PIP-4048MS and PIP-5048MS inverters
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- weber
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Another rebadge of the PIP-4048MS. This time in the UK. http://www.voltacon.com/conversol-4-5kva
And another, in India. http://www.flinenergy.com/flinslim-mppt.html
And another. Various locations. http://www.opti-solar.com/english/pt_SP ... nt.en.html
Egypt. http://ptpt.puzl.com/puzl/files/174/238 ... 64f7ad.pdf
And another, in India. http://www.flinenergy.com/flinslim-mppt.html
And another. Various locations. http://www.opti-solar.com/english/pt_SP ... nt.en.html
Egypt. http://ptpt.puzl.com/puzl/files/174/238 ... 64f7ad.pdf
Last edited by weber on Sun, 17 May 2015, 18:02, edited 1 time in total.
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- offgridQLD
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So who is the original manufacturer in Taiwan?
MPP solar just another rebadge branding?
Kurt
MPP solar just another rebadge branding?
Kurt
- weber
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I have no reason to think that MPP Solar is not the manufacturer as they claim. In fact I think there are very good reasons to believe they are the manufacturer, such as the fact that they were the first to become known, have the plain grey cover, have all the manuals and that they offered to modify the software for sufficient quantity.
[Edit: But in fact MPP Solar is not the manufacturer. Voltronic Power is.]
[Edit: But in fact MPP Solar is not the manufacturer. Voltronic Power is.]
Last edited by weber on Mon, 18 May 2015, 05:31, edited 1 time in total.
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For my 3-phase system design, I'm working on the basis that the DC battery side is isolated from the AC grid side (for charging and discharging) - does this mean I can use 3 hybrid units, one on each phase of the 3-phase power, with common neutral lines, and a common battery system and EMS?!?
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gmacd33 wrote: For my 3-phase system design, I'm working on the basis that the DC battery side is isolated from the AC grid side (for charging and discharging) - does this mean I can use 3 hybrid units, one on each phase of the 3-phase power, with common neutral lines, and a common battery system and EMS?!?
Yes. As per this diagram in the directory I linked above.
[ Edited Coulomb: Added the below image from the "4KVA/5KVA Parallel Installation Guide", wanting to clean up most missing images in preparation for the conversion to phpBB ]
Last edited by coulomb on Mon, 17 Jul 2017, 07:23, edited 1 time in total.
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Sorry, I should have had a closer look at what I downloaded from that directory before I asked! :-O
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I'm pleased to announce that I am now a distributor for Giant Power, which are effectively the Australian-certified and -warranted version of the PIP-4048MS, as well as the grid-connected version (also with a few minor upgrades - see earlier pages of this topic). See http://www.giantpower.com.au/integrated-power-systems
If you are interested in buying one, send me a message! I'll be putting through an order in the next week or two - if you'd like to be part of that to save on delivery costs, let me know!.
If you are interested in buying one, send me a message! I'll be putting through an order in the next week or two - if you'd like to be part of that to save on delivery costs, let me know!.
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Has the manufacturer included lithium charging profiles yet?....or still flooded/gel??
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Lithium charging profiles are not really needed, because the float voltages can be adjusted for Lithium batteries to use the existing charge profiles.
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Hmm......thinking about the 2400W model for a little tinkering maybe....
A small setup in the shed for testing. I have 5KW solar and a generous feed in tariff for a while so no point in changing yet. But I'm getting a little keen....
A small setup in the shed for testing. I have 5KW solar and a generous feed in tariff for a while so no point in changing yet. But I'm getting a little keen....
- offgridQLD
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Just my thinking out loud. I would go for the 4000w 48v model vs the 2400w 24v model.
The 24v volt model has a tiny MPPT charger built In 25A x 24v (600w) so you can't put much back via solar in relation to how much the inverter can consume.The 4000w version has a 60A solar charger but at 48v - (3000w) that will go a long way in recovering your loads.
2400w max continuous doesn't go a long way powering a home or shed. Turn a 2nd load on while your boiling the kettle and it could trip the inverter. 48v has some advances to with lower current and smaller gauge wires.
Given the price difference isn't that much. The 48v - 4000w version might future proof the investment.
Kurt
The 24v volt model has a tiny MPPT charger built In 25A x 24v (600w) so you can't put much back via solar in relation to how much the inverter can consume.The 4000w version has a 60A solar charger but at 48v - (3000w) that will go a long way in recovering your loads.
2400w max continuous doesn't go a long way powering a home or shed. Turn a 2nd load on while your boiling the kettle and it could trip the inverter. 48v has some advances to with lower current and smaller gauge wires.
Given the price difference isn't that much. The 48v - 4000w version might future proof the investment.
Kurt
Last edited by offgridQLD on Mon, 25 May 2015, 03:32, edited 1 time in total.
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reecho wrote: I have 5KW solar and a generous feed in tariff for a while so no point in changing yet. But I'm getting a little keen....
Of course, reducing consumption is not changing your agreement re the generous geed in tariff. I suppose they could break their word, but it seems to me that moving part or even all of your loads to battery, possibly only using the mains for backup, absolutely should not affect that agreement, so you should not lose your feed in tariff. Without much load, the existing system will export a lot more energy (especially if it is a small system), and can produce a lot more income. This could offset the capital expenditure of a totally separate battery system.
MG ZS EV 2021 April 2021. Nissan Leaf 2012 with new battery May 2019.
5650 W solar, 2xPIP-4048MS inverters, 16 kWh battery.
Patching PIP-4048/5048 inverter-chargers.
If you appreciate my work, you can buy me a coffee.
5650 W solar, 2xPIP-4048MS inverters, 16 kWh battery.
Patching PIP-4048/5048 inverter-chargers.
If you appreciate my work, you can buy me a coffee.
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It's just for mucking around. No continuous loads initially. More of a backup for telly etc when power goes out.
So any idea what the Redflow ZBM modules are worth to buy??
So any idea what the Redflow ZBM modules are worth to buy??
Last edited by reecho on Mon, 25 May 2015, 08:32, edited 1 time in total.
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Last time I spoke to them, it was about $1,600/kWh. That will probably come down though as production ramps up in Central/South America (Mexico?)
Last edited by gmacd33 on Mon, 25 May 2015, 08:58, edited 1 time in total.
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"It's just for mucking around. No continuous loads initially. More of a backup for telly etc when power goes out"
I guess my point was that the Price difference between the 48v - 4000w load - 3000w mppt model that has useful specs to run a compleat home offgrid. Compared to the 24v - 2400w - 600w mppt model that's only good for as you say mucking aroud, camping, emergency use. Is only a few hundred dollars. $869 vs $1349.
If you enjoy it you might wish you spent that little bit more and got the larger one in the first place. As you can stil muck about with the larger unit and use it's full capacity if you get serious later.
Kurt
I guess my point was that the Price difference between the 48v - 4000w load - 3000w mppt model that has useful specs to run a compleat home offgrid. Compared to the 24v - 2400w - 600w mppt model that's only good for as you say mucking aroud, camping, emergency use. Is only a few hundred dollars. $869 vs $1349.
If you enjoy it you might wish you spent that little bit more and got the larger one in the first place. As you can stil muck about with the larger unit and use it's full capacity if you get serious later.
Kurt
Last edited by offgridQLD on Mon, 25 May 2015, 09:29, edited 1 time in total.
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Kurt is that the pricing for local Giant Power branded or grey import MPP solar units?
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That's the local Giant Power.
Grey import is less but not that much less by the time you pay for shipping and upgrade the two noisy fans they come with. You might only save 10-15%.There is some value in local backup to particularly if you have to pay to ship it back to Twain for any issues.
Kurt
Grey import is less but not that much less by the time you pay for shipping and upgrade the two noisy fans they come with. You might only save 10-15%.There is some value in local backup to particularly if you have to pay to ship it back to Twain for any issues.
Kurt
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but the sec you open it up and stuff with the internals the warranty is out the window anyway so it depends on what your going to do with it in the long run
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Hey does anyone know or have experience with the SolaX inverters and battery systems?
http://www.solarchoice.net.au/blog/wp-c ... alogue.pdf
http://www.solarchoice.net.au/blog/wp-c ... alogue.pdf
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Today I took some measurements with the PIP4048 running a resistive load. I wanted some idea of the efficiency of the inverter at the kind of loads it might see running a homes base loads. I picked a Heater on low for the test at 550W (just happens to be around 0.3C load for my small test battery bank so I am running a capacity test on that to)
Running the heater I measured the following
PIP4048 was showing 551W output and battery voltage of 52.4V
My MM was showing 52.5v (I used this measurement for battery voltage)
Amps from the battery showed 12.4A
Meter on the heater plug showed 557w (I took 550w as number for calculations)
12.4A x 52.5v = 651w and we are making 550w from that So about 15% loss doing so. 85% inverter efficiency. This is a reasonably realistic night time base load for a home with the tv and a few things on.
I will do the same test tomorrow at 2000w.
Kurt
Running the heater I measured the following
PIP4048 was showing 551W output and battery voltage of 52.4V
My MM was showing 52.5v (I used this measurement for battery voltage)
Amps from the battery showed 12.4A
Meter on the heater plug showed 557w (I took 550w as number for calculations)
12.4A x 52.5v = 651w and we are making 550w from that So about 15% loss doing so. 85% inverter efficiency. This is a reasonably realistic night time base load for a home with the tv and a few things on.
I will do the same test tomorrow at 2000w.
Kurt
Last edited by offgridQLD on Mon, 15 Jun 2015, 17:40, edited 1 time in total.
PIP-4048MS inverter
Thanks for sharing. AFAIK the 4048 has a flat fee of roughly 50W. All inverters have their sweet spot though, it'd be interesting to see it over a range of loads.
Is the heater you used resistive only (does it have a fan motor?) I'd be interested to see the VA as well.
Is the heater you used resistive only (does it have a fan motor?) I'd be interested to see the VA as well.
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Good test Kurt. Can you tell us what the range of possible efficiencies are, given the possible errors in all 3 readings, as stated by each instrument's manufacturer. Clamp meters for DC current have so much offset, drift and nonlinearity they are lucky to be within +-0.5 A. And many plug-in power meters have pretty low accuracy too.
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"Good test Kurt. Can you tell us what the range of possible efficiencies are, given the possible errors in all 3 readings, as stated by each instrument's manufacturer. Clamp meters for DC current have so much offset, drift and nonlinearity they are lucky to be within +-0.5 A. And many plug-in power meters have pretty low accuracy too."
The clamp meter I used. Extech MA435T has a accuracy of ±(2.5% + 5d) So could have been as low as 12.04 Amps or as high as 12.76 Amps so as high as 669W or as low as 632w. (I will get a hard wired shunt on it next time) so a range of 87% to 82% inverter efficiency.
I was using it in it's 40A range and I zero it befor taking a measurement and took the measurement several times in a row giving me the same the reading 12.40A reading each time. PIP4048 was showing 12A
The MM was checked against my HP bench meter over the weekend and agreed with it to one decimal place so I think I can trust the 52.5V and my Exetech camp meter has a voltage setting and that showed the same 52.5V
The meter on the heaters plug has agreed with my readings Using more accurate shunt based meters that accurately measure current and voltage at my offgrid house. I would trust it to be within a few watts at 550w.I guess I should prove this rather than just take my word for it. I guess the fact the PIP4048 showed the same within (6w)was somewhat convincing.
Kurt
The clamp meter I used. Extech MA435T has a accuracy of ±(2.5% + 5d) So could have been as low as 12.04 Amps or as high as 12.76 Amps so as high as 669W or as low as 632w. (I will get a hard wired shunt on it next time) so a range of 87% to 82% inverter efficiency.
I was using it in it's 40A range and I zero it befor taking a measurement and took the measurement several times in a row giving me the same the reading 12.40A reading each time. PIP4048 was showing 12A
The MM was checked against my HP bench meter over the weekend and agreed with it to one decimal place so I think I can trust the 52.5V and my Exetech camp meter has a voltage setting and that showed the same 52.5V
The meter on the heaters plug has agreed with my readings Using more accurate shunt based meters that accurately measure current and voltage at my offgrid house. I would trust it to be within a few watts at 550w.I guess I should prove this rather than just take my word for it. I guess the fact the PIP4048 showed the same within (6w)was somewhat convincing.
Kurt
Last edited by offgridQLD on Mon, 15 Jun 2015, 17:44, edited 1 time in total.
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So if the power meter was +-1% accurate, the efficiency could be anywhere from 80% to 90%.
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true if it is +/- 1%. I'm open to conducting more accurate tests if anyone is interested. I have the shunt and meter for the main DC feed from the battery if we can sort out the AC output - load side. I don't think the DC voltage is a real issue.
Kurt
Kurt
Last edited by offgridQLD on Mon, 15 Jun 2015, 18:11, edited 1 time in total.