AEVA Forums

Is the Gold Coast your nearest Mitsubishi dealer - or is that the nearest one that is "certified" on EVs? I'm not too concerned about most of the service items. The main service item seems to be to change the coolant at 100K. Otherwise it's the cabin air filter, and filling the wiper fluid. I've got...

This didn't happen from standard operating procedure. This is the result of an accidental short across the terminals from a multimeter that was plugged into the current shunt instead of the voltage socket. There was an arc-flash and lots of burnt carbon to clean off the rear quarter panel. So, yes i...

Yes, it had one, but the main positive and negative pins are charred (and I think destroyed). I don't want to test that on a public charger and damage the charger. I've never had an impetus to replace it since there were no chademo chargers within range.

P.S. Be careful with high voltage DC.

So I never thought there would be a compatible fast charger within range of home for the i-miev. But the NRMA has opened a public fast charger with a Chademo port near my work! I'm hoping to track down an i-miev chademo port spare part, so I can try it out. I believe I think have found the part on a...

We repaired our charger. The dealer was going to replace the EV ECU first, since it is less expensive, and then the charger. Total cost would have been around $6000. The parts for the repair were under $100. Diagnosing the fault is reasonably straight forward - once the cover is off the charger ther...

Apparently the register used to transmit battery capacity as a can packet only reads 0-60Ah (BMU Item 23/24 http://mmc-manuals.ru/manuals/i-miev/online/Service_Manual/2013/54/html/M154945550005600ENG.HTM ). I think the 45Ah threshold is where they want it to calibrate to after cycling a new pack for...

I'm fairly sure that mmcmanuals site is a copy of what is on the imiev service manual disks, adapted to not require internet explorer and be compatible with other browsers.
I mucked around with the disc files bit and got pages very similar to what is up there.

hmm... Depends on what it does above that value.... if it overflows to the negative it would certainly give the fuel gauge and guess o meter a hard time.

But it might still drive OK until it hits a voltage limit?

On a minicab I'm not sure. On the hatchback there is a relay under the back seat, which fires the quick charge contactor when the coil is activated. The circuit needs to be completed via an earth pin in the chademo circuit. However, this won't trigger the chedemo handshake to get the EV ECU into "re...

You can tap into the fast charge relay and trigger it to close manually, which closes the fast charge contactor's and gives a direct connection to the pack from the chademo port. It might confuse the state of charge calculation if the EV ECU isn't active and monitoring current flows though. But I ca...

Just trying to find some info on the replacement troubles and how they were overcome. I think Larry's was a whole pack replacement? From what I can understand of it, the troubles were the car firmware not being compatible with the pack firmware. This makes me think you wouldn't see this problem if y...

A 15k quote from Mitsubishi seems reasonable: https://www.amayama.com/en/part/mitsubishi/9450a021 However I'm hoping there are better options when out imiev doesn't have the range we need anymore. My interim plan is to get a charger installed at work. Beyond that I'm quite interested in higher capac...

We wanted to remove one bus bar that was in the way of where we were working. However one end of it was quite close to another bus bar, so we tried to carefully loosen the bolt, but found we were burring it. However if one was removing all the bus bars, you can start from the more accessible ones on...

Best commute to work I've had in a while this morning!

Also I have a pretty good handle on how I'd go about replacing the cells, after seeing the way the pack goes together.

You may be right.

But i think I've learnt enough to fix it all myself now!

Also found the charger is significantly cheaper at amayama!

We've successfully repaired the pre-charge circuit by fitting a 22Ω 200W resistor. We initially ordered a 50W unit, but it just looked physically less robust than the manufacturer part.

The car is now charging again.

After a few wrong turns and detours our imiev is now fully charged again! Hurrah!

Without the detours we needed to replace two capacitors in the charger, and the on board charger (OBC) fuse in in the motor inverter. Knowing what I now know it should be a weekend job.

Good to hear it is back on the road. I hope it goes to a good home.

When I think of SMDs, I'm thinking of the tiny components that solder direct to a PCB - but I guess in a very literal way this is a surface mount device also, just onto a larger surface! That notation makes a lot of sense on smaller components with limited space. I guess to save confusion(?) they've...

I'm familiar with resistor colour charts, but is there some kind of reference for numeric codes? I'm sure I've seen ceramic resistors with the actual values written on.

The grey stuff was like mortar - probably a good thermal buffer.

We identified a ground fault in the DC-DC converter, which could have drawn a bit through it.

But I can't figure out is the 240K a model number? Or is there some kind of Roman numeral notation going on here where the K cancels out the zero?

Ok, so we got the pack out of the car, and after a few layers of disassembly we got to the pre-charge resistor. It's labelled 240KAG 40W "JRH", but 240kΩ on 360V is nowhere near 40W. The part was open circuit so we couldn't measure it's value. We broke it apart to see what was inside, found burnt wi...

Great news! I've no doubt you are looking forward to a drive.

The discharge/bleed resistor is 15W 68K Ω. Based on 8000uF I calculate around 41 Ω, and around 3240W of power. So with a pulse power rating of 25 we need 129W, which means a 150W part. 100 Ω 100W is still in the ballpark though. At this stage the access to the hoist might not be so time sensitive, s...

I've got some imagery of the capacitor. I believe it reads 8000F, but it's a bit unclear, it could be 800uF.