AEVA Forums

Ok great thanks, will look into NCM as a possible chemistry

Any recommendations? I went with Headway’s because LiFePO4 are meant to be safe and they’re easy to assemble.

Thanks! Having lots of fun. Still things to sort out but at least I can have a bit of fun in between fixing/improving things. My biggest constraint is range which at the moment is only 25km. The 10Ah cells I bought on eBay and the 15Ah cells I got second hand. I’m not even sure if the 10Ah cells are...

OK so it's been a while, again! The bike has now been registered for about 3 weeks and I'm having a lot of fun on it. Now that I'm getting to do longer rides, I'm finding new issues that I'll need to work through but overall I'm really happy with the way it's turned out. Will now start saving up for...

jonescg wrote: ↑

Sun, 26 Jan 2020, 11:22

Well, what's the quarter mile time?

No idea ... we were using the braking end of the track

After the last lot of testing there was a fair bit of work to do getting ready for brake testing and inspection. Replace dead battery cells, wire in the emergency cutoff switch, replace oil in forks and add spacers, etc so after all that the bike pretty much looks the same but a lot has happened! La...

Well done! Very smooth and quiet. Did you end up sealing the battery pack with silicone or something? You must be stoked :) Yes very happy with the way it all went except that I need to replace one of the cell groups so once I’ve got the replacement cells I’ll rebuild the pack (again!) with silicon...

OK it’s been a while again so there are a few updates. The EV Expo was great to be part of. Lots of interesting conversations with people and great to see all the other conversions people have done. I didn’t quite manage to get it running for the show but it was all together at least. It didn’t take...

Looking for a few 15ah and 10ah cells to replace some bad ones. Does anyone have any they’re willing to part with?

Thanks!

Thanks, looking forward to working out speed and range too. This will be my commuter to work so I don’t need it to go super fast, as long as the acceleration is good and I can get around comfortably without worrying about the range it should be good. I’m hoping the 6kW motor will be enough as I was ...

The cables that comes out of my hub motor have shielding around them and someone recently said I should ground the shielding to the bike frame. Is this correct and are there any tricks to doing this?

Thanks @coulomb, I’m using the 72V Satiator charger from Grin Technologies so will check with them if this will be an issue or not. Also need to consider what happens when a cell hits HVC and then drops down as I don’t think the BMS has a latching relay. More food for thought

I'm trying to get the bike ready to show at EV Expo in Sydney this weekend so got some more work done yesterday. Made a plate to mount a waterproof box to hold things like 12V battery, contactor, fuse and other bits and pieces. Most of the high voltage stuff is in and wired up so its mostly the 12V ...

The certifying engineer suggested I use something to isolate vibration from the frame to the batteries so I'm using a couple of sway bar bushes that the original engine mounting bolts will go through to hold the box.

OK great ... I might still have some halogens from when we switched them out for LEDs

Made some more progress over the last week or two Added BMS leads Installed rear brake caliper bracket Finished the bracket on the back of the battery pack and installed it Temporary plate to hold the controller. Still working out where this will go and how to keep it cool. IMG_7724.JPG IMG_7720.JPG...

So I guess the charger realises the pack is no longer connected and stops charging? The charger I have doesn’t come with an enable line so I’m planning on using a relay that has 12V DC on one side and 240V AC on the other to turn off the charger if any cell goes too high. Can you see any issues with...

I meant this but on closer inspection it looks like it might just be a connector or where the wires go into the controller

Nice Tetris skills!

On the left around the smaller cables is a thingy like those ferrite beads on monitor cables. Is that to stop EMI from the controller interfering with something? What’s it around?

Awesome thanks everyone for the replies. Looks like I need to go out an buy a bar heater ... we don’t have one because they’re not energy efficient!

You can run most resistive AC loads on DC, and universal motors are happy on DC too, they just spin slower. So set up a power board and start plugging AC loads in until you get to your desired currents. Ok so simple things like a toaster, kettle etc will run fine on DC? I picked up a cheap IR therm...

francisco.shi wrote: ↑

Wed, 16 Oct 2019, 03:21

How much did it cost to make the part from 3Dhubs and how long did it take?

It would have been around $320 but I paid extra to get it done quickly so ended up being $370 and took 2 weeks.

Doh! At least it wasn’t too expensive

A negative contactor is just a contactor on the negative (0v) line out of the pack. The idea being it allows you to isolate both positive and negative outputs and it's safe to touch either terminal and there are no hazardous voltages without the system being powered up. In terms of isolating the ch...