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Each cell is 1.8kg and I'm going to be using 78 cells (26s3p) so 140kg. It'll be split into 2 packs of 70kg along each side of the car

I've been saved. I tried changing the batteries, no change. Pulled them apart. Corrosion on the battery holder. Woooo hoo, it wasn't me. Cleaned up chipper.

Yeah she knows, she discovered that they were broken, I tested them after I finish and they were working, I stayed within the weight limit and they were still working afterwards. That's my defence. Apparently the argument "maybe you broke them" was not the correct answer. :? In terms of the weight d...

So I'm in trouble, I've hit a really major trauma. And I don't know what to do about it. It all started at the beginning of the build when I weighed the moke. I ran an old set of mechanical bathroom scales under each corner of the moke to work out its weight. I was super proud of not having to take ...

Oooo. Congratulations. The best part about converting a moke is they have no features, so you don't have to worry about making them all work :lol: I was lucky when I bought my because the guy I bought it off was a boiler maker and had cut all the rust out so I've never had to deal with the copious a...

To test it, can I just put the 67.2volt charger between the first and the second last wires and ensure the others are appropriate sub divisions for each cell? No, you won't get any readings like that, the bms only draws power from individual cells when over a certain voltage. It won't have any volt...

Realistically even if it is a 17s, as jonescg said just tie the last wires together after you work your way up the board. It would just mean that the top/last cell would balance at twice the rate of the rest of the pack, so it would get in line faster (not a bad thing) One possible issue is if you u...

jonescg wrote: ↑

Tue, 07 May 2019, 13:31

These cheap BMS units also tend to draw power from the first two cells, so if left for a while they can unbalance the pack in short order.

Thats quite a design flaw, especially with that small 60ma balance current it'll take a while to level out any significant difference in Soc.

IMG_20190507_123920.jpg I found this in an old(1992) tune up manual at work, confirms your view. I had a look at all the tyres in the workshop and they all had radial written on the side but no directional arrows So I have no idea, maybe the manual is out of date and they used to play it safe. Had ...

I'm an auto electrician, but we do servicing as well. So I'm not a tyre expert but I do work in the trade. As far as I know there hasn't been any great leaps and bound in tyre tech however asymmetrical tyres are probably more common than they used to be, but that goes against your experience Most re...

Yes, unidirectional and asymmetrical tyres go one way/ work better in one way but the majority of tyres I see are standard rubber, which doesn't care. If you read through that link it even says to rotate across the car unless the wheels are asymmetrical /unidirectional. As in they are the exception ...

Tyres are never moved from one side to the other as they have a direction of rotation. Thats not true, most tyres aren't directional. Generally speaking, good tyres may have a direction of rotation for better efficiency at getting rid of water and less road noise etc Cheap tyres don't care how they...

Yes it's been sold

$2500 including freight (how expensive is it to drive a truck really, crikey) so even with buying the sirion for its pack and then not having the heart to strip it and letting it become my daily, im still under budget. Your cells would have been nice but overkill for my build and I'd already ditched...

https://youtu.be/6RhtiPefVzM



[ Edited Coulomb: added [tube] tags. ]

Imiev

Also I had trouble with one rear wheel turning most of a revolution then locking up, keep pushing and it would free up and then lock in another spot
I pulled the wheel off and think I found part of the trauma...

After a bit of a delay sourcing a battery pack I arrived home today with 80 x 50ah ncm cells IMG_20190427_170727.jpg Now I have them I can plan how to shove them in the car. The plan is to put them in the boxes that run down the sides. That is where the fuel tank amd 12v battery were located. Both o...

The car seems awfully Chinese. Not that it's necessary bad, they have a bucket load of EVs there. I'm guessing it's (and always will be) Chinese built and flat packed to Australia where it's "assembled" so its Australian made...ish

Looking through the build I'm thinking what you need is a liquid battery pack that can just be poured into the car to fill all the nooks and crannies

francisco.shi wrote: ↑

Sat, 13 Apr 2019, 19:59

Also if I add all the number of cells in the spaces you have listed I only get 186 cells.

There are more cells in the picture /link.
That list appears to only have the larger spaces

What he said^

But that being said the diodes really shouldn't be carrying any real load, they should only be used as logic control for relays/contactors etc

Could try this site https://www.avnet.com/wps/portal/us/resources/technical-articles/article/markets/automotive%20and%20transportation/technologies-components-designing-electric-vehicles/ It doesn't have too much on ancillaries but it goes pretty far into how the main components works. Probably too ...

I would say parallel would be best, or after if you really have to be in series. I think that once the refrigerant has gone through the heat exchanger it won't have anything left to give for the poor people in the car. The compressor/condenser should cope fine with the extra load from a parallel sys...

That will work but the a/c will only work with the key on. If you want it to cool while charging etc it will have to change. Also the system will trip out on low temp really quickly if the blower fan isn't going (evaporator will turn to a block of ice) and you won't get good cooling on your pack. Ma...