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a smart pre-charger that only closes the master contactor when the voltage gets within a pre-determined level would also prevent welding situations where say the dc-dc is drawing more than normal on start up.
Fixed time pre-charging doesn't guarantee pre-charge unless everything is okay

Hence i need a 0.5 second delay between the master precharge relay and the master contactor closing, Is 0.5 seconds enough? I use a 60W light bulb for manual pre-charging a Vectrix, and 0.5 seconds is borderline in that application. that's with ceramic caps with nearly no capacitance too, although ...

I had a look through the stock cupboard and unfortunately we only have a 24v contactor with the aux leads. Maybe a voltage booster board to power the contactor if you system is all 12v? I wonder if the hold voltage is 12v or below if so, a cap and a double pole relay could be built cheaply and reli...

So, if you intended to keep the EV beyond the 10yr life expectancy of the X pack, the Z pack would be the better choice because the range was better as well as the total expected service life. That's the strategy I'm going for with the Zoe likely that's also the strategy the major manufacturers are...

I wonder what the continuous draw would be from keeping everything powered up all the time

Richo wrote: ↑

Wed, 30 Oct 2019, 13:04

Compressed air...

If the energy surplus were in winter, that would work out pretty well. Get heat in winter when storing and cold in summer when releasing.

I still had 5 bars of battery left at the time (like >138V?) and the light came on at the bottom of the hill after coasting down, before the significant climb back up the other side. Where would the low voltage come from if the bike had been essentially at idle for >1min? Where the charger is prese...

oh, maintenance light usually means a glitch in the CAN bus, or even the motor position sensor for that sort of thing, unless something stops working, don't worry about it Error codes aren't stored anywhere. If you're keen to find out what the error is, the only way is to ride around with a laptop c...

The manual says that fault codes appear in the odometer, anything there when it plays up? it depends lots on which version of firmware is loaded. The early versions gave you very little indication of what the actual fault was red battery light on its own usually means the motor controller is runnin...

likely the best answer is we won't know until someone tries it.
There may be a setting to run straight v/hz

It would be worth contacting kelly controls and asking

Thanks Terry, that looks to be the way to go Yesterday I got up on the roof and installed my plugin diodes (20A silicon diode internally) I heat soak tested one at 4.5A continuous for 12hrs (at 0.65v drop, worked out 3 W), and it didn't seem heat up any more than it did in the first hour. Though thi...

the 2 seat pipstrel uses about the same amount of energy as a nissan leaf.

to be honest I really want to learn to fly, just so that I can fly down south on electricity, and not have to be bored in a car.

It’s strange that we are obsessed with cars that use much more energy as a house full of people. To be fair, cars have always used more energy than a house, they were just powered differently Though most of the energy used in a house is embodied in nature, rather than used at the house. https://the...

Did Renault tell what the cause of the charging impossible message was?

so what happens when you charge with positioning lights on only?

when you go to charge normally, what happens when the battery reaches full before the car's fuel gauge?
Does the gauge reset to full? or does an error get thrown?

reviving an old thread here, but what blocking diodes do you guys use? on my setup I have 4s5p 175W 36Vmp, 5.5Amp setup. I had a 10A10 blocking diode on each string as I was direct connecting to a 144v nominal battery 10A10 diodes are normal silicon units, so 0.7v or 0.8v drop. At 5A, they're gettin...

Zoe R motor has a spare 400 V connector in the back where you can connect solar pannels directly to the battery , no inverters :) But you have to be careful, the car must be on or the positioning lights must be on, so that the car will not go to "sleep" and diskonnect's the main contactor, if that ...

What voltage range do you need? Single cells, or for a whole pack?

An encoder is only needed it you want fine torque control. On a tractor you could probably get away with either speed control only, or course torque control that running open loop without an encoder would offer

its a shame we got the earlier AZE0 leafs in Australia, rather than the ZE0 units
I wonder how far along the NZ guys are at using our older versions

Mik Krell on the gold coast still has his, though I don't think he rides it anymore (dead nimh and other projects)

Do you feel up to a battery swap boars?

Sorry why couldn't an industrial motor controller/inverter be used? couldn't one be be tricked into outputting 240Vac 50Hz. it would need an output inductor (field windings off an old induction motor maybe?), and also likely a minimum load it would be interesting to try out I have thought about usi...

so this arrived in my inbox this morning:
https://e-station.com.au/dynamic_load_balancing/

so that's at least one commercial plug and play solution for having way more charging station capacity than you have power supply capacity

oops, quite right, there are a few cars that have higher single phase current limts so you could ask for 7.3 A say, and maybe get 7.28 A or 7.41 A due to tolerances in the components, measurement inaccuracies, and so on. I saw this on my zoe the other day when I was doing the charge testing. phase c...

the standard has 3A steps, between 6A and 32A, though I suspect most cars resolution is down to 1A or lower

a few members have at home stations that track solar use, so it's likely very granular indeed