i-MiEV Range *no discussion*

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reecho
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i-MiEV Range *no discussion*

Post by reecho » Tue, 01 Jul 2014, 06:11

here is what i get.....

Image

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Post by Conklinc » Sat, 12 Jul 2014, 19:59

A couple weeks ago I drove from Langwarrin to Ringwood (Costco) and return, 93 kms. It was a no-wind warm (17-18 degrees) Melbourne day. The trip was virtually all freeway, between 80 and 100 kms. When I got home I was on 2 bars and blinking. Two passengers.

I'm overdue for my 1500 km complimentary check. She goes in on Mundy, so I hope. My radio is on the blink. The screen blinks and at least once during every song it goes off, with the screen reading "code" when I push the CD button the music continues on as if nothing had happened. Anyone experience this?
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Post by offgridQLD » Tue, 15 Jul 2014, 01:46

The might just give you a new one unless its a loose plug at the back. The plastic cover shroud over the stereo just pops of with your hand , just pull it back towards you.

This exposes the stereo and you will see the plugs as the rear- make sure they are in tight. Though it sounds like it could be something funky going on inside the unit.

Your range experience sounds very reasonable for the conditions and time of year.

Kurt
Last edited by offgridQLD on Mon, 14 Jul 2014, 15:48, edited 1 time in total.

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Post by Conklinc » Tue, 29 Jul 2014, 15:33

Colleagues,

From U.S. based greencarreports.com article on a second charge cord (note this stuff is U.S. sourced, so will have U.S. styled male plugs. Anyway, from greencarreports:

"A couple of people suggested the JuiceBox open-source 15-kilowatt charging station, as described here. Do-It-Yourself kits start at $149, and a fully assembled station starts at $399."

Details from another site:

http://www.plugincars.com/inexpensive-c ... 27891.html

Has anyone gone the DIY route? Cheapest second cord I've seen so far is A$500. Too expensive for my blood. But if I could come back with one of these and just put an Aussie male plug on the end of it, would it do the trick?

Curt
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Post by offgridQLD » Tue, 29 Jul 2014, 16:35

Two things I see is . One you would need the 240v version. The 2nd is given that its a DIY product (or even if you get them to built you one) if it isn't approved for use in AU and you did have a issue and your house burnt down (however small that risk is) It would be a avenue for your insurance company to get out of paying.

My advice is just give it some time....remember when HDMI first came out on electronic goods. $100 was common for a 5m cable now they are $5.

I'm sure as a few more are approved the price will drop a little. I'm just holding off for now unless mine breaks or I loose it.

Kurt


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Post by g4qber » Fri, 29 Aug 2014, 14:41

are there any 2010 imiev owners. Please post your range results.
is 100km on RR a norm for the 2010 imievs?

Ant seems to be getting 80km estimated

but the odd thing is that on full charge canion read 107% charge.
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Post by reecho » Sat, 30 Aug 2014, 02:50

I'm seeing between 85-104kms on the guess-o-meter...

Only done 86kms in one go....with 2 bars left...

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Post by g4qber » Sun, 28 Sep 2014, 14:42

2011 i-MiEV - 129 kms Jan 2018

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Post by antday » Fri, 03 Oct 2014, 22:15

Further to this discussion - based on my dissapointing range ( 83km on the very best scenario drive I have done, 51km on the worst ) I bought a kWh meter for the switchboard and the capacity measurements have an average of 13.25 kWh from flat ( no blips left.. just) I once took the car to turtle mode and put in 13.8 kWh

Assuming 16.5kWh at new, this is a deterioration of around 20% on the battery - so off I went to Paceway Mitsubishi, who first wanted to charge me for doing a battery check then relented and are now assisting with submitting a report ( which measured a the capacity at 37Ah @ 356V = a capacity of 79%

I had heard and seen reports that the warranty for the iMiEV would have a threshold of 80% after 5 years - I have a 2010 model and it is now 4 years old ( obviously ) and I think ( as do many others ) that this is unacceptable. Let's just hope that Mitsubishi Australia is going to assist - I am a potential PHEV buyer and we should be able to expect a reasonable amount of deterioration in battery but not nearly as bad as this!!
Last edited by antday on Fri, 03 Oct 2014, 12:16, edited 1 time in total.

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Post by offgridQLD » Fri, 03 Oct 2014, 22:36

Would be nice if you could run canion OBD port scanner and see what the pack health looks like . Ballance and cell voltage at 100% and at low SOC. How many km on the car?

Keep us posted.
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Post by acmotor » Fri, 03 Oct 2014, 23:49

I think that has been done. Thanks g4qber ?
Canion tells you no more than the dealer's test. That is cells are equal and healthy.... Just low on capacity.

It is the recharge kWh that tells you the true state of the battery capacity, though the BMU knows the number too.

Perhaps canion can extract the kWh capacity estimate that the vehicle's own BMU is establishing ?

That 80% at 5 years warranty figue...... Still trying to find it in writing.
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Post by antday » Sat, 04 Oct 2014, 00:19

Correct has been done - g4qber has the captures but as acmotor says not much different to the dealer test - which showed no dead or damaged cells.
I will attach a scan of the battery test asap.
2010 iMiEV - has done 18800 ks - 10k of that are mine , 8k done while AGL leased car - I suspect they left it for extended periods without charging which may or may not have brought this situation about.
Have not heard back from Mitsu Australia yet.

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Post by antday » Sat, 04 Oct 2014, 00:50

Here is the battery test from Paceway Mitsubishi apologies for quality Image

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Post by offgridQLD » Sat, 04 Oct 2014, 01:04

Sorry double post
Last edited by offgridQLD on Fri, 03 Oct 2014, 17:25, edited 1 time in total.

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Post by offgridQLD » Sat, 04 Oct 2014, 01:05

Yes I know canion dosn't tell you lost capacity but it would tell you if a roge cell that was very out of Ballance was cutting the useful capacity down on the pack.

18,000km and 20% down that is a problem!

Kurt

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Post by antday » Sat, 04 Oct 2014, 01:09

Agreed, I'd be more than happy to get just 100km range - have never achieved that :(
Check out the report I attached, clearly no rogue cells, wish there were, then battery would have been replaced without question - as you can see they have marked it ok because no rogue cells... even though capacity is terrible

Joseph ( g4qber ) has previously done quite a few tests via canion - no balance probs or bad cells

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Post by g4qber » Sat, 04 Oct 2014, 01:45

the weird thing is that on full charge Canion was reading 107%.

Did you mention to Paceway the missing clip that holds the bonnet in place? and the wires that seemed to be in a mess?

I just posted on myimiev forums if this OBD2 dongle is compatible with Canion.
http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=PP2145

Can't wait to get my hands on one.

possibly end of Oct even though it is showing up on the Jaycar website.
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Post by antday » Sat, 04 Oct 2014, 01:49

Nope, wasn't bothered with small things - the battery is the most important thing SOC at 107% via canion is odd but I think the most important number is the capacity which we measure through discharge then charging it.
I hope Mitsubishi Aus feel the same - there is a lot riding on this , my car is probably one of the first encountering this issue but its certainly not the last they will see.

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Post by offgridQLD » Sat, 04 Oct 2014, 02:41

It's not a high mileage issue and considering there are other 2010's getting around with ok range takes age out of the picture. (Yes it could have had a hard life befor you got it but unless they baked it in the sun at 100% SOC for a long long time there isn't much you can do to hurt it)

That 107%. SOC on canion has me thinking.
I think a lot could be read from your cell voltage when you hit turtle.
As the bms is the master of how much usable capacity you have and it recalabrates . If it's the bms getting the cells true capacity wrong then it will show up at turtle (as in reach turtle but your cell voltage is still reasonably high it more like it should be at say 15-20% SOC. Another member had the same over 100% SOC issue and was shure he had lost 20%soc and then it recalabrates and started showing 100% at the end of charge and kWh from the wall went up to.

Kurt
Last edited by offgridQLD on Fri, 03 Oct 2014, 16:47, edited 1 time in total.

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Post by antday » Sat, 04 Oct 2014, 03:06

This other member - could you put me in touch with him? How did he "recalibrate" exactly? Did he upgrade his firmware?
Bear in mind I have had this issue for a year since I have had it so it's certainly not going to fix itself :)
I have also had a thought that it could be ( could ..) firmware on the car but I believe this is also horrendously expensive to upgrade

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Post by offgridQLD » Sat, 04 Oct 2014, 03:22

His was doing the 107% soc thing then all of a sudden it didn't and just started charging to 100%. so it recalabrates by its self .

Though if you car has been down on capacity from when you got it (with just 8000 km on the clock) then I think somthing is wrong with that battery or the bms.

Kurt
Last edited by offgridQLD on Fri, 03 Oct 2014, 17:23, edited 1 time in total.

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Post by offgridQLD » Sat, 04 Oct 2014, 03:42

Looking at the scan of that battery test. Wasn't the SOC at 78%. The are you sure it isn't just saying you have 37AH from 78% down . (though I do see it has a remaining % value.

Shouldn't it charge to 4.1v each cell. at 100%

AH is a really bad value to be using for any kind of accuracy.

kurt


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Post by antday » Sat, 04 Oct 2014, 03:47

it was 78% SOC when they tested it ( I had driven it into the dealership)
They did not charge it from what I can determine
This is a standard Mitsubishi test

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Post by offgridQLD » Sat, 04 Oct 2014, 03:57

Then how do they know the capacity of the battery without a full charge and then a complete discharge.

All that is telling us perhaps is that the BMS thinks the capacity is around 37Ah. how it calculates this 37ah and if its actually in sink with the true capacity of the cells is another thing. I'm not saying the BMS isn't well sorted on the Imiev (i think they did a good job) but battery SOC meters particularly one that has to deal with a battery over its life (a long period and many varied cycles and conditions in a car ) perhaps it getting it wrong wouldn't be out of the question. If it has calculated the capacity wrong then perhaps its actualy only letting you use 37ah but the true capacity on the bench might be for example 40-45Ah

I said this before if the BMS has full control of the car and if it's telling the car the cells are 10AH then that's how they will be treated regardless of there true capacity on the bench.

How the capacity- AH (heath) of the pack is calculated dynamically over the life of the car is anyone's guess. I would love to know.

Kurt
Last edited by offgridQLD on Fri, 03 Oct 2014, 18:00, edited 1 time in total.

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Post by antday » Sat, 04 Oct 2014, 04:09

That is precisely why I refused to pay the $300 charge for the battery test - because they clearly had not done a full discharge/charge and measured the charge kWh.
As you correctly point out this is only an estimate from the BMS.
They accepted ( eventually ) that I would not pay the $300 ( if a cell had failed they would not have initially charged me ) and once I got to speak to the service manager , he started to assist with my warranty claim with Mitsu Aus. I just hope Mitsu prove to be helpful and replace the battery. Otherwise in a couple of years, I'm going to have to be buying a new battery - and it certainly would not be from Mitsubishi. It would be good to compare notes and see which manufacturers are better at this - this will be crucial to new buyers of EVs , and the manufacturers should realise that building confidence in their batteries is paramount.


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