AEVA Forums

Josephs is in Perth (high mileage, but has a recent new battery). I think there are others too

I’m not sure how you get great economy in a hybrid if you spend most of your time on long country driving (using the petrol engine) such as we do. By using an atkins cycle engine instead of an Otto. Atkins cycle is significantly more efficient, but has far lower peak power. Most of the fuel economy...

Even real caps dry out after 10 - 15 years. Ceramics might get to 40 years, but they're far from energy dense

Even with LTO cells, it will be a long time before any capacity loss is noticed.

Thundersky once put out a spec sheet for 600Ah lithium sulfur cells that weighed the same as current generation 200Ah lifepo4 cells. This was at least 6 years ago. They must not have got them to work, as it still has yet to enter production. It's the same old thing, until mere mortals can buy a batt...

Was this across the road from the aldi? The same place with the solar on trackers ?

But the three main issues for me in a static environment in the subtropics are cyclical degradation, heat derating and fire risk. So, as a thought experiment, what is the expected percentage deterioration for the various lithium chemistries when operating daily charge/discharge and operating in a 2...

My lifepo4 batteries turn 10 this year, still in daily use. Getting to 10 years isn't so hard now.

OP - compared to cost of a super cap, have you considered having a small buffer battery instead? 100Ah at 48v would cover it

The car should be interrupting the charge before the contactor opens. Contactors don't last long when switching under load

This link worked for me: https://chuffed.org/project/evhwy

where are you located Pete?
Best bet at the moment would be a 3.3kw TC Charger. They fit in place of the original.

Downside it ends up being around $1k, and you have to slow it down when not using a 15A powerpoint

With the reduced mass, you could go a step further and have a resettable crumple zone.

What if the crumple zones are all internal? That way you only have to slow the deceleration of the passenger compartment rather than the whole vehicle.

Hi All, I came across this in my travels through gumtree: https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/melville/mechanics-garages/free-labour-hybrid-and-ev-servicing/1221073501 Not that there's much to service on an EV, things like brakes and fluid do eventually need to be checked (maybe every second year) There...

https://youtu.be/GERbQs1k9ic

That's the link to the conversion video

Couldn't just synchronise the gen set to the inverter and have it direct online?

It should work, though I wonder how the inverter will be with the ripple.

Only one way to find out

So you are telling me that the GCI works fine with source impedances lower than PVs ? I don't want to find out the hard way. All the ones I have tried have worked Make sure to pre-charge before connecting though how big a GCI are you thinking of? I would just use a cheap second hand one thats no lo...

What sort of DC voltages did you use ? I expect running to DC input current limit is one way of controlling things. I have used 140vdc and 320vdc you could use a modern GCI that supports export limiting, as another way of controlling things That would facilitate the use of a modest sized standalone...

It's worked every time I have tried connecting a battery to a normal grid tie inverter

The inverter starts at open circuit and just ramps up input current till it either finds MPPT or runs into it's current limit

above 45 cells you get arcing at the brushes (ends up being around 130v) Some motor controllers allow you to set a motor voltage limit, allowing you to use a higher voltage pack max rpm is still a mechanical limit, starting at around 5500rpm when cold and falling when hot (the banding weakens with t...

seems legit

what about a second aircon compressor and condensor?

It will be a trail and error thing I suspect

having said that, this is a low voltage high rpm motor.
Is the 6500rpm is just the max speed, not nominal speed at 48v and 216A?

is the motor series wound?

If not series wound, you are wasting your time trying to go higher voltage

a smart pre-charger that only closes the master contactor when the voltage gets within a pre-determined level would also prevent welding situations where say the dc-dc is drawing more than normal on start up.
Fixed time pre-charging doesn't guarantee pre-charge unless everything is okay