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EV2Go
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Post by T1 Terry »

That would give you room to drive through CV joints, the kombi floating rear drive axle shortened comes to mind, but the drive shaft would be very short.
The ball mounted on an "L" shape bracket to a hydrostatic mount would take care of shock transfer but you would also need a Watts link to keep the diff in line. Here's a 9" kit to give you a few ideas.
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Post by T1 Terry »

Had me there for a minute, then I realised it was me who didn't explain myself, sorry about that. I was refering to using the kombi CV joints and drive shaft are a tail shaft from motor to diff yoke. you could even use Porsche units, they have a beeter power rating and better angles I think. They often talk about fitting the Porche units on the Kombi Club forum.

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Post by T1 Terry »

Is the diff housing upside down in the photo with the plug removed? Otherwise the oil level would be way too high causing seal failure.
If you were to go swinging axles you'd be better off using a Jaguar diff assemble complete with the inboard discs and callipers, keeps the unsprung weight down.

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Post by T1 Terry »

The VW/Porche gearbox/diff is fixed to the chassis, the drive axles float via the CV joints and this allows enough variation in length for full suspension travel. The CV joints are internally splined to fit floating axle with circlips to retain it, the out drive/driven member is mounted with 6 x 6mm ubrako bolts. They can be found at a VW wreckers for around $50 complete or brand new complete from JustKampers or Bus Stop in Brisbane, Mick's Motors and places like that.

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Post by 7circle »

If you have any doubts on gear ratio you could flip the motor 180 and have the motor over the tail shaft. Then run a belt drive or gear box.

Sorry for the tangent. Makes me think of dual KostovHV11's on either side to keep the weight down and double the power.. ..   Image
You could then run the tail shaft down the middle.
Play with series/parallel dual motor connections. You might end up with 12 contactors with double dual field switching.

Also wondering if your tempted to have a high riding pillion passenger seat.

The Soliton is water cooled so it could go at the rear with a view of the controller from behind.

Where will you put the radiator and how big will it be and the pump.
I have been wondering about water jackets for these motors as another project I'm helping with has the WarpHV11.

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Post by 7circle »

I'm worried now that the motor is further away and you have not kept the toequ tube the diff the chassis will need to be stronger.

Try a longer torque tube the motor.
I also think the motor can go closer to the diff it just need extra steel around it so its not stressed the path around it to the ball joint is taking all the vibrational stress. the motor could still be sitting on ruubber mounts on to the torque tube.

Sorry if my suggestions are not getting across clearly.
I liked the tough link to the diff as you didn't need CV joints.

If the pivot fulcrum is in line with the brushes they will have minimal movement maybe 4 inch radius from the fulcrum piviot. As there are four the upper and lower illiminated by setting the motor so brushes are at 45deg from the vertical or horizontal.

As there isn't much suspension travel causing only small angular movement even when the motor is closer to the diff, using side rubber mounts that allow for the angle change at high and low suspension travel could be acceptable. Very much like a old long mounted ICE car motor side mounts.


Keep at it.

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Post by Electrocycle »

I think you should see how an existing hard tail trike rides and decide if it's going to be ok.
Not having rear suspension will makes things a lot simpler, as long as the ride will be acceptable. I think suspension is likely to introduce as many stability issues as it will solve (although it's easier to tweak settings than a solid rear end)

I would use a normal FWD car engine / gearbox mount on the front of the motor rather than a towball style mount. They can take plenty of motion and are easily available off the shelf.
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Post by Electrocycle »

depending on where you put the trailing arms for the diff, and how much travel it has, the for/aft movement shouldn't be too far.
Most engine mounts will let you have at least 15mm which I think would be plenty.

I think the less vibration the motor experiences the better, but it should be ok.
The tyres will soften the vibration a lot anyway.

Again I think it would be good to have a ride of an existing trike to see what it's really like.
You could even do some data logging and see how bad it really is (iphone app maybe?)

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Post by 7circle »

7circle wrote: Why not use trailing arms to locate the wheel axle.
If they are hinged near the front(terminal box end) of the motor the the vibration in the motor will be dramatically reduced. And bonus, this is the end with the brushes.

As these motors already have big issues with internal structure when trying to spin to high revs, I can't see how having them vibrate by following the road contours when your going over 100k's is going to allow them to last.

Having the trailing arm hinged up near the front of the motor will also reduce
Image

[Edit Okay my sketch they might buckle with that thruster]


This was my earlier post idea.

But the aluminum cast front bearing housing on the diff could use longer bolts and be used for the watts link on the frnt and also the torque tube mounting, if its strong enough.

I've seen some high performance EV's with heafty torque tubes out of aluminum TIG welded etc.

That oil filler cap was huge.
Image

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Post by 7circle »

Most of the strength in the torque tube is between the diff housing and the output end of the motor mointing plate. The rest of the structure is just to support it.

I'm unsure of your drawing. You could b eshowing a small diameter torque tube as I am suggesting. I thought it could just be a coincidence.
Image
Can you show a bottom view of this layout and describe in detail what the sub section are doing. You could show it in transparent mode so you can see into the the CAD model.

To me this setup would vibrate the heck out of the motor. I wonder how it went.
Image

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Post by 7circle »

Image

This wouldn't spin the front end.

With some spring return like you suggested it could give you tilting.
The axis of rotation may need to be off horizontal though.
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Post by Carv'n Marv'n »

...just checking my rolling tables for RHS (for your u-shaped member)...

25x25x3 - min inside radius 340mm (this is probably too small for application)
30x30x2.5 - min inside radius 450mm.

probably best to do it out of CHS - 32mm bore tube will enable bends of 90mm or 140mm C/L radius.

http://uneek.com.au/bending/tube_and_pipe_bending.html

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