Honda Integra Si 1989 conversion

Technical discussion on converting internal combustion to electric
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MikeG
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Honda Integra Si 1989 conversion

Post by MikeG » Mon, 01 Jun 2009, 15:36

Hi. I have sourced a 1989 Honda Integra Si Automatic, which is in good condition except for the IC Engine which has a serious bottom end knock.

I'm looking for suggestions for the conversion. (its not going to be a high performance conversion)

I am leaning towards an AC motor and controller, as these tend to have a better powerband.

What are the arguments for going DC? Are there any DC motors/controllers that have overrun/overspeed protection???

The Integra weighs around 1150kg as-is, so I'm guessing it will weigh a little more converted.

Range needs to be 100km max, will consider less... I could get away with 50 if I had to.

Budget is extremely limited so I think I'll try and work with 50km range as the batteries are the most expensive part, yes?

I guess I'll need to source an manual gearbox as the auto will be way too inefficient, yes? Or is it possible to hack the gearbox to get direct access to the front diff??? Surely I can do reverse electrically rather than mechanically...

The car has alot of electric accessories (windows, sunroof, mirrors etc) so I guess I should have a beefy 12V accessory battery if I also need to power electric A/C and or heating (heating is 100% required in Canberra with its freezing winters).

I'm considering converting headlamps to HID and all other lamps to LED. Has anyone had any experience with Hondas? Are the elctric compatible with low power lighting, or do they play up (much like my Nissan 200SX with LED taillights - I need to keep an incandescant high mount stop light to act as a ballast)

Thanks in advance.

P.S. Are hub motors viable??? I really would prefer RWD if possible.

Mike.
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antiscab
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Real Name: Matthew Lacey
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Honda Integra Si 1989 conversion

Post by antiscab » Thu, 11 Jun 2009, 05:28

Gday Mike,

you could hack the original auto tranny to get access to the diff (thats what the AC-propulsion guys did)
real question is, do you have a good engineering workshop handy?

batteries are the most expensive part when you are looking for 100km range. at 50km range, you might be back in lead acid territory (though id still go lithium)

if you dont mind less than stellar performance,
id suggest ditching the original transmission all together and getting an Azure AC24LS system and their gear box.

lotsa accessories would mean a decent dc-dc. before you go and buy anything, go to your car now, turn everything on and use a clamp meter to see what the maximum load is. get a dc-dc thats bigger than that.

i havent seen a decent hub motor setup for a car yet.
biggest thing to worry about is unsprung weight.
aside from killing handling, it also destroys suspension components.

Matt
Matt
2017 Renault zoe - 25'000km
2007 vectrix - 156'000km
1998 prius - needs Batt
1999 Prius - needs batt
2000 prius - has 200 x headway 38120 cells

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