Hi everybody,
Let's see if I can get my head around this thread. Basically for any series string that is getting up in voltage (mine will be 600VDC), you have to consider some safety measures. This should be done irrespective of the law and be in consideration for Joe Anybody to drive and operate the car without safety concerns with regards to accidental electrocution. This may be a stranger, friend, or family member - none of whom may have any idea how the car works under the hood, nor have an appreciation of the danger of HVDC busses.
The question is, how do you make a 600V HVDC bus safe? (or for that matter even a 144V HVDC bus) There are several issues to consider:
1/ Insulation breakdown on the HVDC pack (due to accidental contact, or bad wiring, or aged insulation on wires)
Methods that have been discussed so far include
a) using an RCD on a floating HVDC pack
- the floating pack requires a short at two points on the HVDC pack to chasis for a short to occur
- this method is a bit pointless as it doesn't warn if there is 1 short to the chasis, but also will not trip if there are two shorts in the middle of the pack to the chasis.
- it will only trip if there is a leak "after" the RCD, but there is a substantial area "before" the RCD where the problem could still occur and go undetected.
b) using an earth leakage detector with a hard earth to the chasis at the middle of the HVDC pack
- this is one step better in that (if the correct EL swich is used)it will be able to sense a fault current in the chasis and either give a warning or shut down the main pack contactors and also open the breakup contactors.
- however this requires a fast acting solution that ensures that the fault current is detected fast enough and reacts well. ie. specialised hardware which will cost money.
- if a single short occurs whilst driving, may cause a dangerous situation where the pack may be disconnected and the car isn't able to limp to the kerbside. This implies less redundancy and potential for added danger.
c) using a soft connection (high impedance) to the chasis, at any point on the HVDC pack (might as well be centre?)
- this would seem the best combination. Here you still need two points before a short occurs, but if there is one short to the chasis, you will be given a warning and still retain the control of the vehicle, perhaps in a limp mode?
- doesn't break the circuit however if there are two shorts and relies on fuses blowing for protection? Could be wired so that if a fuse does blow, the breakup contactors WILL break the pack down to safe voltages automatically.
2/ Excessive short currents
- fuses will be essential to stifle fault currents caused by direct shorts to chasis. They also act as fall back system as long as the fault current is beyond its current rating.
- I'm leaning towards each battery module (mine will be 48V modules) to include a fuse, perhaps in a common fusebox for easy inspection and access.
3/ Breakup contactor ratings and kill sequence
- breakup contactors are likely to be much lower rated than total pack voltage. So it is important to ensure that the main HVDC contactors trip first before the battery modules are broken up. This will avoid damaging the breakup contactors if the fault currents were to occur during high load currents (motor accelerating). If an arc is sustained on the breakup contactors/relays, a fire may start as a result.
- the main contactors cannot stop a short across battery modules internally, hence why fuses on each battery module is important. Either that or ensure that the module relay/contactor will reliably break the arc at worst case short circuit currents (may start to get expensive!),
- however a high resistance short via the chasis might result in the fault currents that is significant, but under the fuse rating - hence this could cause deep discharge of the battery pack and/or excessive heating leading perhaps to a fire. The battery breakup relays thus need to be rated to at least the fuse rating (or higher) so that when the user removes the key and the breakup relays release, it doesn't cause a potential arcing problem that may lead to a fire.
That's my summary (and a few additional ideas), flame away ...