E-Lation, Elation - Latest news/repair options

From go-karts and bicycles to electric eskies and kids scooters.
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amkrasnoff
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E-Lation, Elation - Latest news/repair options

Post by amkrasnoff » Sat, 29 Oct 2011, 22:05

Probably like many people I have been caught out by the sudden closure of the E-Lation business. I have had a number of problems with the battery however the motor itself has worked perfectly.

As for customer service, my mother always taught me "if you don't have anything nice to say then don't say anything at all" - enough said.

I am dissapointed with the lack of any correspondence to customers who have paid well over $1200 for the kit. Anyway time to move on.

If you need any repairs done - I can't speak highly enough of Barry at Lancaster Bikes (http://www.electrobikes.com.au)

I got in touch with him today and he promply fixed the connections within the battery. Apparently, due to poor quality soldering one of the wires had come loose and that it why the battery had 'died'.   He also only charged me $40 for the repair! Wow - when I sent it to Allan to fix he charged me $150.


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(*steve*)
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E-Lation, Elation - Latest news/repair options

Post by (*steve*) » Tue, 07 Feb 2012, 02:56

I think I have that problem.

Some months ago the bar-graph thing stopped working which wasn't a big deal.

Late last week the motor cut out for no reason but was then OK

Today, after going over a small bump, the motor cut out and it keeps turning off after I go over the slightest bump.

To turn it back on I have to turn off at both the throttle and the battery then turn back on again.

I have partially disassembled the battery and I find that 2 wires have fractured. The solder joint didn't fail, the wires snapped off it.

I suspect the cause is (at least partially) the screws holding the plastic end caps on.

As I took them out, I found that some were very short, and they had either stripped their thread, or were too small. Some only had about 3mm of overlap with the aluminium channel -- far too small.

The problem I have now us that I can't get the charger mechanism out from the end of the plastic cap. I obviously don't want to cause any more damage.

Any ideas?

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coulomb
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E-Lation, Elation - Latest news/repair options

Post by coulomb » Tue, 07 Feb 2012, 03:53

(*steve*) wrote: I have partially disassembled the battery and I find that 2 wires have fractured. The solder joint didn't fail, the wires snapped off it.

Any ideas?
Depending on how it's done, soldered wires on batteries in vehicles can be a bad thing. Solder wicks into the wire, and there is a sharp transition of inflexible solder and flexible wire, and a fracture is inevitable with vibration.

If there is strain relief (e.g. heatshrink tubing over the wire near the soldered part), it can help greatly.

The problems with the screws are obviously separate to this.
Learning how to patch and repair PIP-4048 inverter-chargers and Elcon chargers.

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(*steve*)
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E-Lation, Elation - Latest news/repair options

Post by (*steve*) » Wed, 22 Feb 2012, 22:10

I've fixed my battery.

No big deal.

I called a company mentioned here (I think) that are on the opposite side of Australia to me with a problem (the charger board won't come out) and they suggested an answer (pull!).

the fix should place less stress on the wire and allow it to be disconnected in the future if I need to work on the battery.

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