Cutting Pipe

Technical discussion on converting internal combustion to electric
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EV2Go
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Cutting Pipe

Post by EV2Go » Sun, 11 Apr 2010, 00:05

Hey guys, the EV grin has finally started to kick in and I am started to get excited about my little project.

Now that I have a motor and controller are almost sorted, I am eager to start on the next phase of the build, the chassis.

I have thoughts on how I should approach this but it would be unwise if I didn't seek the advise of my peers first.

The main issue is how to cut the round tube for the chassis. I have had a number of ideas but the one I am the most set on is.

Buy a decent drill press... found a good one for $369 at Glenford Tools
Buy a Rotabroach $150 from local milling supply shop (or cheaper on ebay)

I was originally thinking of using a hole saw but after looking at the Rotabroach I thought that would do a neater job of scoloping the pipe so they can be butt up against each other prior to welding.

Is there an easier way you can think off? or have I already stumbled on a workable solution?

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Post by Speedily » Sun, 11 Apr 2010, 01:12

how about one of these bend and cut

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Post by EV2Go » Sun, 11 Apr 2010, 01:29

Awfully damn tempting... $390 plus blades is a bit much for a one off project but... hmmm I'm going to give it some serious thought.

Edit:

One thing concerns me though, they only show pipes smaller than the primary pipe. Most of the pipes I want to join are the same size so it would break off during drilling.
Last edited by EV2Go on Sat, 10 Apr 2010, 15:31, edited 1 time in total.

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Post by Speedily » Sun, 11 Apr 2010, 01:44

I used to have one and the bender wish i didn't sale them now Image

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EV2Go
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Post by EV2Go » Sun, 11 Apr 2010, 03:11

Thinking about it that is not so far off what I was originally thinking.

I was originally thinking of putting the pipe straight in the vice, but with a bit of C channel and 8 U bolts and nuts I could create a pipe holder at a whole lot less money.

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Post by EV2Go » Sun, 11 Apr 2010, 04:56

Slight revision... remove the vice and bolt the C Channel directly to base plate, it's one less thing to move.

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Post by Tritium_James » Sun, 11 Apr 2010, 13:13

Drill some holes in the base plate for your u-bolts and you might be able to ditch the c-channel too.

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Post by EV2Go » Sun, 11 Apr 2010, 15:23

yeah only problem with that is it would wind up putting a flat on the pipe on the side that is sitting against the base plate.

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Post by EV2Go » Sun, 11 Apr 2010, 20:24

Another revison...

I think this should hold it fairly solidly for a clean cut.

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Edit:

Just realised it wouldn't need to be rectangle, still be box, just a longer piece.
Last edited by EV2Go on Sun, 11 Apr 2010, 10:26, edited 1 time in total.

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Post by EV2Go » Mon, 12 Apr 2010, 19:45

Went out and did a bit of shopping this morning...

Was planning on buying smaller box section but they had some 200W x 100H box so I got 150mm (Long) (4mm thick)

Being 200mm wide I figured it would just make a long piece of pipe more stable.

Also got a couple of 25mm long 12mmx40mm flat bar, and some 2mm? x 40mm

Looking at the 2 x 40 flat bar I thought it might be a bit thick to wrap around the pipe so I went to Bunnings and got some 190mm x 75mm nail plate which I will trim back to 40mm

bought 4 x 40mm M6 bolts to go sideways through the bigger pieces of flatbar.

Also bought half of meter of test pipe to see how it bends / cuts once I work out what bender to buy.

Just ordered some Rotabroaches from the UK, so hopefully they won't be too long. Also bought a new drill press to do all the work with.

Got up early this morning for the MotoGP so this is not a today job I am falling asleep as I type.

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Post by EV2Go » Wed, 14 Apr 2010, 04:16

Did a bit of bolt shopping today... bought 4 x M16 nuts and bolts and 4 x 1/2" washers and some 19mm OD pipe.

I now know why Kearon calls me mr overengineering man. When I was looking at all the nuts and bolts today, all the washers for each specfic size bolt seemed really sloppy.

So I decided to get smaller ID washers than the bolts I had, and drill them out to suit the bolt perfectly.

Also not being content using 16mm bolts in an 18mm track on the drill press, I was compelled to make up some 1mm bushes to make them fit perfectly.

After trial fitting the first two bolts that are fitted diagonally, I decided 4 x 16mm bolts is just overkill even in my book.

Also decided if I only use two bolts, that way I can move the pipe holder diagonally across the plate and do both a 1" and a 1.25" holes, if I use all 4 bolts it locks it into the center only allowing me one size hole.
Last edited by EV2Go on Tue, 13 Apr 2010, 18:19, edited 1 time in total.

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Cutting Pipe

Post by Carv'n Marv'n » Wed, 14 Apr 2010, 19:45

...rather than use a drill 'rig', would you consider cutting the joins with a grinder - the ol' fashioned way... can be done very neatly.

Before making my frame, i made a full scale PVC pipe model hot glued. Was a good exercise (and cheap), it forced me to make jigs and practice cutting joins etc. very similar to fabricating steel/chromolly. A good jig is well worth the effort.

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Post by EV2Go » Wed, 14 Apr 2010, 23:51

Funny you should say that I contemplated making it out of PVC first, but thought

I wouldn't be able to get the right bend angles
I wouldn't be able to get the sizes I want
It would be too expensive.

How much is cheap?, you have done such a good job I might rethink it.

A grinder is too primative when you are trying to join tube at any kind of angle.

Even with nice cuts I was concerned about leaving too big a gap to weld up. Think I should be right now.

All I need to do now is bore the holes in the sides once the rotabroaches come from the UK, clean it up and throw on some paint.

Nearly there...

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Post by Carv'n Marv'n » Thu, 15 Apr 2010, 14:18

...bed angles are reasonably simple - but you'd need to make a jig - or be content for the sake of the model to use the angled joining sections. I had the curve sections drawn on paper at full scale, pasted that to a sheet of ply, and used a series of wooden choks stuck to that, defining the curve, to slot the pipe between. Fill the pipe with clean sand, and use a hot air gun to soften the pvc. Slot it into the jig when it's in it's flexi state and then let it cool. Helps to have a couple of quick clamps on hand too.
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Post by EV2Go » Thu, 15 Apr 2010, 19:51

To be honest I don't know if a mock up would really work for me... I am not a fine detail person so I couldn't think out the last detail before I started.

For some strange reason ideas come to me as I am doing it on the go. I think it's because the creative side of my mind doesn't kick in until I am actually holding the bit of pipe, then one idea leads to another to another until I get to my final idea.

While this does eventually lead to some good ideas, it does create a lot of waste.

I did plan to use jigs though, I came across this picture while searching for trike stuff quite some time ago. So I thought I would use the picture to jog my memory come build time.

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Post by Carv'n Marv'n » Thu, 15 Apr 2010, 21:23

thats the sh*t.
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Post by seligtype3 » Thu, 10 Mar 2011, 01:57

Speedwerx is the only place I've found in VIC that sell good fine tooth hole saws, so much better for notching tube. My tube notcher is good but I find myself doing fish mouths with an angle grinder more often than not. I've got 500ish lengths of 28.6mm OD - 1mm high tensile steel that need to be used, probably not heavy enough for your trike unless you went all Maserati on it. Image
Last edited by seligtype3 on Wed, 09 Mar 2011, 14:58, edited 1 time in total.
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Post by Speedily » Thu, 10 Mar 2011, 02:30

use a step drill its not as good but a lot cheaper than speedwerx tube notcha

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Post by EV2Go » Fri, 11 Mar 2011, 05:18

seligtype3 wrote: Speedwerx is the only place I've found in VIC that sell good fine tooth hole saws, so much better for notching tube. My tube notcher is good but I find myself doing fish mouths with an angle grinder more often than not. I've got 500ish lengths of 28.6mm OD - 1mm high tensile steel that need to be used, probably not heavy enough for your trike unless you went all Maserati on it. Image
I was actually planning to go over the top, but a few months ago I got talking to a guy who runs a top fuel bike and his chassis was made from 1" CrMo, so I have decided to scale back the bigger piping.

I will still want to run a decent wall thickness, but won't be going over the top with bar work like I first planned. I am also very concious of keeping the weight under the regulated 450kgs.


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