seligtype3 1969 Volkswagen Type 3

Post up a thread for your EV. Progress pics, description and assorted alliteration
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Johny
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Post by Johny » Wed, 16 Nov 2011, 17:56

seligtype3 wrote:Rolling: 15 months after her demise into the workshop the Type 3 is back on four wheels and officially a rolling chassis again.
Hurray! That's pretty cute they way you can take the outer panels off above the rear wheels and side.

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Post by seligtype3 » Thu, 17 Nov 2011, 03:19

Drawing up the front pack: This parks neatly where the fuel tank was. I've welded a 25x50x1.6 RHS frame into the body that this pack will slide into. Four M8 bolts hold it in place.

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Here's an older pic of the frame just after I welded it in. It stiffened up the front end nicely. This old gal is so flimsy!

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The bunch of cells sitting higher are to clear the steering column while the rest can rest lower getting my mass slightly closer to the road.
Restoring and converting a 1969 VW Type 3 Variant.

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Post by seligtype3 » Thu, 17 Nov 2011, 03:35

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Hoovering out the last of the sand that still lingers from sandblasting parts of the chassis.
Restoring and converting a 1969 VW Type 3 Variant.

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Post by seligtype3 » Fri, 25 Nov 2011, 20:42

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Progress shot as paint goes down and 12V circuits start going in.
Restoring and converting a 1969 VW Type 3 Variant.

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Post by woody » Fri, 25 Nov 2011, 21:50

I can tell just from the artistry in the photos that this build is going to look great :-)
Planned EV: '63 Cortina using AC and LiFePO4 Battery Pack

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Post by seligtype3 » Thu, 17 May 2012, 04:38

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Usual excuses, work, life etc but here's a quick update on the VW. My flywheel arrived back today from getting machined, from >7kg down to ~4.5kg, gear ring taken off, cleaned back to an immaculate machine oil scented object that will never be seen again.

I also recently took delivery of a CEVA adapter plate from Canada. Not cheap but when I added up the hours I would have spent designing one (again, lost the solidworks file) and getting it made, all to have it possibly not work I decided to buy an off the shelf unit. It comes with basic instructions and no guarantee that it would work with a Kostov but I checked the critical dimensions against a Warp 9 drawing and it looked ok. So far so good, just need a gland nut for the flywheel and it can be tested on the transmission for clutch alignment.

Back in the car I've been wiring (a complete rewire is endless it turns out) and starting to run the bones of the high voltage circuit. I've run 32mm rigid conduit through the cabin under the passenger side seat to get from the front battery bay to the charger under the back seat, and then further back again into the rear engine bay.

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I've been putting off making the battery cases for almost a year now, tweaking the design again and again. Amazes me how projects can get drawn out like this. Here's another shot showing some dash progress.

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Big red button is linked with a steel push rod through to under the bonnet to the breaker, little red button is a generic e-stop that kills all 12V circuits in the vehicle and must be closed in order to start the car, starting is still via the ignition key that engages the contractor when turned to the on position.
Restoring and converting a 1969 VW Type 3 Variant.

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Post by seligtype3 » Tue, 03 Jul 2012, 05:50

The '69 VW Type 3 transmission has finally made friends with the Kostov 17R.

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Restoring and converting a 1969 VW Type 3 Variant.

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Post by Johny » Tue, 03 Jul 2012, 15:03

It looks like they get on well. Geez that motor is big.
OK, so how do you get it out of the house? Image

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Post by seligtype3 » Fri, 31 Aug 2012, 01:34

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Some progress on the VW, rather than saving the work up I've been keeping a task at hand everyday in the shop so I can get little bits happening in any downtime. The transmission/motor/controller sub assembly has come together today. The wings (bottom centre) go out to the original engine mounts. It all weighs in at about 115kg, not fun to wrangle and I'll definitely be looking for a second pair of hands getting it into the car for a test fit.

Motor hanger 25x50x1.6mm RHS
Hanger uprights 12x25mm solid
Kostov/Soliton mounts 20x20x1.6mm SHS
Last edited by seligtype3 on Thu, 30 Aug 2012, 15:35, edited 1 time in total.
Restoring and converting a 1969 VW Type 3 Variant.

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Post by seligtype3 » Fri, 31 Aug 2012, 02:05

A recent photo of one of the front battery boxes. Two of these will hold the forward 22 cells. These are profile cut 1mm mild steel, stitch welded and due to be sealed to prevent water ingress. My engineer turned me away from aluminium due to galvanic corrosion in contact with steel parts and long term fatigue. The 1mm steel design comes in at around the same weight as the 3mm aluminium version anyway. It's personally a much more familiar material too which helps.

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Test fitting with the built in conduit mounting points. Left you can see the back of the 'big red button' which has a push rod connection through to the dash.

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Restoring and converting a 1969 VW Type 3 Variant.

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Post by woody » Fri, 31 Aug 2012, 04:31

You have a great eye - the symmetry of the controller mount and the batter box photos are perfect! Looking forward to the finished machine :-)

Galvanic corrosion isn't something I'd considered, I was thinking aluminium for mine after Zeva's and seeing the aluminium drop tanks under Toranas since high school...
Planned EV: '63 Cortina using AC and LiFePO4 Battery Pack

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Post by seligtype3 » Wed, 02 Jan 2013, 18:58

Quick update as the front pack goes together. I've dropped the welded 1mm steel cases in favour of a solution that bolts together. Using the ribs of the cells and clamping them into packs of 11. Each set is compressing about 8mm from the 4xM8 bolts.

Image
Last edited by seligtype3 on Wed, 02 Jan 2013, 08:01, edited 1 time in total.
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Post by woody » Thu, 03 Jan 2013, 21:39

Looks neat!
Planned EV: '63 Cortina using AC and LiFePO4 Battery Pack

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Post by seligtype3 » Tue, 02 Apr 2013, 20:57

Quick question to those who know what they're doing - my Iota DLS-55 HV DC/DC converter has input leads that unplug and are not marked for polarity. Does anyone know if these things are polarity sensitive and if so how would I safely ascertain which way it might be?

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Last edited by seligtype3 on Tue, 02 Apr 2013, 09:58, edited 1 time in total.
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Post by seligtype3 » Tue, 02 Apr 2013, 21:03

Meanwhile a couple of progress pics from the build:

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Slow backseat progress.

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The JNR mounted and wired.

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Big red button and front fuse getting wired.
Restoring and converting a 1969 VW Type 3 Variant.

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Post by woody » Tue, 02 Apr 2013, 22:00

manufacturer webpage says input is AC, so I think it wouldn't matter.

But I'd wait for someone who has one to pipe in :-)

Pics look great!
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Post by zeva » Tue, 02 Apr 2013, 22:07

seligtype3 wrote: Quick question to those who know what they're doing - my Iota DLS-55 HV DC/DC converter has input leads that unplug and are not marked for polarity. Does anyone know if these things are polarity sensitive and if so how would I safely ascertain which way it might be?

Hi Selig, I can confirm that the polarity doesn't matter with the DLS-55. They were originally designed to run off AC power so have a diode bridge on the input. But FWIW, I wired mine up the same as you (black = negative, white = positive).
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Post by seligtype3 » Tue, 02 Apr 2013, 23:16

Thanks Ian, that's the answer I was hoping for. Appreciate it!
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Post by gholm » Thu, 12 Sep 2013, 03:44

Been a while since we've heard any news on this conversion... how's it going? Definitely keep us posted when you can..

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Post by seligtype3 » Tue, 08 Oct 2013, 03:06

Thanks for the note! It's still happening, very slow going between too much work. I'll certainly update as progress occurs. Cheers.
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Post by seligtype3 » Wed, 01 Jan 2014, 23:29

Thankfully summer holidays have rolled around so I've got some time in the shed with the VW.
I've come up against a aux battery drain problem though. I've wired the DC/DC convertor to the small 12V 7amp hour cell, this supply then runs up to the e-stop in the dash and onto the rest of the car via the fuse box etc. When the e-stop is open and everything is turned off the aux battery is draining overnight. The DC/DC being the only possible source I can identify. I could add a little switch inline between the DC/DC and the aux battery but then it's just another thing I have to remember to turn off when shutting down the car. Does anyone more savvy than I have a good simple solution for this?
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Post by EV2Go » Wed, 01 Jan 2014, 23:53

Wired through the ignition key?

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Post by 4Springs » Wed, 01 Jan 2014, 23:56

seligtype3 wrote:I've come up against a aux battery drain problem though. I've wired the DC/DC convertor to the small 12V 7amp hour cell, this supply then runs up to the e-stop in the dash and onto the rest of the car via the fuse box etc. When the e-stop is open and everything is turned off the aux battery is draining overnight. The DC/DC being the only possible source I can identify.
I have one of these IOTA DC/DC converters and I don't have this problem. Are you sure it is the DC/DC? My 7AH aux battery runs flat if I leave it for about 1 week. Can you measure the current drawn with a multimeter, with and without the DC/DC connected?

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Post by seligtype3 » Thu, 02 Jan 2014, 01:09

EV2Go wrote: Wired through the ignition key?


Good idea, although part of my problem is that if that aux battery is in the circuit after the e-stop then the main contractor will stay closed if I punch the e-stop in an emergency situation.
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Post by seligtype3 » Thu, 02 Jan 2014, 01:22

4Springs wrote:
seligtype3 wrote:I've come up against a aux battery drain problem though. I've wired the DC/DC convertor to the small 12V 7amp hour cell, this supply then runs up to the e-stop in the dash and onto the rest of the car via the fuse box etc. When the e-stop is open and everything is turned off the aux battery is draining overnight. The DC/DC being the only possible source I can identify.
I have one of these IOTA DC/DC converters and I don't have this problem. Are you sure it is the DC/DC? My 7AH aux battery runs flat if I leave it for about 1 week. Can you measure the current drawn with a multimeter, with and without the DC/DC connected?


Interesting, I'll check it again. My dinky multimeter doesn't measure amperage so I'll get one that does and check it again. Last time I checked it I removed all other items from the circuit and let the DC/DC drain the battery, or at least that what I concluded was happening. Reading some damning reviews of the IOTA gave me a sense that it might be to blame.
Restoring and converting a 1969 VW Type 3 Variant.

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