cables

Technical discussion on converting internal combustion to electric
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jpcw
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Post by jpcw » Fri, 11 Apr 2008, 03:30

Hi Guy's.
Well after a significant delay I'm almost ready. I've gotten most of the metalwork done and I'm ready to hook up for a test drive. I need a little advice on the cables for the main battery bank.

The setup is
* 120V's of lead acid batteries
* 120V 600A zapi controler
* Small car but with 550kg of batteris
* only 400A contactors so will have to limt the current for now (assuming the batteries will deliver that much anyway)

What's my best be for the cables between batteries and to the motor?

“The best way to predict the future is to invent it,” Alan Kay 1971

jpcw
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Post by jpcw » Fri, 11 Apr 2008, 03:38

Would 800amp jumper leads do? I've just found a 4.5M set for $65


Edit. Maybe not "Copper Cabling underneath casing: 5mm in diameter" 5mm sounds way to thin to me for 800Amp
Last edited by jpcw on Thu, 10 Apr 2008, 17:41, edited 1 time in total.
“The best way to predict the future is to invent it,” Alan Kay 1971

zeva
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Post by zeva » Fri, 11 Apr 2008, 03:51

G'day John, good to hear the Charade conversion is going well.

If it were me, with a setup like that I'd go for 50mm^2 welding cable, which is approximately the same size as 0 gauge (AWG) wire. And just a reminder, legally all your high voltage lines (anything above 36V) have to have orange insulation. (Yes, you can get such cable from ZEVA Image similar price to those jumper leads by the sound of it)

Also, WAEVA has a "loaner" hydraulic crimping tool for attaching lugs to heavy cable.

Depending on what sort of terminals your batteries have and the way they're arranged, some people just use solid copper strips between the batteries, which is easier than crimping lugs onto a dozen very short cables! Make sure they have a bit of flex in them though (e.g a semicircle bend in the middle, not just a straight bar) so if the batteries jostle about it won't put too much load on the terminals.
Ian Hooper
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acmotor
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Post by acmotor » Fri, 11 Apr 2008, 04:28

Ian, what about 6sq mm (can't find superscript) in orange for my EV ?
I couldn't find any so I put the wires in orange conduit.

And why only orange ? I have both positive and negative terminals on my batteries and on my battery packs. I know Ncop14 suggests orange. Maybe we need black and orange stripes (Buzz) for negative.

BTW there is no high voltage in EV's, even mine. It is classified as low voltage by the electrical industry. Maybe call it traction power wiring. I have been corrected on this on more than one occasion.
For EV's sake we should not get in the habbit of calling it H...V..

Good advice re flexi joining bars ! a lot cheaper than lugs. Image
iMiEV MY12     110,230km in pure Electric and loving it !

jpcw
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Post by jpcw » Fri, 11 Apr 2008, 04:48

Great. Expect a email from me later about the cable :) I have a tame electrician who has a hydrolic crimper so no problem there, although now that you remind me I need to get some lugs as well. I've also got access to a sheet metal worker and workshop so might go for the bar between batteries, although he's so flat out I could be waiting weeks for him.
“The best way to predict the future is to invent it,” Alan Kay 1971

zeva
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Post by zeva » Fri, 11 Apr 2008, 04:57

Tuarn: Yeah the orange stuff is hard to find, isn't it! All welding cable is now orange jacketed so I'll make some enquiries about thinner stuff from my supplier. Altronics do have 14ga in orange but that's going to be far too small for power circuits.

It kind makes sense that both positive and negative need to be orange because -120V is just as dangerous as +120V (just depends where the ground reference is).. But I agree, for clarity negative lines should be black and orange. I actually used a big permanent marker to paint a black stripe down the orange negative lines in the MX5 so I don't get them mixed up!
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Post by jpcw » Fri, 11 Apr 2008, 05:12

zeva wrote: so I don't get them mixed up!

Ouch!
“The best way to predict the future is to invent it,” Alan Kay 1971

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Post by zeva » Sat, 12 Apr 2008, 00:57

Just a quick update, the orange insulated welding cable is available in the following sizes: 16, 25, 35, 50, 75 and 95 (all in mm^2 of copper conductor).

At present I have the 50 and 95 here, generally I'd recommend 50mm^2 for folks running ~500A controllers (the most common by far) and 95mm^2 for ~1000A controllers. I might get a spool of the 16 and 25 in stock soon as well for lower-current applications like motorbikes/golf carts/AC systems/etc.

Would the 16 be unnecessarily big for the Suzuki, Tuarn?
Ian Hooper
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