I have been asked to do a conversion on a 1988 Honda Prelude. The owner of the vehicle contacted the AEVA and asked around, and while many people reasonably suggested she spend her money on a used Leaf, she was adamant that she wanted to convert her car to electric, and cost (although significant) was not a major barrier. So good on her I say! I've enlisted the help of Matt Lacey because there is no way this is a one-person job, even with a generous timeline. With the owner's permission I will start a build log, but this might be a good spot for the technical discussion about certain aspects of the build. If it rapidly turns into the build log, we can move it to Members Machines forum I guess. So the project:
1988 Honda Prelude (yes the one with mechanical 4-wheel steering). It's in reasonably good condition, but has had several panel jobs done over it's life. The owner has had the vehicle from 40,000 km - 26 years, hence the emotional attachment and desire to convert. Perfectly irrational - that's why we do it hey?

We've sourced a Greatland motor and controller from EV-Power, so 30 kW continuous and 60 kW peak. We will keep the gearbox out of convenience, and the clutch to make changes smoother. This motor-drive package will accept up to 400 V DC, so the battery will be a 96s Li-ion pack.
Battery - as space is constrained, we will be using some rather energy dense cells. I'm putting the battery pack together using 7000 mAh pouch cells which will be liquid cooled - more on that later. But 25 kWh and 110 kg worth of cells is pretty good going. The liquid cooling will be a product I intend on developing for future applications as well, and will call for some interesting control features. It will go where the fuel tank currently sits (and somehow straddle the 4-wheel steering rod)
Like the battery on Voltron, it will be completely self-contained with nothing coming out of the sealed enclosure but coolant lines, HV lines, and a low-voltage input connector with all the BMS and contactor supplies. So I have started to draw up the main traction circuit and I'm wondering if putting a contactor on the negative is worth the trouble. Seems all production EVs do it, so it might be worth it?
Drawings to come...