »

WHere did you get your switch and pump? I'm trying to find local suppliers but anywhere in Aus will do.
I know pirtek have those fittings also Tool places like total tools. There is a really good tool place on cormack rd near sth rd.but I cant remember the name.
Last edited by DVR on Thu, 24 Jul 2008, 18:09, edited 1 time in total.


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Post by CometBoy »

On the Echo Car site he quotes 70mm cable @ $11.00/meter (that was late 2004 prices)

Doesn’t the D31 have Dual Terminals - Post and SAE 5/16 as standard?

I will not be back at work till next Tuesday, I will measure the sizes I can crimp and get back to you.

Good Luck

Bruce
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Post by drowe67 »

Thanks Bruce. My D31's I have just have a standard post.

DVR: I bought the vacuum pump and switch from evparts in the US. Type "vacuum" in the search box at the top. The total was about USD$360 including $60 shipping (Express mail option).
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Post by drowe67 »

Re vacuum pumps also just found an Australian source at Zero Emission Vehicles for UAD$395 including a built in switch.
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Post by drowe67 »

An update on where I purchased some bits:

1/ Battery terminals from Motorcraft. Main office is at Grand Junction Rd Kilburn, but local offices all over town. I am using the kind of terminals that bolt onto lugs, rather than crimping the cable directly to the terminal. Not sure why - just an arbitrary choice. Reminds me - I would like to get some plastic boots for these terminals. $7-70 each for what the Motorcraft guy considered high end-ish brass terminals.

2/ Welding cable and lugs from Noremak at Beverly as suggested by DVR. They also hire a crimping tool for $20/day. Nice guys, helpful with advice. $14-15/m for 50mm sq cable, and $2.30 for lugs (I bought 44 lugs). The cable is nice and flexible.

3/ I am buying a cable cutter ($17) and circuit breaker ($80) from zeva.com.au

4/ Heat shrink tubing for cables from an electrical supply shop L&H at Regency Road Kilkenny ($16 for 3m).

5/ Brass gas type fittings, tubing etc for vacuum pump system from Enzed on Cormack Rd Wingfield. Not cheap ($86 for the 8 parts I needed) but very helpful guys, helped me work out what I needed, explained how to assemble everything, use of the white sealing tape etc. Also noticed some similar parts at Super Cheap Auto - worth a try.

6/ While I am at it I should mention Metalcorp (Grand Junction Rd Ottaway) for the metal stock I used for the battery racks etc and Crown Fasteners (I think thats their name) for nuts and bolts, who are at Kilburn on Grand Junction Road just east of Churchill Road.

I am getting sick of spending money but at least the end is near!

- David
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Post by CometBoy »

David,

That’s a reasonable price for the 50mm sq cable.

Just checked with Key Tubing & Electrical Industries on 8374 -1400 and located at 6 Manfull St, Melrose Park SA 5039 (ask for Ric) and they supply 50mm sq cable in two variations for $7.95 and $9.85 per metre (nice and flexible). The $9.85 cable is double insulation and comes in orange. They also have a good price on the Utilux lug range.

Bruce
Last edited by CometBoy on Tue, 29 Jul 2008, 09:34, edited 1 time in total.
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Post by DVR »

drowe67 wrote: Crown Fasteners (I think thats their name) for nuts and bolts, who are at Kilburn on Grand Junction Road just east of Churchill Road.
I think thats Coventry Fasteners.

Thanks for all those details Dave! Image
Fantastic price on cable BruceE!!!
Last edited by DVR on Tue, 29 Jul 2008, 16:08, edited 1 time in total.


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Post by drowe67 »

Yes Coventry Fasteners. BTW one thing to watch with Coventry is that they have a $10 minimum cash sale, so make up a big list of what you need first. Yesterday I just needed some 20mm 1/4 inch bolts for my Curtis controller which came to just $4.20 so I had to hunt around the shop for something else to make up the $10....
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Post by CometBoy »

Has anyone recently had an EV project through Regency? Maybe ev1?? I am wondering about the positioning of the main battery circuit breaker or “Master Switch” as per Bulletin 74 and what will keep them happy?

I see they now recommend the use of an Inertia switch but do not insist on it…. I think they are a good idea but does anyone know the correct positioning of these as well?

Any tips on local suppliers would also help, I was looking at the Curtis ED250 circuit breaker they are a good quality switch but not cheap. http://www.bylongind.com.au/products/in ... -ED250.htm

Anyone purchased an Inertia switch locally?

Any help appreciated!

Thanks

Bruce
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Post by drowe67 »

Hi Bruce,

I have ordered this Airpax circuit breaker from zeva.com. I intend to mount it next to the driver on the transmission tunnel and have it double as the emergency switch and circuit breaker. I talked to Ian at Zeva first to determine that it would be OK for my Charade.

Cheers,

David
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Post by evric »

The inertia switch is available from motor wreckers. Just ask for a BA Falcon inertia switch. I got mine from Richmond Motor Salvage for $30.00
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Post by evric »

Sassafras Agencies (4 Richard St, Hindmarsh 83407711)will sell all types of bolts etc. with no minimum charge.
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Post by DVR »

CometBoy wrote: I am wondering about the positioning of the main battery circuit breaker or “Master Switch” as per Bulletin 74 and what will keep them happy?

Unless I'm convinced to do different, I plan do do what Gav did in his Tredia and use a choke cable to pull the breaker from the cab.
Image
Seems to me to be the neatest and discreet way do do it to me.
He shows it well in his videos which ca be seen here
KIWIEV
It comes up at the 7 minute mark of the vid.


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Post by CometBoy »

Thanks David,

I was under the impression they required an industry standard emergency push bottom style safety switch. The BIG red button type. Like this one on Zeva’s site... https://www.zeva.com.au/store.php?product=38.

Are they happy to accept a standard circuit breaker in its place?

Someone told me they thought it needed to be accessed from outside the vehicle and clearly marked? I’m not sure if that’s actual correct?

Help ev1!

Evric thanks for that tip! I will be getting one tomorrow and beat the EV rush on them....

David are you fitting an inertia switch?? In my “Statement of Requirements” documentation with the department I stated I would be fitting one... Thought it was needed back then?

Cheers

Bruce
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Post by CometBoy »

Hi DVR,

Nice photo!

I sure hope you are right and it will be acceptable. It is a very tidy solution. But think they may be after a “fool proof” emergency safety switch, clearly viewable to emergency services personnel...

Bruce
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Post by DVR »

That's getting pretty specific concidering "BULLETIN 74" is pretty vague on this.


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Post by CometBoy »

Yes, hence the original question:

Has anyone recently had an EV project through Regency? Maybe ev1?? I am wondering about the positioning of the main battery circuit breaker or “Master Switch” as per Bulletin 74 and what will keep them happy?

Cheers

Bruce
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Post by DVR »

"INFORMATION BULLETIN 74" States under tyhe heading "controls"

"A master switch for isolating the power supply to the motor and it's control apparatus must be located within easy reach of the driver. The master switch must isolate all electrical connections to the power source. If not flameproof design, the switch shall not be placed within a battery compartment. It must be operable by direct mechanical action and must not rely on any electrical or electromechanical device."

There's no mention of outside access and is specifically says within easy reach of the driver, so that means inside. No mention of a big red stop button either.


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Post by evric »

If you modify a circuit breaker by drilling holes and using cables to it the authorities may think that the circuit breaker may not work as it should and not allow it.
Eric.
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