AEVA Forums

Wow, we can blame the 12V battery for a lot of ills apparently!

Once the charging session starts, the DC-DC converter should keep the voltage up, but I suppose without enough voltage the car can't quite get to that point.

I think BeeWBee may be talking about a type2 (Mennekes) to type 1 (J1772) adapter? I would have thought if it works on the Mitsubishi EVSE (cable with brick) and a 3rd party wall charger (Siemens) it should have the PWM signalling (or at least the control pilot resistor) required to work on a public...

For reference I have a 2010 imiev. I read at some stage and was able to reset or clear (or the car cleared it automatically): - P0A0A Inter lock SW - P1A10 OBC power supply circuit low - P1A15 High voltage circuit (1) - P0A09 DCDC converter fail (1) - P1A14 Quick CGH. contactor circuit low I remembe...

I was able to connect an i909 to our imiev and reset HVDC fault codes. This was sufficient for the charger repair, and also replacement of the pre-charge resistor due to a botched charger repair. I think some of the menu items resulted in a comms error, but I just assumed we didn't have that particu...

I suspect he meant "Level 2" (i.e. public AC charge, not home charging), rather than the phyiscally different plug (as the 2010 imiev's don't have the ability to communicate with the EVSE even with the right plug)? I'm interested to see how you go. I'm planning to get a wall mounted EVSE here for th...

14.5mm? Is that a pouch cell?

Edit: the pilot processing hardware may be missing from the 2011 chargers, but then how can that mob offer a harness that fixes the problem? I think with the modified harness, it's just enough to convince the EVSE a car is there and to close a contactor. I don't think the car then reads the control...

That the brick reduces charge current on MY12+ but not 2010s tells me that the 2010 charger ignores the signal from the EVSE about how much current it should draw. As I understand it, all the 2010 mods are just enough to fool an EVSE to turning the juice on. They don't make the charger smarter, but ...

I wouldn't be able to set a timer accurately enough to hit 95%, given the length of time needed also varies. I did briefly play with a raspberry pi connected to the OBD port to monitor charging and somehow trigger a charging stop but I could never reliably get it to read the messages and track charg...

I reckon you could get to 120 or more by leaving your location and descending to a much lower altitude with regen (but should you ever do that??). We do this on our work commute, the regen slowly tapers off as the battery reaches max state of charge. I'm not sure it is great for the battery, and I ...

I did at some point come across a recall notice for the charger issue on Mitsubishi Japan's website. Google translate indicated it was because "capacitors may crack"... To me it sounded like there was a problem in the chargers prior to the recall that is suspiciously similar to the problem in the ch...

I don't know exactly what grounds they agreed to replace it, but quite likely the main factor was that the charger had been replaced in a recall about 18 months before the failure. My charger failed within 18 months of the recall replacement, and my suggestions to the dealer that it should last at ...

As a quick test you could wire in a more readily available fuse holder with eyelets, and either stuff it under the inverter cover or just leave it hanging out. Obviously longer term that's not vibration proof and might have insulation rub bare.

I was thinking it's only 3 years lifetime at one cycle per day, or four years for one cycle per weekday.

Although I guess our imievs capacity is more like 35ah now, so what is a full cycle on the old cells would be a half a cycle on 70ah cells.

Max voltage 4.2, and the imiev charges to just under 4.1.
Looking closer they are only quoted for 1000 cycles at 0.2C rate... So you might have to be quite gentle with them.

I have some photos from the process of replacing the blown capacitors in our charger. Unfortunately I'm also the originator of the precharge resistor thread, as we got some wires crossed when putting it back together. It's actually relatively easy to remove the charger, definitely a lot easier than ...

I agree that it is best to sell the car unmodified, unless it is sold directly to an owner who is taking it on as a project. Then I guess hope to find a good buyer for the cells as home energy storage. They'd be a lot easier to put together than thousands of 18650s. If there was another test project...

Might not be original battery?

If I'm not mistaken these are much shorter (115->85), about the same width (44->43), but slightly longer (171->173)?
I supposed if there are 2mm leeway on the width, it should be possible to pack the rest of the space out. Presumably there is a weight saving along with a capacity gain!

Cells of the same dimensions would really help - regardless of the capacity. The samsung SDI 94Ah cells are not far off. Would definitely shave them down to 80Ah to get a cell the right dimensions and be really happy. One thought a friend put to me was to construct an entirely new subframe and pack ...

That is a darn good price on the panels. I might have to start frequenting auctions!

I've never used the in car navigation on any vehicle, happy to just use my phone which has live updates anyway. Are you following the instructions at http://www.eclipse-web.com/au/avn726ea_mapupdates/step01.html? Which part are you getting stuck on? I could try to run through it - an update might be...

I can't find the 78Ah model you refer to, but those dimensions seem ideal, and 78Ah would be a good step up without wasting too much if the BMS only recognises 60ah.

EVbatmon reports 36.8Ah, which I think is pretty good.

If the monitoring units are not in the pack, I think that kills my plan of preparing the pack ready to swap so I don't have to take the car off the road for an extended period. Yes, it would definitely be better to get something closer. Not at all urgent - but I think I might really struggle next wi...