Woody's 1963 Ford Cortina

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T1 Terry
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Post by T1 Terry » Fri, 26 Nov 2010, 21:25

I think you've missed something in the whole going green concept there Woody Image

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woody
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Post by woody » Tue, 30 Nov 2010, 18:25

A box, which I assume contains my motor, has arrived!
Planned EV: '63 Cortina using AC and LiFePO4 Battery Pack

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Post by Johny » Tue, 30 Nov 2010, 18:28

Open it - open it! Image

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Post by woody » Tue, 30 Nov 2010, 18:40

Unfortunately, where it has arrived (which has a loading dock) and where I am (which doesn't) are two different places, separated by 20km, and I have no car with me :-( So possibly later in the week...
Planned EV: '63 Cortina using AC and LiFePO4 Battery Pack

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Post by Richo » Tue, 30 Nov 2010, 20:46

Sooo close yet so far Image

Can't you complain of stomach cramps run out the door hail a taxi and go for it Image
So the short answer is NO but the long answer is YES.
Help prevent road rage - get outta my way!

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woody
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Post by woody » Fri, 03 Dec 2010, 16:15

Johny wrote: Open it - open it! Image
Plate looks right:

Serial No ends in 00001

110 DD 50 1445 18,50 132,50 0,82
220 D 50 1445 18,50 66.30 0,82
92,00 kg

Image

12 Terminals as requested!

Image

The shaft turns. That's all I did at midnight :-/
Planned EV: '63 Cortina using AC and LiFePO4 Battery Pack

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Post by Johny » Fri, 03 Dec 2010, 16:45

It's not enough - I want more! Like which end of the motor is the terminal box on (OK I could look up the motor), but that's not the point. Is it at home now?

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woody
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Post by woody » Fri, 03 Dec 2010, 17:10

The terminal box is at the drive end. It's quite big (~ 200mm square), but low and flat. In the photo above you can see the flange mount and some shine reflecting from the shaft.

It's at home, so I'll take more piccis with a proper camera and measurements on the weekend. The above were taken with a camera phone using a keychain legoman torch for light :-(

The fan cover is plastic, there is no shaft beyond the cover.

The box is cardboard.

That's all I know.
Planned EV: '63 Cortina using AC and LiFePO4 Battery Pack

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Post by woody » Sun, 05 Dec 2010, 04:44

woody wrote: The terminal box is at the drive end. It's quite big (~ 200mm square), but low and flat.
Make that 180mm square:
Image
Protruding 35mm above the flange
Image
Extending 80-260mm from the drive end, the highest part being 105x105mm
Image
The aluminium stator is 470mm long, the drive end on a flange about 320mm diameter, the fan end a 300mm square with 60mm right isoceles triangles cut from the corners.
Image
A much better shot of the Plate:
Image
And dialectric and functional tests from a month ago.
Image
Made in Spain.
Planned EV: '63 Cortina using AC and LiFePO4 Battery Pack

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woody
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Post by woody » Sun, 05 Dec 2010, 05:49

Image
12 Lead lets you wire series or parallel and star or delta:
Image
So I can wire for 110, 190, 220, 380V AC @ 50Hz

The terminals in the photo are:

W1 V1 Y1
W5 V5 Y5

W2 V2 Y2
W6 V6 Y6

links are included for:

1-5 and 2-6 for parallel, 5-2 for series


Power to W1 V1 Y1

Short W6 V6 Y6 for Star
Connect W1-V6, V1-Y6, Y1-W6 for delta

I could possibly join 2-6 for dahlander 2 pole series or 1-6 + 2-5 for dahlander 2 pole parallel, but I'm pretty sure that won't be as efficent and may not work at all depending on how the stator is wired.
Planned EV: '63 Cortina using AC and LiFePO4 Battery Pack

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Post by woody » Sun, 05 Dec 2010, 06:02

Apparently, the done thing with 12 terminal motors is to move the stator wires about so you can just use copper links for all jumpers...
Planned EV: '63 Cortina using AC and LiFePO4 Battery Pack

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Post by woody » Thu, 09 Dec 2010, 15:53

ebay provided an unused 11kW VFD - Telemecanique / Square D Altivar 18 for $300 including postage.

This will probably live in the generator trailer eventually, but it's big enough for testing. So I have the main parts for the generator trailer now:

11kw 2 pole 132 frame
Kent 1200cc motor (Currently driving the cortina around)
VFD
Trailer

Still need a precharge for the VFD.
Planned EV: '63 Cortina using AC and LiFePO4 Battery Pack

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Post by Johny » Thu, 09 Dec 2010, 16:00

Is the VFD a ATV18D16N4?

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Post by Johny » Thu, 09 Dec 2010, 16:10

woody wrote:Still need a precharge for the VFD.
From this paragraph:

"When commanding the power by line contactor, avoid frequently opening and
closing the line contactor which could cause premature failure of the filtering
capacitors and precharge resistor. Use inputs LI1 to LI4 to command the drive.
Limit operations of the line contactor to less than once per minute."

I get the impression that a precharge resistor is built into the drive.

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Post by woody » Thu, 09 Dec 2010, 16:13

yep. ebay listing has everything I know.
Planned EV: '63 Cortina using AC and LiFePO4 Battery Pack

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Post by woody » Thu, 09 Dec 2010, 16:32

Johny wrote:
woody wrote:Still need a precharge for the VFD.
From this paragraph:

"When commanding the power by line contactor, avoid frequently opening and
closing the line contactor which could cause premature failure of the filtering
capacitors and precharge resistor. Use inputs LI1 to LI4 to command the drive.
Limit operations of the line contactor to less than once per minute."

I get the impression that a precharge resistor is built into the drive.
I haven't had a good look inside yet. It's still under my desk at work.

PA + PC seem to be the DC bus. The precharge may be between the rectifier/scr/whatever and the bus, not between the bus and the terminals. I'll bring it to the Sydney AEVA meeting and some engineers will look at it and tell me without me asking :-)
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Post by EV2Go » Thu, 09 Dec 2010, 17:23

The 12 terminals make sense now the Wye / Star option is the AC eqivilant of my 6 terminals for Series / Parallel.

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Post by woody » Sat, 11 Dec 2010, 19:37

Johny wrote: I get the impression that a precharge resistor is built into the drive.
Taking the covers off to have a look...
Image
Image
Image
Image
Image

Having a look around it kind of looks like this circuit:
Image

So I'd say that there's a precharge circuit built in, and it's in the right spot.

They've gunked up the (unlabeled) P0 and PC screws, so I need to ungunk them, but that should be easier than my own precharge circuit.
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Post by Johny » Sun, 12 Dec 2010, 01:52

Good. Nice simple precharge system that says "please use me with batteries". Why'd they go and gunk up the DC Bus connections. B*&^&^%ds.

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Post by 7circle » Tue, 14 Dec 2010, 06:27

Have you looked at the Bridge from the mains.

Some of them have SCR's that allow pre-charge from the AC Mians but might not be helpfull running from DC.

They could be replaced with an IGBT block and use the signal that normall y goes the the SCR gate drivers to enable Soft inverter PWM to the IGBT block.

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Post by woody » Tue, 14 Dec 2010, 22:06

7circle wrote: Have you looked at the Bridge from the mains.

Some of them have SCR's that allow pre-charge from the AC Mians but might not be helpfull running from DC.

They could be replaced with an IGBT block and use the signal that normall y goes the the SCR gate drivers to enable Soft inverter PWM to the IGBT block.
Not sure what I'm looking for, but here's an image I forgot to attach above

Image
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Post by Johny » Tue, 14 Dec 2010, 22:11

7circle wrote: Have you looked at the Bridge from the mains.

Some of them have SCR's that allow pre-charge from the AC Mians but might not be helpfull running from DC.

They could be replaced with an IGBT block and use the signal that normall y goes the the SCR gate drivers to enable Soft inverter PWM to the IGBT block.
He doesn't have any SCRs. This unit just uses a resistor and relay bypass when voltage has reached a specific value. No problem.

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Post by johnfriartuck » Mon, 10 Jan 2011, 15:14

hi not wanting to interfere but isnt it kinda defeating the object to run the old engine to power the new one, if your gonna tow a trailer bhind you why not replace the axle with a live axle out of say a cortina(just an example) and use the diff to power the generator as its being pulled along (easy to set up)and charge a spare set of batteries in the trailer then just switch em over every time you need to, im not an electrician tho so it mite be a dumb idea(there always seems to be some reason why things cant be done) just imagine, if its practical, setting up more than one 240v gennie to run off the diff,dont laugh too hard dont want anyone busting anything

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Post by EV2Go » Mon, 10 Jan 2011, 15:45

One tiny problem JFT a little thing called friction, unfortunately you consume far more energy generating the power than you would get from it.

Sorry no free lunches, the energy has to come from a source other than the vehicle. i.e solar, can't even use a wind turbine while driving same loss in making the power.

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Post by woody » Mon, 10 Jan 2011, 17:51

Hi & Welcome!
johnfriartuck wrote: hi not wanting to interfere but isnt it kinda defeating the object to run the old engine to power the new one
Yes, a bit. It kind of turns my EV into a hybrid with a very heavy + long continuously variable transmission. But I only want the trailer for:
1) The odd long trip by me or other EVers
2) Keeping my old engine in working order
3) Fast charging?
if your gonna tow a trailer bhind you why not replace the axle with a live axle out of say a cortina(just an example) and use the diff to power the generator as its being pulled along (easy to set up)and charge a spare set of batteries in the trailer then just switch em over every time you need to, im not an electrician tho so it mite be a dumb idea(there always seems to be some reason why things cant be done) just imagine, if its practical, setting up more than one 240v gennie to run off the diff,dont laugh too hard dont want anyone busting anything
Any energy I'd pull from a trailer like this would take extra energy and then some from the car batteries - no free lunches I'm afraid.

When I started reading I thought you were going to suggest something like this but I don't think the Australian authorities would like it much.
Planned EV: '63 Cortina using AC and LiFePO4 Battery Pack

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