jonescg's eCRX build thread
- jonescg
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OK so just double checking, I have drawn the schematic above correctly? Switching between high power and low power is possible with the correct relays on the 12 V - Gnd as per the TC manual?
I'm looking at doing a similar thing for my 2 x 2 kW chargers for the race bike. Since most racetracks have terrible power facilities, I will try not to exceed 15 A at 240 V. Since it will be a race bike I should be able to dial it back with a couple of three position toggles rather than relays.
I'm looking at doing a similar thing for my 2 x 2 kW chargers for the race bike. Since most racetracks have terrible power facilities, I will try not to exceed 15 A at 240 V. Since it will be a race bike I should be able to dial it back with a couple of three position toggles rather than relays.
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jonescg wrote: OK so just double checking, I have drawn the schematic above correctly?
It looks OK, but note that the "12 V" output from the charger is unregulated, and is more like 11 V in practice, at least with the sample of one that I've tried. So either adjust your resistors accordingly, or better yet use a 5.1 V zener diode as a crude regulator and the source of "full on" voltage, and derive the other two voltages from that.
Your two volts or less case may as well be 0.0 V, saving a resistor. So then you only need 3.0 V from 5.1 V.
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Thanks mate! Makes it easier.
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OK, I have re-drawn it to incorporate a Zener diode (regulating the 5.1 V supply) and made the circuit applicable for running three chargers.
I also realise that I would need some fancy triple pole triple throw relays rated for 32 A which could switch the charger AC inputs from 3 x (phase to neutral) to (3 phases common) to neutral. That can come later...
Make sense? Does it look like all three chargers may be toggled between off, low and high power? I have also included a master relay to turn all three chargers off should the BMS spot an overvolted cell. Not sure how it will work, but that can be sussed in good time.
I also realise that I would need some fancy triple pole triple throw relays rated for 32 A which could switch the charger AC inputs from 3 x (phase to neutral) to (3 phases common) to neutral. That can come later...
Make sense? Does it look like all three chargers may be toggled between off, low and high power? I have also included a master relay to turn all three chargers off should the BMS spot an overvolted cell. Not sure how it will work, but that can be sussed in good time.
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I have been putting some thought into the charging options for the CRX when it happens. I *might* be able to access a large order of EIG cells, so I have been getting a board to terminate them made up in anticipation!
Now, since I have to split the battery up into low voltage units anyway, and I need to charge these isolated blocks with three 233 V chargers, I figured I could probably make use of the Mennekes plug. The idea is that the normal charge setting would be ~3 kW while full power would be 12 kW. Any larger and the chargers will occupy too much room. So I have tried to take advantage of the enable features on the TC chargers.
Let's ignore the BMS interaction with the charge system for now. Essentially the J1772 plug will allow for lower power charging 99% of the time, while on the opposite side of the car there will be a Mennekes socket which can be used for 12 kW charging from any >20 A, 5 pin three phase supply.
Microswitches inside the sockets will enable charging, and the manual power selector will determine what power level to charge at. Obviously leaving it on HI while using the J1772 will cause a breaker to trip.
In addition to controlling the high power output from the charger, it also allows the AC supply to the chargers to be switched between common phase to neutral (low power, single phase) to separate phases to neutral (high power, three phase). Seems plausible?
Now, since I have to split the battery up into low voltage units anyway, and I need to charge these isolated blocks with three 233 V chargers, I figured I could probably make use of the Mennekes plug. The idea is that the normal charge setting would be ~3 kW while full power would be 12 kW. Any larger and the chargers will occupy too much room. So I have tried to take advantage of the enable features on the TC chargers.
Let's ignore the BMS interaction with the charge system for now. Essentially the J1772 plug will allow for lower power charging 99% of the time, while on the opposite side of the car there will be a Mennekes socket which can be used for 12 kW charging from any >20 A, 5 pin three phase supply.
Microswitches inside the sockets will enable charging, and the manual power selector will determine what power level to charge at. Obviously leaving it on HI while using the J1772 will cause a breaker to trip.
In addition to controlling the high power output from the charger, it also allows the AC supply to the chargers to be switched between common phase to neutral (low power, single phase) to separate phases to neutral (high power, three phase). Seems plausible?
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Woah, long time since I posted in this thread. I'm spending too much money and time on the race bike instead.
I have since decided to get a single big charger rated to 700 V DC from Currentways. The high voltage charger is currently still in development, which suits my budget just fine . It's going to be much, much easier than trying to split the pack up during charge.
I was thinking about the heat generated by chargers, and how I might be able to take advantage of this for pre-heating the car in winter. Now, granted it's all a bit far-fetched, but it got me thinking about the heating and cooling loops in an EV. Does it not seem reasonable that I could use the cooling loop from the charger to feed into the car's heater/blower unit? I guess it would need airflow to be of any use. It's not going to be a very powerful heater, as the charger is only de-rated when it's air-cooled. So I would also need a kettle in line too for when I need to demist the window.
The heater would need to be powered from the traction pack. Hmmm, using a contactor to switch a couple of amps at high voltage means welded contacts galore. Any ideas?
Oh, another step closer to sorting out the battery for my car!
Rod Dilkes and I are going to start bringing EIG cells into Australia. We got some in for a couple of e-bike projects in Canberra and were able to take a few measurements and confirm my termination system works like a charm. So if you have an EV project coming up and you need a large battery, give us a hoy. These cells are 2.5 times more expensive per kWh than LiFePO4, but occupies half the volume for only 60% of the weight.
I have since decided to get a single big charger rated to 700 V DC from Currentways. The high voltage charger is currently still in development, which suits my budget just fine . It's going to be much, much easier than trying to split the pack up during charge.
I was thinking about the heat generated by chargers, and how I might be able to take advantage of this for pre-heating the car in winter. Now, granted it's all a bit far-fetched, but it got me thinking about the heating and cooling loops in an EV. Does it not seem reasonable that I could use the cooling loop from the charger to feed into the car's heater/blower unit? I guess it would need airflow to be of any use. It's not going to be a very powerful heater, as the charger is only de-rated when it's air-cooled. So I would also need a kettle in line too for when I need to demist the window.
The heater would need to be powered from the traction pack. Hmmm, using a contactor to switch a couple of amps at high voltage means welded contacts galore. Any ideas?
Oh, another step closer to sorting out the battery for my car!
Rod Dilkes and I are going to start bringing EIG cells into Australia. We got some in for a couple of e-bike projects in Canberra and were able to take a few measurements and confirm my termination system works like a charm. So if you have an EV project coming up and you need a large battery, give us a hoy. These cells are 2.5 times more expensive per kWh than LiFePO4, but occupies half the volume for only 60% of the weight.
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gb9E222QsM0
tzero inventor converted a CRX in 1991
tzero has similar idea to Tesla Roadster, 18650 cells
looks like dumb & dumber vehicle though.
http://www.acpropulsion.com/products-tzero.html
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/AC_Propulsion_tzero
tzero inventor converted a CRX in 1991
tzero has similar idea to Tesla Roadster, 18650 cells
looks like dumb & dumber vehicle though.
http://www.acpropulsion.com/products-tzero.html
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/AC_Propulsion_tzero
Last edited by g4qber on Sun, 10 Nov 2013, 04:10, edited 1 time in total.
- jonescg
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I've seen a few good CRX conversions on the web now - I only discovered this one recently: http://www.diyelectriccar.com/garage/cars/333
I am particularly interested in his chassis surgery behind the seats.
Anyway, the CRX is next in line after Voltron Evo, but it will happen
I am particularly interested in his chassis surgery behind the seats.
Anyway, the CRX is next in line after Voltron Evo, but it will happen
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Re: jonescg's eCRX build thread
Wow - four and a half years since I last posted here... Well to be fair I did build a race bike and that took all my money.
But I can also see how little I knew at the start of this thread, and how far I've come. And the fact that I'm still posting questions shows how far to go
I have since moved away from the large format cells and found good numbers in 5-7 Ah cells. I'm picking up 29 kWh worth of 7 Ah pouch cells tomorrow for the Prelude conversion (25 kWh + a spare module) and these cells are even more compact than the EIG cells from yesteryear. Somewhat cheaper too.
I found these posts above with details on adjusting the charging power of the TC units. Interesting because there may be an analog way of making the J1772 protocol work - the right signal pulls a relay which puts a resistor in place and limits the charge current, sort of thing. I only raise the option because I'm pretty dumb with all things CAN
I believe the conversion project will be able to start in earnest late this year
But I can also see how little I knew at the start of this thread, and how far I've come. And the fact that I'm still posting questions shows how far to go
I have since moved away from the large format cells and found good numbers in 5-7 Ah cells. I'm picking up 29 kWh worth of 7 Ah pouch cells tomorrow for the Prelude conversion (25 kWh + a spare module) and these cells are even more compact than the EIG cells from yesteryear. Somewhat cheaper too.
I found these posts above with details on adjusting the charging power of the TC units. Interesting because there may be an analog way of making the J1772 protocol work - the right signal pulls a relay which puts a resistor in place and limits the charge current, sort of thing. I only raise the option because I'm pretty dumb with all things CAN
I believe the conversion project will be able to start in earnest late this year
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Re: jonescg's eCRX build thread
I think I'm up to like 5 years.
I have done stuff to the Handi since but not updated the thread.
Poor Handi.
Given how little I have left to do I really need to kick myself in the a$$ for not finishing it already.
Will you strip down your bike to put the parts in the CRX?
I have done stuff to the Handi since but not updated the thread.
Poor Handi.
Given how little I have left to do I really need to kick myself in the a$$ for not finishing it already.
Will you strip down your bike to put the parts in the CRX?
So the short answer is NO but the long answer is YES.
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Re: jonescg's eCRX build thread
Tempting, but it's a fully operational race bike as is, so I'm not likely to raid it for a motor and inverter. But that's more or less the sort of power I want to use in the CRX.
We're looking to buy a house at the moment, so a shed to park a project in and work on for a year is important. It would be great to have a shed to do the Prelude in actually... I have a shed, but it's full of my own crap already.
We're looking to buy a house at the moment, so a shed to park a project in and work on for a year is important. It would be great to have a shed to do the Prelude in actually... I have a shed, but it's full of my own crap already.
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Re: jonescg's eCRX build thread
Ahhh it doesn't matter how big a place you get you'll always find stuff to fill it with
If I cleaned mine out I could fit 6 cars in there.
As it is I doubt I could walk around the Handi without getting stuck - and not just cos I'm fat and old
I think lots of adds on gumnut for a few months might fix most of the problem!
Cheaper than getting another shed.
If I cleaned mine out I could fit 6 cars in there.
As it is I doubt I could walk around the Handi without getting stuck - and not just cos I'm fat and old
I think lots of adds on gumnut for a few months might fix most of the problem!
Cheaper than getting another shed.
So the short answer is NO but the long answer is YES.
Help prevent road rage - get outta my way!
Help prevent road rage - get outta my way!
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Re: jonescg's eCRX build thread
I have decided that a Leaf motor and differential is probably the best option for the CRX. I will have limited funds and resources to build the car of my dreams, so I guess the car of my wallet will have to do.
Thankfully my friend Arlin over in Nanaimo has plenty of experience with Leaf motors and in particular, how to hot-rod them. I won't use the Leaf inverter, instead I'll probably go for a Rinehart inverter as I'm quite familiar with them.
Battery will be very much like the Prelude battery, and probably about as big. Not sure if I should aim for range or power... If I use the high power cells I'll only fit about 18 kWh, but the high energy cells will be closer to 25 kWh. In an aerodynamic beast like the CRX I should probably still get about 180 km on the highway.
Thankfully my friend Arlin over in Nanaimo has plenty of experience with Leaf motors and in particular, how to hot-rod them. I won't use the Leaf inverter, instead I'll probably go for a Rinehart inverter as I'm quite familiar with them.
Battery will be very much like the Prelude battery, and probably about as big. Not sure if I should aim for range or power... If I use the high power cells I'll only fit about 18 kWh, but the high energy cells will be closer to 25 kWh. In an aerodynamic beast like the CRX I should probably still get about 180 km on the highway.
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Re: jonescg's eCRX build thread
Depends on whether you drive like a Grandpa or a boy racer
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Re: jonescg's eCRX build thread
I'd like the option to do both
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Re: jonescg's eCRX build thread
Wow I haven't seen one of these yet to buy.
That's how I ended up with the Hyundai motor.
Any clues how much the leaf motor+transmission costs?
So the short answer is NO but the long answer is YES.
Help prevent road rage - get outta my way!
Help prevent road rage - get outta my way!
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Re: jonescg's eCRX build thread
A wrecker in New Zealand has a complete kit for AU$5500. No idea what shipping and customs would be, but that's for the DC/DC converter, inverter, motor, transaxle diff and half-shafts. I would probably use a non-Nissan inverter and DC/DC for more control over the vehicle, but if they can be made to work out of the box, it would make a very cheap bit of high quality kit.
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Re: jonescg's eCRX build thread
Most appropriate place to put this image I think
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Re: jonescg's eCRX build thread
Following
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Re: jonescg's eCRX build thread
Now that the Prelude is operational I can finally get back to this project. First task is to save some money...
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Re: jonescg's eCRX build thread
Posted on April 1st... Is this a cruel joke?
Looking forward to the updates.
Chris, when is the next branch meet? I missed the previous one due to lockdown and other commitments... Keen to meet
Looking forward to the updates.
Chris, when is the next branch meet? I missed the previous one due to lockdown and other commitments... Keen to meet
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Re: jonescg's eCRX build thread
Okay, no excuses now.
I started this thread TEN YEARS AGO. It's finally time to convert the car. In honour of my 10 year procrastaversary, I'm able to reliably inform the world I have bought @wovenrovings Leaf motor and transaxle. So this is happening for reals!
Following my own advice, I'll start by getting the chassis up to snuff. I'm going to buy new coil-over shocks all round ($2500) and this will hopefully return it to it's original ride height. Then I'll drive it into the panel beater's shop and get them to cut every visible piece of rust out of the car and re-paint. There's a solid $3000 at least...
Then I'll drive it home, park it up, and pull the poor old 1.6 litre oil-burner out for good. Installing the Leaf motor and transaxle will be the biggest challenge for the foreseeable future, but once done I can devise a battery solution.
I started this thread TEN YEARS AGO. It's finally time to convert the car. In honour of my 10 year procrastaversary, I'm able to reliably inform the world I have bought @wovenrovings Leaf motor and transaxle. So this is happening for reals!
Following my own advice, I'll start by getting the chassis up to snuff. I'm going to buy new coil-over shocks all round ($2500) and this will hopefully return it to it's original ride height. Then I'll drive it into the panel beater's shop and get them to cut every visible piece of rust out of the car and re-paint. There's a solid $3000 at least...
Then I'll drive it home, park it up, and pull the poor old 1.6 litre oil-burner out for good. Installing the Leaf motor and transaxle will be the biggest challenge for the foreseeable future, but once done I can devise a battery solution.
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Re: jonescg's eCRX build thread
So it'll be on display for aquakhana with a boat trailer on the back?
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Or dumped in the river...
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Re: jonescg's eCRX build thread
In keeping with my April 1st posts, I might make an announcement on the CRX project:
The car has been taken to the local body shop for some rust removal and re-spray. It's not getting all of the rust removed, just the worst of it, so the stuff under the hatch and bear the strut supports.
In the meantime I've bought a new liquid cooled, CAN-controlled, 6.6 kW charger from Deligreen. So much smaller and lighter than the first 6.6 kW chargers from TC! I started terminating the cables and trying to interpret the pin-outs. With a big of help from Google translate I found that pin 14 is the 12 V ground line. Except, I have no pin 14... I think they have mirrored the pins...
The car has been taken to the local body shop for some rust removal and re-spray. It's not getting all of the rust removed, just the worst of it, so the stuff under the hatch and bear the strut supports.
In the meantime I've bought a new liquid cooled, CAN-controlled, 6.6 kW charger from Deligreen. So much smaller and lighter than the first 6.6 kW chargers from TC! I started terminating the cables and trying to interpret the pin-outs. With a big of help from Google translate I found that pin 14 is the 12 V ground line. Except, I have no pin 14... I think they have mirrored the pins...
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