AEVA Forums

Finished this part. I'll have to get to the chassis mounts tomorrow.
It seems to be held in position quite well and spins freely, but I will be using some locktite for sure.

Knocked this up before work. Might finally get a chance to drop the motor-gearbox into the engine bay and size up the last two chassis mounts this weekend.

Much nicer - 13 mm and some coarse thread should hold it in place. At a pinch I might be able to fit a jam nut on the back, but it's window dressing really. I will drill and tap these tomorrow, and band-saw off the corner.

Good call - I have some nickel based stuff that would work well.

All good - I'm sourcing a 13 mm thick bit of aluminium which can be tapped directly - less room for mis-alignment that way too.

francisco.shi wrote: ↑

Thu, 27 Jun 2019, 08:08

I am assuming the problem is you drilled the holes for the bolt size so now you can't put a thread on it?

Bingo.

Nah, I have access to some machine tools today, I'll just make up a 13 mm thick block and tap it. That should be enough meat to keep it steady.

Sorry I wasn't clear in my post. My problem is there is no room for the nuts on the back. An alternative is to use countersunk bolts in the opposite direction but then I would have to assemble the midshaft-end plate unit as one, making repairs very difficult.

Haha, whoops. I got too excited, put my spacer plate in there, transfer-punched the centres and drilled them out. Went to bolt it all up and realised I don't actually have enough bolt poking out the other side, let alone room for a nut! So I will have to re-make this backing plate out of 10 mm steel...

Hi all, Elisa Millar from Nissan Australia called me to share this with our members - if your first Gen Leaf is showing signs of depleted range (SOH of 8 bars or less) it may be replaced with a new battery of 24 kWh for about $10k. You can't keep the old pack as part of the deal. *** Dear Capacity o...

All depends on where you end up living and how far you need to travel, and how often. Which city/town will you land in?

Seems 4 mm is exactly the right amount of spacing required to get the shaft to sit at the right fore/aft neutral spot. I've found the same sweet spot for up and down too.

Sadly a familiar story... They just can't keep up with demand.

250 Wh/km is at the very bad end of the scale - more likely it will be around 200 Wh/km, affording about 100 km. Yeah, and these NMC cells are more sensitive to heat. One solution is to mount the cells on an aluminium cooling plate and pulling cooled cabin air across them in addition to what the coo...

What is the vehicle it's going in again? 20 kWh of prismatic NMC will cost about $7k - could be what you're chasing?

If a Leaf battery can be replaced for $9000 including GST and labour it's a pretty good deal. Even using prismatic NMC you're looking at about $12,000 in cells and easily a few thousand in labour.

I machined the edge nice and flat so the two parts bolted up square.

Next step is to add the spacer plate and mount the bearing to it. Going to have to use countersunk bolts with the nuts on the outside I think.

Hi Terry, The plan is to bolt this plate to the end of the motor, and then bolt the bearing support plate to the face plate. The exact position will be in the centre of movement of the mid shaft, with the spacing set accordingly. At this end it has about 5 mm of free play in all directions. Fortunat...

Congratulations Mike!

soyachips wrote: ↑

Wed, 19 Jun 2019, 20:11

@jonescg I had no idea you could get copper cut so cheap. That's like 1/2 the price I could find on eBay just for the material! Who's your supplier?

Intracut here in Perth. Mind you, 1.8 c per mm means a part like this: Cost about $9 each...

Well now at least the passenger side motor mount and mid shaft support plate are done. It needs about 5 mm of plate aluminium to space it out, or alternatively, a piece of 15 mm plate (preferred). Once this is together and the shaft is supported, we can drop it in the engine bay and mount the last t...

Richo wrote: ↑

Tue, 18 Jun 2019, 13:02

Normally a jet cutter charges for the time+material.
They should stock 3mm copper plate.

I actually find supply + cut cheaper than me supplying material. I get 2 mm copper cut up all the time - it works out to about 1.8 c per mm of cut.

Agreed about the GOM's accuracy - I was counting the 5 km intervals as we approached each town and comparing that to the range remaining, and it more or less tracked it point for point. On a few occasions the GOM was pessimistic, but we'd gone up some slight inclines, only to recover those missing k...

I only noticed the guess-o-meter when I went up Welshpool road in the Perth hills - I lost 20 km of range in about 6 km while gaining 240 m in altitude.
CanZE would no doubt be far more informative than the screen in the car.

Looks good - my only real issue with the Zoe was a need for DC fast charging. But an extra 10 kWh will help add a good 40 km of range on the highway.

@acmotor has some experience I believe. I suspect the power ratings are somewhat arbitrary, as it literally depends on the wind. so 400 W might be a safe continuous rating? 1.5 kW peaks in gusts?