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Thanks, looking forward to working out speed and range too. This will be my commuter to work so I don’t need it to go super fast, as long as the acceleration is good and I can get around comfortably without worrying about the range it should be good. I’m hoping the 6kW motor will be enough as I was ...

The cables that comes out of my hub motor have shielding around them and someone recently said I should ground the shielding to the bike frame. Is this correct and are there any tricks to doing this?

Thanks @coulomb, I’m using the 72V Satiator charger from Grin Technologies so will check with them if this will be an issue or not. Also need to consider what happens when a cell hits HVC and then drops down as I don’t think the BMS has a latching relay. More food for thought

I'm trying to get the bike ready to show at EV Expo in Sydney this weekend so got some more work done yesterday. Made a plate to mount a waterproof box to hold things like 12V battery, contactor, fuse and other bits and pieces. Most of the high voltage stuff is in and wired up so its mostly the 12V ...

The certifying engineer suggested I use something to isolate vibration from the frame to the batteries so I'm using a couple of sway bar bushes that the original engine mounting bolts will go through to hold the box.

OK great ... I might still have some halogens from when we switched them out for LEDs

Made some more progress over the last week or two Added BMS leads Installed rear brake caliper bracket Finished the bracket on the back of the battery pack and installed it Temporary plate to hold the controller. Still working out where this will go and how to keep it cool. IMG_7724.JPG IMG_7720.JPG...

So I guess the charger realises the pack is no longer connected and stops charging? The charger I have doesn’t come with an enable line so I’m planning on using a relay that has 12V DC on one side and 240V AC on the other to turn off the charger if any cell goes too high. Can you see any issues with...

I meant this but on closer inspection it looks like it might just be a connector or where the wires go into the controller

Nice Tetris skills!

On the left around the smaller cables is a thingy like those ferrite beads on monitor cables. Is that to stop EMI from the controller interfering with something? What’s it around?

Awesome thanks everyone for the replies. Looks like I need to go out an buy a bar heater ... we don’t have one because they’re not energy efficient!

You can run most resistive AC loads on DC, and universal motors are happy on DC too, they just spin slower. So set up a power board and start plugging AC loads in until you get to your desired currents. Ok so simple things like a toaster, kettle etc will run fine on DC? I picked up a cheap IR therm...

francisco.shi wrote: ↑

Wed, 16 Oct 2019, 03:21

How much did it cost to make the part from 3Dhubs and how long did it take?

It would have been around $320 but I paid extra to get it done quickly so ended up being $370 and took 2 weeks.

Doh! At least it wasn’t too expensive

A negative contactor is just a contactor on the negative (0v) line out of the pack. The idea being it allows you to isolate both positive and negative outputs and it's safe to touch either terminal and there are no hazardous voltages without the system being powered up. In terms of isolating the ch...

I've almost finished building my traction pack and wanted to see how others test them before using them. I've seen people using elements in a bucket of water or a series of light bulbs etc but still not sure what's the best thing to do and exactly what to look out for. Also seen people using IR ther...

I know this thread is old but very nice looking pack!!!

I like how the Anderson connectors are mounted against the box. I'm rethinking how to do mine now.

Also what's a negative contactor and what did you mean about it serving as an isolation point for the charge circuit?

Also just got the rear brake bracket back from 3DHubs ... super impressed with the part and can't wait to put it into the bike!

brendon_m wrote: ↑

Tue, 15 Oct 2019, 17:27

I used this
https://au.element14.com/mean-well/ddr- ... dp/3002980

Its 67.2v to 154v

That's looks great. Will keep it in mind if mine doesn't work out!

I actually ordered this one from AliExpress https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32888136080.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.2e724c4dH6UCry I'm using 4 x 10ah Headway cells as my 12V battery so I'm assuming that handles most of the load and the converter just helps to keep the cells charged. I tried to find o...

Sorry @Richo can you explain what this means?

Richo wrote: ↑

Tue, 15 Oct 2019, 13:13

Ah I had a quick look yesterday but your main traction pack doesn't fit into the universal input AC supplies.

Richo wrote: ↑

Mon, 14 Oct 2019, 12:33

4 x headway is 12.8V nominal and 14.6V charged.
So anything from 13V-14V is ok.
Most of that would be for the headlight+brake light.

So 100-150W for a DC-DC?

Thanks, I was wondering what sort of power I should get.

Any ideas where to get a reasonably priced isolated DC-DC converter?

brendon_m wrote: ↑

Sun, 13 Oct 2019, 22:46

Most dcdc converters I've seen that say they output 12v actually output around 14v. I think they just use 12v because that's the voltage that people know.
Check the datasheet/in depth specs to be sure

Great thanks, will do

OK so I think I know the answer but just want to check so I don’t buy the wrong thing ... if I use 4 x LiFePO4 cells to power my 12V system and I want to use a DC-DC converter to keep them charged, I need a converter that outputs something higher than 12V right? I’ve seen ones that output 13.8V whic...

Thanks @Bryce good to see there are other people lobbying their local councils to try and find solutions!