getting copper parts plated in solder

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antiscab
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Real Name: Matthew Lacey
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getting copper parts plated in solder

Post by antiscab » Sat, 29 Jun 2013, 12:53

Hi Guys,

I'm about to be getting some copper parts plated in solder (Tinned in other words)

It's only really a flat fee to get a very large quantity tinned at the same time.

The place is a radiator place in Kelmscott

If you have some stuff you would like to get tinned at the same time (doesn't have to be copper) let me know in the next week or so, and we can do it at the same time.

Costs $150 for each session with the plating tank

When I can find the contact details of the place again, I'll post it up.

for a bit of background on my project:

I'm making copper interconnects for groups of 8 parallel blocks of 10Ah headway cells.

I bought a sheet of copper and had it water cut at Jet Cut in canning vale

Matt
Matt
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jonescg
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getting copper parts plated in solder

Post by jonescg » Sat, 29 Jun 2013, 18:06

Haha, you too eh?

I have about 29 water-jet cut bus links which could be tinned, and lots of bus links for my bike project. I was wondering if I should get them tinned or just leave them, but since they will be clamping down aluminium tabs I should probably do what I can to make them as corrosion resistant as possible.

I'll send you an email with my project needs.
AEVA National Secretary, WA branch vice-chair

antiscab
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getting copper parts plated in solder

Post by antiscab » Sat, 29 Jun 2013, 18:55

might be worth seeing if you can get the aluminum tabs tinned as well
Matt
2011 Blade Electron mk6
2007 vectrix - 145'000km
1998 Prius - needs batt
1999 Prius - needs batt

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jonescg
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getting copper parts plated in solder

Post by jonescg » Sat, 29 Jun 2013, 18:58

They (both the copper and ally tabs) are already nickel plated, so they might be fine. Email sent.
AEVA National Secretary, WA branch vice-chair

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4Springs
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getting copper parts plated in solder

Post by 4Springs » Sun, 30 Jun 2013, 00:20

So what's the go with tinning?
I had heard that naked copper was the best because it is much more conductive than solder. But then if it is going to corrode, a coating of less conductive solder might be better.
I have some naked copper connectors and have been checking them every month for corrosion. They are kept warm and dry, and I haven't seen any green spots yet. Mind you I haven't disconnected any to see on the actual conductive surface.
As suggested above, I suppose it also depends on what metal your copper is connecting to?

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jonescg
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getting copper parts plated in solder

Post by jonescg » Sun, 30 Jun 2013, 02:01

It does reduce the conductivity of the mating surface a little, yes, but I suspect corrosion would reduce it considerably more. Lots of silly things have been done to terminate pouch cells with aluminium tabs. Some even claimed they could solder them! Until the solder peeled off. Some think that by maximising the surface area you get more conductive joints. But the current still must flow through a 0.2 mm thick tab, and at hundreds of amps, it gets hot. The ability for this heat to go somewhere other than the cell itself is the key. Lots of contact is going to aid this, but a 2 mm thick lump of copper is also pretty good at soaking heat. Try tinning bus links with an 80 W iron - takes a while!

In the end, I think it comes down to mating surface area and the ability for the connection to soak up heat, with the former affecting the latter.
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Richo
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getting copper parts plated in solder

Post by Richo » Mon, 01 Jul 2013, 21:01

Are these individually hung or put through the tumbler?
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