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Post up a thread for your EV. Progress pics, description and assorted alliteration
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woody
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Post by woody »

Don't know where this guy is going to fit his batteries:

Image
Planned EV: '63 Cortina using AC and LiFePO4 Battery Pack
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:?:
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:?:
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7circle
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Post by 7circle »

So were will the main springs go?

I'd try and bring it in nice a close to the motor but remember to make sure you can get to at least the brushes easily for maintenance.

This make me wonder if replacing the rubber dial motor front mount with left and right side rubber mounts. These could come back 6 inches.
Can you upload a side view with the wheel removed that block the view.

Also it may be easier to drop the motor out the bottom. It looks like you fit it from the top at the moment.

I'm not sure what the Watts Link does.

If you feel like sharing the skp file or just allowing others to play with it in Sketch up would be ace.

I think you can copy protect the access on sketchup. The 3D Warehouse of Sketchup models have some with access and others with view only.

I want to share some cargo trike CAD models in the same manner.
Like what we talked about on the other thread.

Look'n good.

7C
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:?:
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T1 Terry
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Post by T1 Terry »

The Volvo truck rear diff is located using a ball joint at the top of the diff housing and the arms coming forward like a wish bone shape. This design allows axle housing tilt side to side plus up and down movement but stops diff roll over and sideways shift.
This would make room for coil springs from the lower control arms forward of the diff instead of coil over springs on the shocks, this would allow for a wider selection to find the most suitable. It may add too much weight though due to the added strength of the frame work required in that area.

T1 Terry
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7circle
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Post by 7circle »

Send me a PM message and it'll come to my Email.

Here is a sketch over that is to prompt some the ideas about motor access and rubber mount locations options.
And dropping the motor out the bottom for maintenance.

Image

Got to work on the Red Laser EV now. Oh its a struggle.
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Post by 7circle »

Can you PM your email address I sent you my details but if the email has an error I could just email you directly.

7C
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:?:
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Carv'n Marv'n
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Post by Carv'n Marv'n »

...g'day again..

You have obviously spent a fair bit of moolah on this already, and it would be a shame to see this project fall over because of a mis-direction in the design..
If your planning on making this street legal, you should contact the transport department and get the appropriate documentation filled out - which will then give you approval to construct the vehicle for use on public roads... This will also require you to visit an approved engineer...

...I think at this point it is wise to go and have a chat to a good Engineer or bike builder about what your planning. It won't cost you anything except a bit of time. I'm not an engineer, but it looks like the frame/suspension design is becoming far more complex than need be. Keep it simple would be my philosophy..

I hope you succeed with this - it will be one hell of a powerhouse machine.
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Post by EV2Go »

:?:
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Post by Electrocycle »

couldn't your motor support cradle be the lower trailing arms?
You can have the motor supported on the small shocks attached to the arms.
If the shocks are mounted on a stud like they are in a suspension setup they'll allow for the fwd/back movement as well.

I think you'll definitely need a watts link to keep the axle solidly located.
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Post by EV2Go »

:?:
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7circle
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Post by 7circle »

Are you allowing for access to the motor for Maintenance.

Or Are you happy having to pull the whole suspension system apart to change the Brushes or pull the motor out.

Go through the assembly and un-assembly process your self.

Just to make sure your happy with it.

7C

PS Sent you a PM with 'i' added.
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Post by Electrocycle »

if the shocks are near the front of the motor, and the front of the trailing arms, there will be very little difference in the end result - but much less complexity.
The front of the control arms don't move much relative to the chassis, or diff.
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Post by EV2Go »

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Post by Electrocycle »

you could also make the lower control arms into a wishbone with a single pivot at the front - and motor supports.

If you have a watts link at the back you don't need two mounts at the front - and if the lower arms are triangulated it will stop the axle being turning left or right (ie one wheel being pushed back by a bump)
At the moment there's not much stopping that.
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Carv'n Marv'n
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Post by Carv'n Marv'n »

...there is an enormous amount of unsprung weight - motor/diff/wheels etc... Would the shock absorbers really be that effective??

what about simplifying.... a simple hardtail frame, with good seat suspension??.... and move half of the battery pack forward if possible.
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Post by Electrocycle »

ok that's getting to be pretty much what I was talking about, but the engine mount at the front won't be as good as a rose joint I think (from the point of view of keeping the axle pointed straight ahead).

I would try to make the top arms pivot at the same point as the lower ones, and they may even need to be straighter so it's not trying to push the motor up and down on the end of the diff when you hit a bump on one side.


There is a lot of unsprung weight, but there will be lots of sprung weight too!
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Post by GRMarks »

EV2Go wrote:Image


Is the motor solid mounted to the diff or via a flexable coupling ?
Also is it going to still be a tilting trike ? If so I see some problems with the top linkage length and positioning. Every time you go over a bump the front of the diff will want to point downwards. Also it will tend to pivot from above the diff.

Can you move the motor further forwards (away from the diff.) and up close to the front wheel and solid mount (like a tractor engine/gearbox/diff.) and a pivot on the front of the motor. This would reduce unsprung weight and shock, from bumps, on the motor. This solid mount would take the forwards thrust from the diff. them mount a pivit in the center of the back of the diff with a panier rod (or similar) to locate it sideways. This would allow it to pivot and move up and down. You could put a single spring on the diff rear pivot but still have one shock (no spring) on each side near the wheel.   
The pivot line would then be through the center of the diff (not above it). The current arangement would give far more sideways movement when only one wheel goes up (like on a bump) than a panier rod (which you don't like).     
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