Ultralight PHEV x2

Post by **Ultralights** » Mon, 31 Oct 2016, 21:41

Firstly, is my road going Outlander PHEV, Non Aspire model.

and the new project car.

2014 Outlander PHEV Aspire. complete less right front strut and front bumpers and headlight.
everything else is there, and working, obviously there are errors when you turn it on, ABS and Stability errors with the missing front wheel, and collision mitigation system errors with the missing front radar.

everything else is there, battery is fine, and still 75% charged, engine, generator, both motors, and the leather interior.

We have already changed the electric heated and adjusted seats into my cloth interior PHEV, the electric adjustment works fine, the complete heated seat system is already there, switches swapped into my car, switches are powered and light up with the usual interior lighting, just need to tell the ECU that it now has electric heated seats... need a M.U.TIII programmer for that...

This will be a long term project, to get into the software, next to modify the battery for more capacity, if that is successful, then install upgraded battery into the road going, then use the spare battery as a powerwall, charge it from Solar, then use its capacity to charge my car without drawing from the grid at night, and eventually, install the running gear, Battery, motors, generator and engine into another car.... unsure of what that will be yet...

Post by **Ultralights** » Sun, 06 Nov 2016, 23:08

Started stripping the interior to get a better idea of how everything goes together.
starting from the rear.

On board charger and DC/DC converter on the left, and rear motor control unit on the right.

Battery Management unit on the guard, J1772 plug and charging door switches above it.

Wifi Module and antenna and the auto tailgate opening motor to the very left.

Post by **Johny** » Mon, 07 Nov 2016, 14:27

Phev owners looking on with extreme interest Robert.

Post by **reecho** » Tue, 08 Nov 2016, 03:21

Got the factory service manual yet??

Whoop there it is...

Service Manual

Keep us informed on a MUT3 clone for ETACS reprogramming.....VERY interested.....

Post by **Ultralights** » Tue, 08 Nov 2016, 22:00

That is a great site, already downloaded every manual from it.   its proving very useful.

Just need to get hold of an MUTIII programmer,   but waiting for un needed body panels to sell to pay for it.

apparently there is an ETACS reader encoder thats available for a lot less. still looking into that, and just what it can do, apparently it can change setting that are stored in the ETACS ECU.   (as mentioned here..(http://mitsubishiforum.com/forum/mitsub ... ion-40223/)

[ Edited Coulomb: corrected URL, made clickable. ]

Post by **Ultralights** » Wed, 16 Nov 2016, 00:41

Software time.

After learning we don't need a MUTIII programmer for a majority of the 12 volt software work, we ended up with a $19 Toyota Mini VCI to USB cable, its an OBD2 to USB cable, (j2534) and some software called ETACS decoder.

when we turn the car on, we are faced with a few errors.
The FCM warning is no surprise, as there is no front bumper and radar assembly.

Forward collision mitigation.

RBS.. dont know what this is yet.

EV system service

ACC Active cruise control

ASC, stability control

Using the ETACS decoder and J2534 connector, we have managed to change the ETACS software, to disable the FCM hardware, change it to a Not Present setting, hence, removing the FCM error.

unfortunately, the car has no right front strut, or wheel, and the wheel rotation sensor has been cut off, so, we cant remove the ACC and ASC warning, until we remedy that.

other interesting changes were the WIFI module, and with disabling and reactivating it. meaning we can install the WIFI module into our non wifi equipped car, and activate it.   though sadly we have to brute force find the password.
another hurdle with that is we dont have the SD card for the MMCS system, so we are unable to tell if any changes to the ETACS system are reflected by changed option on the MMCS screen in the centre.

other things we modified were things like rear wiper intermittent timings, varying the time between wipes, to test if the decoding software is working as intended, which it is.

so, next step is to copy the SD card within my roadgoing car, to get the MMCS working in the project car., and replace the front right strut and hub assy, to get the car rolling under its own power again, and remove the ASC and ACC problems.

from info gathered so far, all EV and high voltage functions are controlled by the PHEV ECU, and all chassis electrical is controlled by the ETACS ECU.

Edit..   after a bit more research, the RBS is the regenerative braking system.     and it appears that all of the errors are a result of the right front wheel rotational sensor being removed.    so fingers crossed, replacing that should remove all error codes, and get the car driving and moving as normal.     though some other info might suggest a MUTIII is required to match the new sensor to the car when its replaced... hope not.

Post by **a4x4kiwi** » Wed, 16 Nov 2016, 01:00

Wow. Great work.

I am off to get the cable...

It's a shame the WiFi password can not be reset!
Mal

Post by **reecho** » Wed, 16 Nov 2016, 02:20

Good work..!!

Hmm I think cable time for me as well..Got a link for the seller??

I'm sure MMAU can help with the WiFi password. You own the vehicle now legally.....

Post by **Johny** » Wed, 16 Nov 2016, 20:05

I tracked this down before I realised that the Standard PHEV didn't have Wi-fi. Might help.

http://www.mitsubishi-motors.com/en/pro ... jizen.html

Post by **Johny** » Wed, 16 Nov 2016, 20:38

Sorry that wasn't any help. Apparently though a Mitsu dealer can get the password if you give them the VIN.

Post by **Ultralights** » Wed, 16 Nov 2016, 23:06

yep, had a good look over that page, sadly its only on how to deregister devices that are linked to the wifi, max 2 permitted,
I bought another wifi module from the UK before i got hold of the wreck, and that will be the hard one to crack as i have no idea what the vin number would be, ill give mitsubishi a call about the wreck and its password.

Post by **Ultralights** » Wed, 14 Dec 2016, 22:42

Finally got hold of a front strut, hub, and sensor assembly, so soon, we will see how we go with the errors, and finally move the car under its own battery power.

Post by **Ultralights** » Thu, 22 Dec 2016, 01:06

Finally got it back on all 4's finding second hand PHEV parts are hard in Australia, fortunately the standard model has identical suspension components, including the wheel speed sensor!

installing the speed sensor removed every warning except the ASC warning, and bought up a new one, Brake system failure warning, not surprising, as we did lose a bit of brake fluid while installing the new brake caliper, so hopefully a quick bleed job will sort that out.

The EV systems service remains, will get to working on resetting what errors remain after bleeding the brakes, and see if we can get it into gear, since installing the wheel, sensor and everything, it now goes into neutral straight away, before it took a few attempts to get it to neutral.

The big plastic tank above the wheel is the vacuum storage tank.

One thing i did notice, with the reduced brake pressure, apart from the brake pedal hitting the floor, was that the vacuum pump fired in earnest, and worked overtime to get vacuum into the system. it didnt do this until the new sensor was installed.
Vacuum pump running
it also made quite a lot of noise, something i have heard on my road going PHEV before, but not as loud.

Once holidays arrive, we will get a lot more progress.

Post by **Ultralights** » Mon, 30 Jan 2017, 21:10

Just an minor update, i havnt had much time to play with the PHEV over the christmas holiday period, but yesterday managed to get the laptop out and do some research on the errors problems that are stopping the car from going into drive or reverse..

only 1 error left..

Collision detection Hi voltage cutoff. bugger..

Yes, the car was in a collision, a minor enough one to not fire off any airbags, but sadly enough to trigger the safety collision cutoff of the high voltage system... oh well, back to the internets for ways to remove or reset that error.

Post by **Ultralights** » Fri, 21 Apr 2017, 23:29

car has been sold, simply dont have the time left, with full time study, aircraft work, and full time work. :(

Post by **j4ck4l** » Thu, 05 Jul 2018, 05:08

Hey Guys,

Do anybody know that if my outlander phev (12.2013) originally not equipped with wifi module, is it possible to buy one (used) and put that in and connect to its interface (connector) and make it work?
Ive checked my car and found a white connector (16 pin 2x8) same location as ultralights has showed us by his picture of his wifi module.
Any idea?

: DSC_0691.JPG (1.72 MiB) Viewed 5174 times

Thank you!

Post by **Ultralights** » Thu, 19 Jul 2018, 20:37

In short, Yes it is possible.

What you need it the WiFi module (obviously), install it (there is a mount for the WiFi module and a seperate mount for the antenna near the window).

Once installed, you will need to head to your dealer, however if you know someone with a MUT III device they should be able to do this too. There is some options in the car that need to be turned on using this (or you can do that using the ETACS Decoder software from the Russian guy*). But there is one thing you have to have the MUT III device for, and that is to retrieve the password from the WiFi module, your dealer or someone with a MUT III device should be able to help you there. There is some instructions on how to do this floating around on the internet.

Once you have the password, you are set to go, just follow the instructions that can be found on the internet for connecting to the WiFi (requires the cars key), and then connect. The other cool thing is that once the WiFi module is all setup, extra functionality is revealed in the stereo, such as setting schedules for the aircon and charging.

* The ETACS Decoder software contains a crypto miner in it, which sucks, but if you are handy with your computer, setup a virtual machine, install Windows on it, disable all connection between the VM and the host computer, connect the VM to LAN or WiFi (do not bridge) and you will should be ok.

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