AEVA Forums

These are no-load resting voltage right? It's a very rough guide, but yes, that's pretty close.
If you load the cells up they will flatten out at 3.2 V per cell and more or less stay there till they fall off a cliff at 3.1 V.

Well that was a fairly productive weekend for this car. The weird thing with the fans threw me for half a day. No idea why I hadn't noticed it before. Maybe I never turned the car right off? 20190721_193439.jpg This was a close run thing - if you really stomp on the throttle you might hear a 'tink' ...

OK so I had a minor breakthrough - I pulled fuse 12, reset the system, and the problem went away. Because fuse 12 shares BLK/YEL it was probably getting a back feed. Since everything on fuse 12 is no longer needed (all ICE stuff) I'll just leave fuse 12 out. Strange I didn't notice this before thoug...

Hahahha! Yeah we all learn that once...

Interesting - I pulled the radiator fan relay out and sure enough it stops. But upon putting it back in it re-starts again. Might check for stray voltage and bad grounds...

If you have nothing to do this afternoon you're welcome to pop up!

Oh, and pulling fuse 17 does nothing - before or after turning the ignition on. What I do notice, is when I disconnect the battery (+) to stop the fan and reconnect a second later, the fan continues. If I disconnect and reconnect 2 second later, I hear one of the main relays in the under-hood fuse b...

Just confirmed when the thermoswitch circled in orange is shorted the fan comes on when the ignition is turned on, but so does the condensor fan. Upon turning the ignition off, only the condensor fan stops, while the radiator fan continues to spin. The only way to break this is to disconnect battery...

That cooling fan switch is the thermostat - normally hooked up to an NO thermostat, so once it goes above 90'C it conducts. I turned the car off, and the radiator fan fired up. I also noticed that the condensor fan fires up briefly but soon stops. While the fan was running (and the ignition was off)...

Hehe, well as always you find errors as you go along. I wired up the A/C system as drawn here with much discomfort (soldering painfully short wires upside down in a car footwell is awful) but when I turned the ignition to ON, the system fired up. That's not supposed to happen... Then I realised wha...

And that right there is the spirit of AEVA writ large
Looks like a fun time despite the cold. I'm about due for another conversion workshop day actually...

Front engine mount is done! We're almost ready to mount the motor permanently in the car :D Only upon removing the front engine mount bush did I discover it's shagged :x So until eBay delivers I will have to settle for a grinding and painting day. Front motor mount welded.jpg Front engine mount LHS....

They are all aluminium, but the problem is the output shaft needing to be as close to the swing arm pivot as practical to prevent squat under acceleration. You can put a jackshaft in place, but this bulks out the lower half of the frame, where you really want to be putting batteries. The Varley elec...

It's only there to prevent any roll, which there will be very little of. Most of the forces on the motor-gearbox assembly will be pitch; rapid acceleration and deceleration will cause the motor to twist a little.

Richo wrote: ↑

Fri, 19 Jul 2019, 12:40

Was it a local plating job?

Yep - Ultrachrome in Osborne Park. They do silver plating as well, but I reckon nickel plating would be a little cheaper and just as good.

Well the nickel plated aluminium worked well - nice finish and it takes 60:40 solder readily (with a 100 W+ iron). No peeling and the bond is strong. They have to clean it thoroughly, then acid clean, then apply a zinc surface before electroplating with a nickel sulfamate solution. I wouldn't make a...

g4qber wrote: ↑

Thu, 18 Jul 2019, 09:21

The gelco adaptor has a professionally done shortened type 2 plug.

AKA sharp hacksaw

Left hand side engine mount is done (less the grinding and black-painting). I will need to get the front one done - torsional movement will be fairly significant so it's wise to have it solidly mounted on all four sides. LHS Mount1.jpg LHS Mount 2.jpg Ignore the brass nuts - they were the only M10 n...

mikedufty wrote: ↑

Wed, 17 Jul 2019, 13:48

I'm surprised Chis hasn't mentioned the unexpected challenge that arose with trying to sell his GSXR chassis to go with a custom one. I guess its not very specific to electric.

I'd almost gotten over it. Thanks.

The motor in my car is an MES-DEA 200-250 which is manufacture by MES-DEA in Switzerland but purchased from Metric Mind in the USA. The selection and purchasing process is a bit convoluted and I could try to explain - alcohol would probably help. The motor specification sheet. http://forums.aeva.as...

Yeah, I'm getting some aluminium nickel plated as we speak - keen to see how it pans out. They use a sulfamate process which seems to make it stick quite well. If this is the case, then I could replace the 2 mm thick copper I use in my buslinks with 4 mm thick aluminium and have no fear of corrosion...

Well the trick is to never apply a financial reasoning - you will always lose and that metric makes it look really bad. It's best to do it for other reasons, none of them financial. Otherwise, awesome! Do it, you will never regret it. In my case, I got a custom chassis fabricated. The motor I wanted...

Yeah, that sounds about normal. The cold weather can't be helping either. A really good balance charge feature is a good choice for these cells. It prevents overcharging a cell and shortening it's service life even further.

Hack it. I think 10 mm was the magic number.

Wonderful to hear its working out for you David!

http://www.albusindustries.com/wp-conte ... USBARS.pdf

A very interesting read on aluminium and copper, and the application of nickel plating to both.